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Where are the extra bricks ???????

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With all the good things said about the DRZ400S I'm leaning toward buying it but was wondering where the extra bricks are? Comparing it to the DRZ400 there is like a 30 pound difference and I don't see where all the extra weight is coming from. It's got a digital tach/speedo so where is the extra poundage???

I figure the average dual sport kit will add mabe 10 pounds max to a bike so I'm wondering what parts need changing on the S to get it closer to the regular dirt DRZ weight?

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Pillion pegs

Bar End Weights

battery, starter, etc

headlight is heavy as hell

spedo (there is no tach)

extended subframe to support rear tail light (which is also quite heavy)

lots of little things add up. I'd say the bulk of it is the headlight assembly (including spedo), and passenger pegs.

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That's what I'm looking for >> easy inexpensive swaps to loose 15 or 20 of those pounds.

So your saying the battery is bigger than the E ?

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same battery.

the 1st 10 or so lbs are pretty easy to loose the it starts costing a bit.

few things off top of my head,buddy pegs,reflectors and bracket on front fender,helmit lock,bar ends,kickstand switch,

replacement stuff,differant mirrers,tailight assy,headlight,exhaust,speedo.

there is more just not coming to me right now..

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The lack of power with the "S" makes a difference as well. I think it must be something like 5 hp less than the "E"

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Thanks all,

If I had a extra 500 smackers in the budget what would be the best way to drop some weight aside from the exhaust. I want to keep it stealth so I'm looking to drop some poundage elsewhere.

So the stock headlight and speedo are that porky? Would it be the best place to start?

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the taillight assy,is fairly heavy also,and chances are its going to get busted anyway.mirrors are pretty cheap,and you can loose a pound or so up high there.

cant give any advice on headlights,I still run my stocker,its a dang good light if you ride a lot at night so I live with the weight..

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Yes, I would start with the headlight. I'd go with UFO's 'wrap around' headlight.. It affixes to the fork tubes via rubber wrap around snap/clamps. Aside from dropping the weight from the stock mount, it makes for MUCH less trouble when/if you decide to drop your forks. I've spent literally an hour trying to force the tubes back through the rubber inserts of the stock mount.

You might also want to get new handlebars, the stockers are steel. I killed two birds with one stone and went with CR-Hi's.. much better ergos for me.

Every little bracket, nut, bolt, etc.. that isn't absolutely necessary I've done away with. Zip ties work better than steel brackets affixed with screws, and give you that half pound savings overall.

Remove the chainguard, bar end weights, mirrors, and all reflectors. Cut the helmet lock off the subframe, or simply shorten the subframe. Cut off the chainguard mounting tabs.

Go with an LED tail light if you can get away with it, remove stock turn signals, replace with something more basic.. most any flushmount will save you weight. Do away with them completely if your state allows (they just bend and break anyway).

You can cut and grind your right side passenger peg plate so that you can still use it for exhaust mounting, while getting rid of the weight added from the pegs themselves. If you're real ambitious I'd grind the mounts off the subframe as well as shorten the subframe.

Replace the stock spedo with a bicycle spedo, keep the idiot lights - they weigh little to nothing. (I've kept only my temp light and nuetral light.) Replace the spedo drive on the front axle with a spacer identical to the left side's. [note, this was done mostly to reduce clutter. You'd be suprised what you can get for the spedo assy on ebay too.]

Increase your budget to 600 and you should be able to replace the stock exhaust with something lighter along with all the above.

The next stage for me will be adding a kickstart and removing the electric start (After a couple weeks with both to make sure I can start it reliably when tired as sh*t). I wish I could have titled the E/K in FL. But it's one light S model. 🙂 Once doing away with the battery I'll trim the subframe even more.

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Thanks all,

If I had a extra 500 smackers in the budget what would be the best way to drop some weight aside from the exhaust. I want to keep it stealth so I'm looking to drop some poundage elsewhere.

