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Bike in the box arrived, now questions...

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Ok, yesterday was the day. I picked up my new 04 TC450 at the local Yellow Freight service center. I got it home and after a little effort, she was free from the crate. Along with the bike, the crate contained: one box with a closed course exhaust pipe, another box with two skid plates and mounting hardware, the holeshot device, a kickstart setup (still can't tell if it's the update or not), owners manual, registration manual, world dealer guide, and some simple tools for pulling the plug and wheels.

I got the bike assembled and put it on it's dinky little stand. I charged the battery for a bit and put some premium fuel in it and hit that magic button. Wow, it fired right up!! I let it idle a bit to warm up and adjusted the idle so it would stay running. Then I hopped on and headed off down the street. WOW! I really like my 94 250 WXE but this new bike is great! I only rode it for a few minutes, I'm planning on breaking it in at the Wildomar OHV area Saturday morning. But when I got it back home, I had it idling again and it started dripping blue stuff. I got under it and looked up and it was somewhere above the bottom skid plate. I stuck my finger in the blue goo and determined that it's radiator fluid. Maybe I have an air bubble in the system?

Now a really stupid question... When do I need to use the decompression lever? I have never had a 4 stroke that had one.

Both of my front forks are labeled "Marzochi Shiver". I thought "Shiver" shocks were for 05's?

Anyone in my area want to ride at Wildomar OHV Saturday morning while I break this baby in? Especially anyone who knows a bit about this bike that might want to help me dial in the carb and suspension settings? :applause:

--Tony

new 04 TC450 :eek:

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check the tightness of all bolts, including the cooling system drainage bolt on the right side of the motor (right side as you sit on it) down low its a small 8 mm bolt head on the motor. Look in the owners manual for its location. I assume its the same on the 04's as my 05. see if that is where your coolant drip is coming from.

check your rear sprocket bolts.

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On the Decomp,sometimes. If the motor becomes vapor locked, just pull the decomp in and roll the motor over several times. I find sometimes when mine gets hot the starter won't even budge the motor until I do this. This will clear out the cylinder. This also helps on flooding.

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As far as the kickstart goes there is a tab at the end of the assembly shaft.

If it is flat you have the old one. If it is bent slightly to the left you have the upgrade. The old flat one used to slip by the stop on the inner case and crack

the inner and outer case. The new one is bent to the left so it won't slip by.

I believe some of the springs are stronger on the new one as well. I got my bike assembeled from heinens with kickstart on the bike and it broke both cases on the 3rd kick. Husky took care of it for me but it took a lot of time and effort. Check with your local dealer.

As far as the radiator fluid, I ran my bike when it was new the same as you and when I sat for to long( about 5 min) it overflowed as well. No airflow to keep it cool. Since then I have been riding several times and stops on the trail have not caused anymore overflow. Check the level of fluid and don't sit in one place with the motor on for to long.

Shiver forks are standard on 04 tc. Uptite Husky in Santa Ana has a much better skid plate i recommend. Its obvious just by looking at it. They have a website but I am not sure what it is. I am going to keep riding mine for a while before I mess with any settings to get the parts wore in first.

Have fun, Buzz

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Sweet replies guys! What are you running for air pressure in the tires? I converted the 0,9 KG/cm2 to lbs/psi and it came up to 12 lbs. That seems awful low...

Battery charging: I charged mine on my big battery charger, set at 12v/2amp. I'm betting this is too much juice for that little battery. Battery Tender brand trickle charger sound good?

I'm reading through the owners manual again right now and some of the units of measurement don't make sense. How much gas does this thing hold? The manual says 1.6 quarts! Got to be a misprint.. How much oil does it use? I plan on changing the oil and checking the valves as soon as I get my first 2 hours on it Saturday. Is everyone buying Agip oil from Husky or what are you using?

Flame sent me some good break in info the other day. Don't baby it, ride it hard so the rings seat and cams break in. Anyone else have some break in advice? (is that a loaded question or what?)

I haven't looked at the carb yet. Is there an adjustment on the a/p arm? I have searched the forum here and it seems most say to adjust it but the amount of adjustment is different for each post. I will be taking some tools with me Saturday to tune things as needed.

Speaking of tools, I got this little round thing in the toolkit. Looks like it fits in the front axle, opposite of the allan cap bolt. I tried to stick it in and the nubs on it are two wide to fit into the axle sleeve. Bad tool? Or is the axle supposed to stick out some on the left side so this tool will fit the notches in the end of the axle? It doesn't appear that would work right.

If you can't tell, I'm excited about the new bike and frustrated that I have 3 more days of work before I can really play with it. I'm soo glad I found this forum so I can talk with other Husky riders! Hell, for years, I thought I was the Lone Ranger when it came to riding Husky's in my area. Now I find out some of you are in my neck of the woods! Gotta love the internet, eh?

