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what kind of oil do you use  

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  1. 1. what kind of oil do you use

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What is a reasonable oil-change interval? ....

Q. Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?

A. Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.

Although I agree with many of the points the author of that report makes...

I think that folks who ride dirt bikes should not take much stock in the mileage numbers he offered. He is talking about a street bike.

When considering the mileage/hours for the change interval of a performance single piston 4cycle, I think it best to take the authors numbers and divide them by 10.

5000 miles on a roadster....50 miles on a performance thumper.

Making blanket statements on how good/bad oils degrade in a specific amount of miles is something that you simply cannot state, without the proper anaylisis top back up the assertion.

Some high-dollar, moto specifiic oils can degrade FAR faster than others of the same catagory. There is no way of knowing which ones these are, without the data that testing provides.

No way you can tell by looking if an oil has went out of grade or not.

Sure, you can see contaminants, but some oils may still be in grade even when full of aluminum... others may appear to be the same when changed out, but may have sheard down hours ago.

I tend to be very suspect of blanket statements. :applause:

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Digilubejay-

I would have to agree with you on the generalization of this statement and how it doesn't pertain to single cylinder big bore thumpers. I just posted the article so that others may read it and make their own decisions and is not intended to reflect my thoughts or opinions, just something added to the pot for discussions sake.

By the way, the author of the said article is not the person who I said worked for Chevron. The person I was referring to is Dale Lineaweaver who is an experienced motorcycle tuner and engineer with many years of experience in the professional racing circuits, mostly flat track. He has been tuning engines for years and is a vast lake of knowledge to the Husaberg enthusiast community.

Regards, :applause:

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Although I agree with many of the points the author of that report makes...

I think that folks who ride dirt bikes should not take much stock in the mileage numbers he offered. He is talking about a street bike.

When considering the mileage/hours for the change interval of a performance single piston 4cycle, I think it best to take the authors numbers and divide them by 10.

5000 miles on a roadster....50 miles on a performance thumper.

Making blanket statements on how good/bad oils degrade in a specific amount of miles is something that you simply cannot state, without the proper anaylisis top back up the assertion.

Some high-dollar, moto specifiic oils can degrade FAR faster than others of the same catagory. There is no way of knowing which ones these are, without the data that testing provides.

No way you can tell by looking if an oil has went out of grade or not.

Sure, you can see contaminants, but some oils may still be in grade even when full of aluminum... others may appear to be the same when changed out, but may have sheard down hours ago.

I tend to be very suspect of blanket statements. :applause:

Not to get too picky here but 5000/10=500 not 50

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Not to get too picky here but 5000/10=500 not 50

Well, big difference between 10 and 100...

I think picky is warranted. :applause:

Yes, it should have read 100x

sandskipper,

I wasn't trying to pick apart the article. I was just bringing the fact that we need to have a slightly different train of thought on oil change intervals than that of the street bike rider.

I'm familiar with Dale Lineaweaver, and I agree his credientials are top shelf.

I completely agree with the following:

The oil environment in both Desiels and large displacement motorcyles are similar and the deisel dino-oils are up to the task and at a fraction of the cost of synthetic motorcycle blends and are a great alternative so that the oil can be changed often and kept fresh..... thats the important thing!
Smaller displacements are equally benifited from the robust HDEO's. (hope Satch wil give the guy a break on his spelling...lol)

The only thing I really have trouble with, is the continuance of the "Energy Conserving" oil myth.

It is one of the most widely passed around myths in the moto world.

Unless you are using a VERY thin oil that is LOADED with 'certain' friction modifiers will an oil actually cause a properly working clutch to fail or even show signs of slipping. It just isn' going to happen simply by using an off-the-shelf 10w30, or any energy conserving rated oil.

To me, it is the one issue that is clouded enough for the oil mfg's to continue the campaign to coax moto riders into choosing only the elevated priced moto specific oils.

It's simply a scare tactic.

I think it was Rotax that dispelled the myth with proper testing, however, not unlike the liberal media in the US, only the things that bolsters their side of the issue are going to be published widespread. If it goes against what they believe (the truth be dammned) it will not get out there.

(I'm not directing that at Rotax)

Folks may quite well have experienced a bit of clutch slippage when trying an EC oil, but it is quite a bit more likely that there was already an underlying problem like the plates already being somewhat glazed, and the EC oil simply exaaserbated the situation. (there's one for ya satch :ride: )

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I Run KLOTZ techniplate burns very nice , I use to use the Honda HP2 really was Oily , I run 32:1 however i was gonna bump to 40:1 cuz my bike runs a little rich as it is im still EXP with JD Jetting needles and and main combos

Anybody ever Run the Klotz BENOL 100% Castor oil im wondering how that runs

any better then the Klotz techniplate that has 20% castor oil ok Peace

Liquide Out 96 CR125R :applause:

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Buy the right grade, or better and change it often. It's that simple. Any quality automotive oil will do if it's the right weight and grade. Don't waste your money boys! One thing you do want to avoid is oils with Teflon, in the clutch.

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Well, i´m proper confused as what to use now. Can someone with knowledge, experience and education please make a suggestion to me.

Thanks all.

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I use Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W-40 or Rotella synthetic 5W-40 (blue bottle), both are HDEO diesel/gasoline oils that contain no friction modifiers and have lots of good stuff like phosphorus and zinc. Mobil 1 has been tough to find since hurricane Katrina, Wall-Mart carries both $19.98 5qt jug, and $11.95 gallon jug respectively.

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Ive tryed the Mobil 1 and used it for many years and it is all i run in my trucks and cars, ive run Maxima, Motul, bel rey and few othes and came to the conclusion that the Mobil 1 was as good as any of the bike only oils but im going the try the Red Line oil as it comes highly recomended.

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-synthetic scares me b/c the clutch is also taking a bath in it.

-nothing like a glazed clutch.

-astro-

Why?

Most of the best oils for engine/transmissions (motorcycle and car) are synthetic.

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I use Bel ray for premix and castrol for engine. Ive been using the same stuff since i bought my bike and not gunna change it!!!

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When someone can show me an engine run at redline for 24 hours a day, 7 days a week that shows ZERO wear on any part whatsoever THEN I'll switch to something besides Mobil1. Until then? No thanks. :applause:

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