Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Promoto Billet End Silencer and S/A

Recommended Posts

Installed the ProMotobillet end cap s/a and silencer in my 05 CRF450. The instructions that came with it were adequate and for $150 it seems to be a good deal. You need to be a little patient and have a healthy rubber mallet to get the stock end cap off which I destroyed in the process. I have read threads about heating it up fist but I don't have a torch. I put the end cap on and instead of using rivets, I tapped the holes and used button head screws. It looks sharp and sounds good. If you got the time and are somewhat mechanically inclined then I say it is an inexpensive way to convert the stock R pipe into a USFS 96db exhaust.

T-Diddy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hello, did you have to re-jet after installation?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya you are so right about the stock end cap being a pain in the a ....... to get off. :eek:

Managed to do it without wrecking it,not sure how!!

Looks good but to my ear does not seem any quieter than stock. :applause:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The stock end cap comes off much easier if you do heat it up really good. I'd like to know what the black sealant is that the factory uses when they install it, really tough stuff.

Be sure to use loctite on the bolt in the silencer or it will fall out over time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It does seem a bit quieter in the mid range bark. It is supposed to be 4 db lower.

Used Hondalock 2 on the end cap bolts. :applause:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought the Dr. D endcap with Spark Arrestor. Cost me $85.00 + $5.00 shipping. Rerivoted the S.A. into stock holes. Looks exactly the same as the PRO Moto Billett.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The silencer installs from the inside and is held in place by a screw. It must be installed with the end cap off the bike. For this reason, I drilled and tapped the holes for screws rather than riveting it on to the pipe. On or Off whenever I want.

T-Diddy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I bought the Dr. D endcap with Spark Arrestor. Cost me $85.00 + $5.00 shipping. Rerivoted the S.A. into stock holes. Looks exactly the same as the PRO Moto Billett.

They are in no way the same. I, too, bought a Dr. D and thought I saved $30 by not buying the ProMoto. Later on, I saw a ProMoto at a dealer, and noticed the size of the screen section. It looked bigger. I went home, yanked the screen out of my Dr. D and took it back to the dealer to compare sizes. The Dr. D's screen area was about one half the size of the ProMoto. Plus the diameter was bigger on the ProMoto. I bought the ProMoto on the spot, and tossed the Dr. D. I was annoyed that I wasted $100 on that lousy Dr. D design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a Promoto Billet S/A with my 05 450R last year from Canyon Honda in Nampa, Id. They installed it for me. My question is regarding this Silencer, does it slide over the cone shaped screen in the S/A? if so, is there any power loss by using the Silencer?

05 450R

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I installed my PMB end cap, I gave the end cap a few firm whacks with wooden hammer handle (side-to-side) and it came right out. I did another one for my tool-challenged friend and it came out just as easy. No damage to either stock end cap, so you guys may want to try that method if you're trying to save the stocker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

did anybody cut the muffler tube after the cap is removed. like the instructions said

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
When I installed my PMB end cap, I gave the end cap a few firm whacks with wooden hammer handle (side-to-side) and it came right out. I did another one for my tool-challenged friend and it came out just as easy. No damage to either stock end cap, so you guys may want to try that method if you're trying to save the stocker.
really? you didn't have to heat it first?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, have a decent saw handy. If you don't cut it, the screen will get crushed when you go to bolt on the tip. Make sure you don't crush the muffler tube, de-burr it well, and test fit the PMB end cap before applying sealant or start drilling holes.

(A couple of post up). On the PMB, the cone screen sits in a recess on the end cap. The "silencer" looks like a cylindrical plug with holes drilled through it to bring down the bark some. It inserts into the tip (as already stated) and is retained by a single screw on the "cap" side of the tip. You can run both, one, or neither and only have to remove the tip to make changes, not the end cap.

I have a JD needle Kit in my 05 ® and a Twin Air setup. It runs well with either of the PMB configurations as far as my seat can tell.

Only other pipe I've tried is a Dr D (open exhaust). The stock setup pulls harder from mid range up even with the PMB inserts than the Dr D, but has much less bottom hit (not due to the PMB however).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
really? you didn't have to heat it first?

No, I just held the silencer in one hand, and gave a few good side to side thumps with the wooden hammer handle and off it came. Like the other guy said, a rubber mallet ( I have a shot-filled rubber hammer that would work great) would work just as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...