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questions for 2002 CRF450 clutch + engine

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OK stupid ? 1, when you put the clutch pack back together do you line up the notches on the fingers of the fibers. (I have done it bothways) which way is correct. Did you know that the 1st and last clutch plate carry a different number

(NOT the honda number), but something like this m5dm(n)-25 and the rest are 19

2, I am breaking in my new engine (rebuilt) and will use Pennzoil 10-30 for the break-in then switch to the gold top Mobil 1 synthetic. How long do you usually use. Me I use the secrets to break-in http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

3. Can you get the tightness (when you bend the links) out of a o/x-ring chain by soaking it is kerosene/diesel etc 🙂

Ian

Almost ready to ride WOO-HOO

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Don't use regular 10w30 for break-in. 10w30 is an "energy conserving" oil. Use something like 5w40, 20w50, 15w40. Brand is not that important. Once you have ran the engine hard for 30 minutes to an hour, you can change the oil to whatever you want. If you do it right, you can break an engine in on synthethic with no problems at all. However, since you really should change the oil right after break in, it does not make senses to run expensive synthetic oil and dump it after an hour. And break it in the "hard" way, just like the website you linked. 🙂

I don't think the notches matter...you are using OEM clutch plates?

As far as the chain, it will loosen a bit with some wear/riding. If you get the new DID X-ring Pro chain, it has very little drag even when new. I use it on my 250F and felt absolutely NO power loss and the chain is almost as free moving as the stocker.

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Don't use regular 10w30 for break-in. 10w30 is an "energy conserving" oil. Use something like 5w40, 20w50, 15w40. Brand is not that important. Once you have ran the engine hard for 30 minutes to an hour, you can change the oil to whatever you want. If you do it right, you can break an engine in on synthethic with no problems at all. However, since you really should change the oil right after break in, it does not make senses to run expensive synthetic oil and dump it after an hour. And break it in the "hard" way, just like the website you linked. 🙂

I don't think the notches matter...you are using OEM clutch plates?

As far as the chain, it will loosen a bit with some wear/riding. If you get the new DID X-ring Pro chain, it has very little drag even when new. I use it on my 250F and felt absolutely NO power loss and the chain is almost as free moving as the stocker.

I looked at the back of many oils and most said "energy conserving", however the back of the pennzoil (high mileage) has NO such listing in the bottom of the circle on the back. I says API service SL SAE 10-30. However I do have a gallon of DELO 400 in the garage, would that be better. I am using OEM clutch plates and fibers with a rekluse clutch (I'll use the "new" Mobil 1 GOLD-top in the tranny side.) I have never used a synthetic oil for a break-in as it arrests the break-in process between the rings and cylinder prematurely, and may never properly seat them. I have always used "dino" oil and looking at my pistons I have had EXCELLENT results with the process I use. NO burnt oil on the cylinder head or blow by noted. My chain is kind of hard to straighten out, I'm hoping this is because the bike has been sitting for a year and not ridden.

Thanks for info and help,

Ian 🙂:D

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It must be the "high mileage" formula that does not contain the friction modifiers present in energy conserving oil...weird, I did not know pennzoil had a 10w30 like that...

Synthetic CAN work well breaking in an engine...that is a myth that the rings will not seat properly. Synthetic oil in itself is NOT more slippery than dino oils...it's the additive package than can cause issues. I have broken in my engines on the 450 and the 250 using Mobil-1 red cap 15w50. Same results, no oil burning, no smoking. It's the method in the madness that creates the ring seal more than the oil...

Currently I have been using Shell Rotella-T 15w40 dino oil in both sides...it has been great with the 250F so I am sticking with it for now.

I still think the Delo 400 is a better oil than the Pennzoil too...

Your bike has been sitting for a year? doh...no wonder the chain is stiff 🙂

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