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This Dynojet Kit (install)

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Got my kit right here on my desk in my office. That was quick.

I'm reading through the directions and it appears to sugggest the fuel metering screw hides behind a factory press-fit plug that needs to be drilled into, a course thread screw inserted and then pulled out. I'm sitting here thinking that the longer screw now makes sense, but am scratching my head that the factory sealed access to the original screw.

If I'm wrong about this, please tell me now. 🙂 I'm about to discomboobulate my recent $6K purchase which I use to ride to work.

You'd think the directions would be a bit more thorough.

Some of you are just loosening and tilting your carb for the required access to the different areas....how'd that work for you?

On the 3X3 side of this, the hole is cut, the CDI relocated if necessary, then the seat is installed, right? There is no fabricated screen thingy you guys are putting over the opening? I'm mostly street....like 99%.

Just looking for some encouraging words.... I do this tomorrow.

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There is a pictorial how to on the 3x3 mod and some info on rejetting at www.drz.info. Also read the FAQs that should be at the top of this forum.

If you are doing the 3x3, be sure to follow the "burned" jetting and not the jetting instructions in the kit. The DJ kit is for a stock airbox. The most important pieces of the DJ kit to you are the needle and the spring that goes above the slide. You may need to buy a pilot jet, etc. that are not in the DJ kit.

The keintech extended fuel screw is a smart move and allows you to adjust the screw without removing or loosening the carb.

Also get 4 allen head screws for the float bowl if you are going in there to change the pilot jet or the main jet. You will strip at least one of hte stock phillips screws in the process.

Most riders leave the 3x3 hole wide open, no screen.

Good luck!

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I bought:

DJ kit for the needle and slide spring

Keintech fuel screw

25-pilot

4 allen bowl screws.

It all goes in this weekend! Thanx for the reply.

How does one access the "burned jetting" info? Where is that? I haven't actually found "the" source, but know burned through his succinct replies to individual posts.

EDIT: Found burned's Dynojet FAQ page HERE.

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i recently dj'd mine per some very good instructions.... with pictures!

i had never done anything like that before, but it was no problem at all

if you want, i can email the instructions to you, just let me know

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There was a web page that had excellent instructions, step-by-step with color pics for doing the install. I think there were different versions for the job with the carb on or off the bike. The url was something like this: "http://home.comcast.net/~88cobragt/dj_carb_on_bike.htm"

If anyone knows the right url for these instructions, maybe you can post it. They were invaluable when I rejetted my S-model several months ago.

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In answer to your question, the factory screw is sealed as per EPA regs to prevent tampering. A lot of new equipment of any type that use carbureted gasoline engines are like this, like my new weed muncher for instance. Most are set up pretty lean because of the clean air laws.

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I would take the carb out of the bike if your doing it for the first time . The float bowl screws are really tight and will take a little man handeling to get them broke free. Thats the reason for the allen head screws. Also when drilling the brass plug I prefer to use a small dremmel grinding bit instead of the drill bit. The drill bit can catch and the screw is directly underneath it. If the bit catches and runs the screw all the way in , not only will it mess up the needle and possbly the threads but it could seat the needle and not want to come back out 🙂 Patience and tenderness will go along way in that neck of the woods 🙂

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Got my kit right here on my desk in my office. That was quick.

I'm reading through the directions and it appears to sugggest the fuel metering screw hides behind a factory press-fit plug that needs to be drilled into, a course thread screw inserted and then pulled out. I'm sitting here thinking that the longer screw now makes sense, but am scratching my head that the factory sealed access to the original screw.

If I'm wrong about this, please tell me now. 🙂 I'm about to discomboobulate my recent $6K purchase which I use to ride to work.

You'd think the directions would be a bit more thorough.

Some of you are just loosening and tilting your carb for the required access to the different areas....how'd that work for you?

On the 3X3 side of this, the hole is cut, the CDI relocated if necessary, then the seat is installed, right? There is no fabricated screen thingy you guys are putting over the opening? I'm mostly street....like 99%.

Just looking for some encouraging words.... I do this tomorrow.

The reason the fuel screw port is plugged is because they don't want guys like us tinkering with the setting. This little deal can probably be traced back to emission laws and the EPA. Careful when you drill it out 'cause it's easy to go too far and the Kientech extended fuel screw is kinda nice to make minor adjustments. The 3x3 and re-jetting will make a big difference in your SM if you do it right. Good luck 🙂

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