So the stock headlight and speedo are that porky? Would it be the best place to start?

If you've got 500 extra in the budget then I'd get an E model and dual sport it if you can get away with it in your state. Real easy to do here in NH. 🙂

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I was reading and article comparing the xl650 to Bmw Dakar 650. power on the xl650 was only 30 horses, is drz really more powerful than xl650, I know the XL650 is pretty dang heavy, but I didn't know is was about 3 or 4 horses less that a stock DRZ S.

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Ya like everyone suggested an E dual sported would be a great way to go if you can do that.....

If you go S here is a pretty complete list of the differences that add up to all that weight :

Front Rotor has more area. (To pull away heat faster?)

Wiring Harness

Blinker Flasher, Switch clusters

Carb heavier or lighter?

Pegs and Passenger pegs

Helmet lock

Steering lock

Steel stem on the triple clamp

Subframe (About 4 lbs heavier S to E with pass pegs and helmet lock all)

Tail light assembly

Headlight

Blinkers

Speedo

Bar Ends

Mirrors

Metal Fuel Tank

Larger Front Master Cylinder

Indicators / Nuetral switch on the motor

Reflectors

Toolbag / tools

There ya have it I think thats about all of it. 🙂

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dont forget that even if you take off all the extra weight you will still add weight if you do any mods/add-ons hand guards/handle bars/tripple clamp/rad guards etc........

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Ya like everyone suggested an E dual sported would be a great way to go if you can do that.....

If you go S here is a pretty complete list of the differences that add up to all that weight :

Front Rotor has more area. (To pull away heat faster?)

Probably for higher speed use on highways. Not a lot of 60-0 stops in the dirt.

Wiring Harness

Blinker Flasher, Switch clusters

Carb heavier or lighter?

Probably no significant difference, but there is a dual throttle cable on the S. You can lose the return cable.

Pegs and Passenger pegs

Passenger pegs and bracket are about 1.5lbs. Plus there are rubber inserts on main pegs. Those have to go as they are slippery when wet/muddy.

Helmet lock

Steering lock

The helmet lock can't even be an ounce and I'd be surprised if the Helmet lock was more than three.

Steel stem on the triple clamp

Interesting. Didn't know that the E was aluminum. Probably the lock hole in the S would have weakened the aluminum too much.

Subframe (About 4 lbs heavier S to E with pass pegs and helmet lock all)

But without them, the weight is very similar. Just a small loop at the back is the main difference.

Tail light assembly

I saw 2.76lbs as the number for the whole taillight assembly.

Headlight

Blinkers

Speedo

Bar Ends

The bar end weights are an easy way to reduce weight.

Mirrors

They are 1lb. each.

Metal Fuel Tank

It's no heavier than the plastic one on the E.

Larger Front Master Cylinder

Indicators / Nuetral switch on the motor

Reflectors

Toolbag / tools

There ya have it I think thats about all of it.

Passenger grab strap

Kickstand switch

Clutch switch

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I haven't weighed them, but I read somewhere that replacing the metal gas tank with a plastic tank (Clarke or IMS) will knock off 7 pounds.

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the helmet lock assy.weighs .366 lbs.

you save 1.8 lbs.w/an e model tank,cap,petcock combo. at least i just did. 🙂

I stand corrected. I didn't think about the fact that the cap was a good 1/2 lb. all by itself.

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Kicker kit. Lose the battery, starter, starter clutch, and wiring. Not for everybody. I get by fine, even in some fairly heavy traffic. No fan or magic button. Never get stuck with a bad or discharged battery, ever again 🙂

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((I haven't weighed them, but I read somewhere that replacing the metal gas tank with a plastic tank (Clarke or IMS) will knock off 7 pounds.))

The steel tank doesn't even weigh 7 lbs, and by the time you fill the clark with gas it will be alot heavier than stock tank. There is no weight savings with aftermarket tank.

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