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🙂 Ok this is my first off road bike. I just got it about 2 months ago and dont get to ride much with anyone else because I also just moved to where I'm at and dont know anyone here really yet. My question is does this look bad to you? I weigh about 200 lbs and have done all of the free mods for this bike. It just looks like its ready to snap in half to me or is this the way its supposed to look when you land from a jump?

bottom-out1.png🙂

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Looks like you might have come up short on your landing, or maybe over shot it? Hard to tell with out seeing the whole jump.

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Usually, don't try to land on an up hill 🙂:D

I doubt if you will ever brake the bike, but...

You weigh 200 and jumping a WR...

Its made more for off riding not hitting 75' triples.

Depending on what kinda areas you ride might want to have re sprung and revalved for your needs 🙂

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The WR's suspension is tuned more for offroad, while the YZ was tuned for the track, however... both bikes are factory tuned for their respective activities for a rider that's about 165-175 pounds. I'm 185 and very comfortable on my WR, but I'm not taking any huge jumps.

The WR suspension can easily be revalved for the track, but before doing that, I'd just set the sag for your weight... that will help.

Set up properly, the WR is totally competitive. A good rider on a WR will whoop a mediocre rider on a YZ.

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Thanks for the replies I'll read up on setting the sag and give that a go. This isn't no huge jump I'd be lucky to be 5 feet in the air at the peak of it. Here's a different angle of the same jump.

http://members.cox.net/jgostained/pics/100_0189.JPG

You're supposed to bottom both ends on big landings or bumps - no worries, the pros' MX bikes do that if you watch the televised races, the suspension uses the whole travel range to do its work. That's actually good, you don't want your bike to only use half of the travel because this means that it is set up too stiff. OTOH, if you're in the mid stroke when you just sit on the bike (i.e. check you sag ettings), then you need stiffer springs for your weight (at 200 lbs you do need to go stiffer on both ends, I had to and I'm only 175 lbs). I have the same "low rider" bike as you have on landings and on takeoffs when the suspension is in compressed mode - no problems. 🙂

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It's normal for your suspension to collapse that low on a flat landing....Allthough at your weight I would stongly reccomend that you get different springs. I weigh about the same as you do and I'm running a 5.2 in the back and .46's in the front. Mine is a YZF so your spring rate might need to be a little different. Go here and click on spring rate search, select your bike, then click on spring rate calculator to see what Race Tech reccomends for you and your bike. Also if you have a few hundred extra dollars go ahead and get a re-valve.

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It says to use this OK:

Type of Riding: Desert / Enduro / Trail

Rider Weight: 200 lbs

Recommended Spring Rate: 0.447 kg/mm (use closest available)

Stock Fork Spring Rate (measured): .430 kg/mm (stock)

Available FRSP 4346 Series Springs are:

So I see what you are saying when your talking about the .46's but I have no clue as to what your referring to when you talk about 5.2 in the back I dont see that in this their recommended spring rates. Could you give me a little more to go on in that area please? This is one expensive sport I thought you buy the bike and ride it for a few years until you want a new one and then you sale that one. I have done nothing but pump money into this thing since I got it. I don't know how many clutch levers I have busted.

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It says to use this OK:

Type of Riding: Desert / Enduro / Trail

Rider Weight: 200 lbs

Recommended Spring Rate: 0.447 kg/mm (use closest available)

Stock Fork Spring Rate (measured): .430 kg/mm (stock)

Available FRSP 4346 Series Springs are:

So I see what you are saying when your talking about the .46's but I have no clue as to what your referring to when you talk about 5.2 in the back I dont see that in this their recommended spring rates. Could you give me a little more to go on in that area please? This is one expensive sport I thought you buy the bike and ride it for a few years until you want a new one and then you sale that one. I have done nothing but pump money into this thing since I got it. I don't know how many clutch levers I have busted.

Scroll down on the page where you clicked on the fork spring rate calculator and you will see the shock spring rate calculator. This is an expensive sport and it all depends on how serious you are about riding. If you can afford to buy a $6000 dirt bike then you should be able to spend a little extra tailoring it to you and your needs. It will be money well spent, believe me. And you dont have to go out and drop a lot of money right now...it's all relative to your skill level and how aggressive you ride. For instance, if you're a beginner you might not notice the difference if you got your suspension revalved. A full set of springs would only cost you $180 or so and that's something you really need to make your suspension perform correctly.

btw: some good handgaurds will help save your levers from getting broken. I use Cycras...they're rock sold. I haven't broken a lever since I put them on and I fall quite often 🙂

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Okay... I'm about 185, according to the calculators I need spring rates that are as close to stock as they are to any of the listed aftermarket rates.

Is there any advantage to these springs other than the rates?

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