Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

drz400s kouba link

Recommended Posts

hello all.. I'm the happy owner of a 2004 400s (bought as a new leftover in june of 05). i choose to lower the bike a little ( i only 5'11" ) as i do 90% of my riding in the woods and i needed surer footing that tippy toes ...

per the suggestion of a friend w/ a 2001 400s, I went w/ a drz3 kouba link (lowers the bike 1.75 inches). now here's the problem.. i don't ride that hard.. i don't do jumps and my overall style is conserative trail riding.. HOWEVER, every ride since i lowered the bike, the rear tire has smacked underside of the rear fender (at least once each ride) if i decide to bang through some quick successive whoop di dos. my friend w/ the 2001 bike, has the same drz3 link on his bike, he weighs more than me, and he can slam through the whoops w/o a problem. what's up w/ this situation ? do i need to adjust the tension of the rear shock, or am i destined to have to buy a stiffer rear spring ? if i make the rear spring stiffer, the bike will sit higher w/ me on it, (170 lb rider), and I assume I'll have to get the lower gel seat. could this be a solution.. this bike is great, but it requires some mods for sure. thanks for the input.. -Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try adjusting the compresson settings on the rear shock. There is a high speed setting and a low speed. The center adjustment is the low speed ( use a small screwdriver) and the High speed you will need a socket or wrench.

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stock the shock comes with way too much high speed damping so leave the blue nut alone or back it all the way out even. You need to re-set the race sag, by turning the spring preload. At 170 you may be able to use the stock spring but that is a big maybe. See the kouba link changes the angle and there for the leverage placed on the shock, it increases it greatly. That is the main trade off with them. Sag should be set at 90-100mm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, I have some questions for everyone. I just posted a new thred, so I might get it answered in there. Where is the blue nut you are talking about?

I just went outside and tried to find it, but I couldn't.

What is the spring pre-load and how do you adjust it?

How do you adjsut the high and low spead settings that were mentioned previous. \

Thanks CER

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a Talon lowering link on my DRZ, I am 5' 8". But I have set the race sag to 3 1/2", this has used all of the rear pre-load adjustment, and it is still to soft even for road use. I will be ordering a 6 kg spring for mine. The Talon link I have is the same length as a Kouba 1 link. It is the longer length link that is causing the problem. I have also removed 1 3/4" of foam from my standard seat, and pushed the forks up through the yokes. This is easy to do, and will make it easier to touch the ground. At your hight I would have thought that you would only need the No1 links at most.

Neil. 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Blue nut is on the right side of the bike on the upper part of the shock. At least it is blue on my klx. There is a window in your body work for it.

The shock spring preload is kind of a bugger, you need to reach in with a long punch and use a hammer to loosen the second ring so you can use the punch again to move the ring against the spring.

As I said before, IIRC burned has said in the past that stock the shock has way to much high speed compression dampening, that is why it wants to kick you in the but going through whoops. I noticed a big improvement in mine when I backed it all the way out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
As I said before, IIRC burned has said in the past that stock the shock has way to much high speed compression dampening, that is why it wants to kick you in the but going through whoops. I noticed a big improvement in mine when I backed it all the way out.

When I tried to back my adjuster out more than 1 turn (2000 DRZ S) oil started to seep out around the thread. How far out can you go without causing a problem ??

Neil.

🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

neil,

i had my link installed at a shop.. i told them to slide the front forks as far up through the tubes as poss, and they said they couldn't touch them, b/c the ignition "thing" was in the way on the handlebars.. what the heck do i know - that's why i took it there in the first place. so it sounds like you guys want tme to adjust my high speed dampening ? again .. it's gonna go to the shop for this one.. any more ideas. ? -Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No need for the shop, I put a 1/2" stack of washers (M8) between the ignition switch bracket and the H/bar clamp, used two bolts 1/2" longer than Stock (M8). You can then push the forks up another 1/2", which should give you about 5/8" total. As for the rebound & compression damping adjustment for the back and front, It is all in the hand book. For the spring pre-load adjustment you should get a Workshop Manual.

Neil. 🙂🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
When I tried to back my adjuster out more than 1 turn (2000 DRZ S) oil started to seep out around the thread. How far out can you go without causing a problem ??

Neil.

🙂

It didn't come to a stop??? Is the 00S different like the forks are? Which adjuster are we talking about here?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It didn't come to a stop??? Is the 00S different like the forks are? Which adjuster are we talking about here?

I think the shock for the 00-01 do not have a high(nut) and low speed, slotted adjuster.

just a low speed adjuster.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It didn't come to a stop??? Is the 00S different like the forks are? Which adjuster are we talking about here?

