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Clickers maxed out...now what?

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So I have maxed out both compression clickers front and rear and the rebound clicker on the rear. Things are better from where I started but the suspension is still too stiff....especially in the rear, which likes to bounce off rocks/roots whoops etc. I seem to still have travel left in the suspension because I have never bottomed out....front or back, and I've put in a lot of hours.....

I'm riding a 2000 yz426f, weigh 155 lbs and ride mostly woods, single track. Where do I go from here? Softer springs? Would lighter oil in the forks help?

The front isn't bad, but could be better. The most important thing to sort out is the rear, it is too stiff and bouncy, it just won't stay down. The rear end has a tendency to come up too high when the front is reacting like it should.....

Thanks guys.....

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Your best option is you need to have your bikes suspension done. Need to have it vavled and less oil . You may even need to go to a lighter set of springs. It is kinda costly but it is well worth it if you want to get your suspension done check out this web page my dad is the suspension

http://www.works-suspension.com/ 🙂🙂

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ok..... spending big bucks on suspension work is just not an option. Not that it isn't worth it.... I just don't have the cash now.. So what kind of money we talking to get re-valved? New spring for about $150? If things aren't too pricey I may be able to get some work done.

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Well the best option would be to call my dad and tell him chris told you to call. See what kind of pricing he would quote you and also he may also be able to give you some better advise than i can. Since im not the suspension guy here lol.... Good luck and his name is greg

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Markvan,

First of all, too little or too much damping (rebound and compression) can cause a bike to feel stiff and bouncy. You may have a condition I call "riding the spring". In other words, damping is a very important part for producing a plush yet firm ride.

Your simple and least expensive fix may be to start over.

Crank the high speed setting to 1.5 to 2 turns out, using a 17mm socket. Then adjust both rebound and damping to eight clicks out from bottom, (turn clockwise until they stop, then eight clicks out, counter clockwise).

If you don't feel a significant different from this, your shock may have complications in which it would need to be serviced. More on that later.

Your spring, which should be a 5.4 or 5.6 is within range for your weight, or at least a good starting point.

Try this, report back.

DaveJ

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Markvan,

Crank the high speed setting to 1.5 to 2 turns out, using a 17mm socket. Then adjust both rebound and damping to eight clicks out from bottom, (turn clockwise until they stop, then eight clicks out, counter clockwise).

DaveJ

Ok, there may be something new here I haven't tried....

The high speed setting is adjusted by turning the nut that the 'normal' compression clicker is inside? (on the top of the shock) I didn't realize there was a separate high speed compression adjustment available. Am I understanding you right? This could make a big difference......

Thanks.

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Ok, there may be something new here I haven't tried....

The high speed setting is adjusted by turning the nut that the 'normal' compression clicker is inside? (on the top of the shock) I didn't realize there was a separate high speed compression adjustment available. Am I understanding you right? This could make a big difference......

Thanks.

Yes, you are correct.

Im wondering if you messed with the rebound clicker down on the bottom of the shock beneath the swingarm on the right side? If thats backed out all the way, your bike will be pretty unruly and bouncy for sure...

At 155 pounds Id have you set that at about 8 from fully bottomed. Same with the fork...

Ive had friends that have made mistakes with the S~H markings on the shock/fork...they were hitting things hard and bottoming so they turned them toward S to make the landing softer...wrong....you have to turn toward H to slow the suspension down to prevent it from blasting through the stroke and bottoming. I know thats not your issue, but hopefully you understand the train of thought...

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Interesting issue about the S&H.

Markvan - go at it and let us know how things develop.

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Thanks Shawn,

I wasn't aware of that setting... Wednesday nights our midweek ride I'll try playing with that and let you know. Your right, I did play with the rebound clicker on the bottom, and it is maxed out now. To be honest I didn't really notice a differance with it untill I got to the last 2 clicks, and it maxed out. Those last two clicks felt at the time to help a great deal..... but if I adjust the high speed dampening hopefully I can put that back up and things will feel better....

Thanks again guys... I'll let you know how it goes....

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Ok, I have tried all of the above. No improvement. I can get the suspension stiffer, and still bouncy, but not softer, with no bounce. Really it just feels to hard. I'm sure that if I can get it softer things will feel great.

As for revalving etc... although the bike is a 2000, it hasn't gotten much use until I bought it last spring. So I can't see that it would be worn out. Could something have corroded or broken down over time? I don't see how this could happen but I'm no expert... Would getting the shock re-valved be my next step, or should I look at a softer spring?

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The Fluids/oil in your suspension breaks down just like the oil in your engine. It thins out. For MX you should have your suspension serviced at least 2 times a year if you ride much at all. Its time to tear it down and see whats wrong.

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Right, so I can change the oil in my forks, what about the rear shock? Can anything be done for that? No oil, just gas back there right? Not being a smartass, but what servicing can/should be done for the rear shock?

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I guess that I can't replace the oil myself.....it's probably pressurized.... guess it's time for some servicing at the shop. Thanks for the advice lumpy....

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