We are talking about the high speed compression adjuster on the rear, this part of the shock looks the same as the later models. I did not back the adjuster out till it stopped, as I did not want it to come right out, and lose all the oil and gas. I have no where local to re-pressurise the shock and I can't afford a new one.

Hope you can help.

Neil. 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think the shock for the 00-01 do not have a high(nut) and low speed, slotted adjuster.

just a low speed adjuster.

Wrong, the only thing missing is the rebound adjuster on the lower mounting fork. The high and low speed compression adjusters are the same as later bikes.

Neil. 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wrong, the only thing missing is the rebound adjuster on the lower mounting fork. The high and low speed compression adjusters are the same as later bikes.

Neil. 🙂

I dont know what you got in your part of the world,but here in the USA we only have the one adjustment on the early S model..

sounds like he was unscrewing the valve out of shock body,I can see how it would be easy to do with all the advice running around and having a differant shock then most are talking about 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I dont know what you got in your part of the world,but here in the USA we only have the one adjustment on the early S model..

🙂 Oops. I have been lurking enough to know Neil is from UK and bike may be different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
:D Oops. I have been lurking enough to know Neil is from UK and bike may be different.

Sorry I did not realise that the shock might vary over there.

Bloody Suzuki, why can't they just build them all the same, life would be so much easier.

So if you back your high speed adjustment out (the large nut) how far does it go before it stops. I don't want to have to deal with an oil & gas explosion

:D:D

I am waiting for a new 6 kg/cm spring at the moment, I would really like a decent new shock, but I can't afford one (£350.00 and up) So I will have to make the best of what I have.

Neil. 🙂🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.. err. i think.. I think my question kind of got lost in the massive responses about stuff i don't really even understand. see, i'm a dental student.. i ride in my free time.. i hate working on a bike.. hence - i know the guys at my local suzuki shop very well . :-) what should i do regarding my dilemma ? see very first post .. should i take off the drz3 link (lowes it 1.75 inches) and put on a drz1 or drz2 link (lowers .75 and 1.25 inches respectively) and then splurge on a gel seat to get some extra inches in my favor ? forgive my mechanical ignorance, but i can't believe lowering it 1.75 inches is that much different than lowering it 1.25 or .75 iches (doesn't the bike have about 14" of rear suspension travel stock ? old norman kouba said "you should be find so long as you keep the bikes wheels on the ground" .. to me that means no jumps.. i hoped it would mean i could still bang through whoops.. this stinks.. this bike new has already cost me more money than my original dr200 i bought used and had for 3 yrs.. darn.. - Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have no motorcycle or tire shops near by??? Over here there are several major tire chains that are able to pump nitrogen, they use it in tires because it is more stable. I'll check mine tonight and see if it can come out, IIRC it can't but I'll try 🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

According to the 01 S service manual the early s bikes do not have high speed compression adjustment. I thought it was just the forks that were different. Thanks for pointing that out to me.

On my bike the hs nut is blue and is 14mm in size. And yes I can back it out to a stop, it does not come all the way out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks guys.. err. i think.. I think my question kind of got lost in the massive responses about stuff i don't really even understand. see, i'm a dental student.. i ride in my free time.. i hate working on a bike.. hence - i know the guys at my local suzuki shop very well . :-) what should i do regarding my dilemma ? see very first post .. should i take off the drz3 link (lowes it 1.75 inches) and put on a drz1 or drz2 link (lowers .75 and 1.25 inches respectively) and then splurge on a gel seat to get some extra inches in my favor ? forgive my mechanical ignorance, but i can't believe lowering it 1.75 inches is that much different than lowering it 1.25 or .75 iches (doesn't the bike have about 14" of rear suspension travel stock ? old norman kouba said "you should be find so long as you keep the bikes wheels on the ground" .. to me that means no jumps.. i hoped it would mean i could still bang through whoops.. this stinks.. this bike new has already cost me more money than my original dr200 i bought used and had for 3 yrs.. darn.. - Bob

It is the extra length of the Kouba links that are causing you the problem. Because you have changed the length of the links you have also affected the leverage that they exert on the shock. It has the effect of making the spring seem much softer than it really is. Kouba link, should be able to tell you how much to increase the rear spring rate by, for each of their links. I would have thought that at 5' 11" you would need the Kouba 1 link, at most. I am 5' 8" and can ride a stock DRZ400S, but it is a one foot, tip toe deal. At your height a gel or lowered stock seat should be enough.

Neil.

🙂

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...