--Tony

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TenthBuzz,

I got mine from Heinens too! When I asked them about the kickstart upgrade, they seemed puzzled. They said it was upgraded already and in the box. Well, I can tell you, that box hadn't been opened before I got it so no one changed it out. I'm not worried about adding the kickstart, at least not yet. If the e-start is as good as everyone says, why bother? I remember swapping my old Husky 250WXE out with a kid who had a YZF426 at Lake Elsinore. Life was great till I stalled the damn thing. I could get it restarted for nothing. Finally, another YZF rider stopped and came over and did some weird starting thing and it fired right up. I guess once you get used to it, it's alright. Right now, I like hitting that little button :applause:

--Tony

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Do your self a favor, buy a battery tender and a set of leads, battery tender sells those too. Mount the leads on the battery. Plug your bike while it's at home, leave it plugged in. I do this and my battery is allways sharp as a tack on trail ride days.

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Finding Agip oil is impossible. I run a full synthetic 15w50 from Maxima.

BTW, I've been very pleased with MotoXotica for mail ordering parts and spares.

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I run 10w40 Amsoil 4 stroke motorcycle oil

I have used the compression release when your rolling down hill and the motor has stalled. Put it in 2nd, pull in the release, let out the clutch, let out the release and it will start.

Also if you drop it big time, kick it over several times with the compression release pulled in while holding the kill switch. This helps clear out raw gas that might have run into the top end while the bike was upside down.

I guess you could pull the compression release and push the magic button (and the kill switch) to clean out the fuel as well. Either way it will help prevent a backfire from all that raw fuel in the motor.

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I changed the coolant for pre mixed road racing Motul stuff and have never had any problems since. It was only ever a problem in prolonged slow speed stuff. I guess it depends where you are going to ride.

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Cheapie hint..... Kawasaki sells their own brand 15-50 full synth for cheap compared to many other brands. It's about the same price as the Motul semi synth at my local dealer. It's not quite the 10-60 recomended in the book but being full synthetic the protection should be good.

As for breaking it in it's good to load the rings but keep the RPM's in check by short shifting for the first hour or so. In looking around at breakin stuff and seeing the controversial material at the Mototune USA site I came across a few breakin procedures for aviation engines. I figured that if anyone needs a reliable and long lived engine it's got to be the aviation industry, right? Anyhow they recomend only a few minutes at partial throttle and then switch to full throttle but with a larger than normal prop to fully load the rings but keep the RPMs to less than 70% of rated RPM. Also a buddy of mine works in the commercial engine rebuilding industry and we've had a few chats on good breakin procedures.

Bottom line is that aggesive is good but you don't want to be abusive right off the bat.

In light of that I ran my new bike at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle and shifted at an estimated 4000 to 5000 for the first 20 minutes or so then started using full throttle and an extra thousand or so RPMs for another 45 minutes to an hour. At that point I changed oil and filter (but missed the screens which I'll do at the next change) and just finished running another hour and a quarter at full throttle and close to max revs. Maybe 7 to 8000? It's hard to tell without a tach and with such a different sound. I'm going to change the oil before I run it again and clean out the screens and look at the filter. If it's not black like the first one I'll put it back in for one more session.

A lot of metal fillings came out with the first change. Thank heaven for the magnet on the plug!

I followed this sort of fairly aggresive breakin on my Z1000 and found that I had to back off the idle speed twice during the first 1500 kms. A sure sign that the innards were getting along well. A higher idle being a sign of less internal friction.

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Finding Agip oil is impossible. I run a full synthetic 15w50 from Maxima.

Agip is recommended by Aprilia. There aren't too many Aprilia dealers out there, except when compared to Husky, but they'll probably carry it.

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Who did u order your bike from, I might do that , Cause the Local husky dealer is an hour away and the rest are 4 hours, ANd the dude there is an Ass so i would rather buy and have it shipped to me. Does it come with 2 exhuast and 2 skid plates or did i read it wrong. IS there a sight i could look at to get one, Cause i would rather order on and put it toghether on my own. It sounds fun. Im lookin to geta TC250

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Anything out of Italy is gonna recommend Agip oil. Ducati, Aprilia and Husqvarna all say to use their stuff. I'm sure Mtoo Guzzi and MV Agusta will recommend it too. My Ducati and Husky dealers all sell Maxima for their bikes. Any good synthetic will do fine. BREAK IN ADVICE- drain the synthetic oil out of the engine and do the first 10 hours with a non-synthetic oil. This is important.

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04HondaCRF150F,

Check on E-bay. It was Heinen's Husky and he was blowing out his leftover 04's. He didn't have any TE450's, but I think they do have some TC250's on there.

Thanks everyone else for the breakin info and the oil info. It's only 2 more work days until a real ride on the new thumper!!!

--Tony

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Everything sounds spot on to my 04 TC 450 break in. George Erl at Uptite set up my carb for me. I broke the bike in using a 50/50 mixture of race fuel and Premium fuel for the first 10 gallons. 100-104 and 91 to be exact works good. Now I will add 1 gallon of 100 octane fuel to every 4-5 gallon of premium fuel to keep my valves lubed. In baja I will run whatever I can get.

My recommendation is ditch the enduro end pipe and go straight away with the MX end pipe. This made a big difference in how my 450 runs. As we put more miles on it, the bike runs cleaner too. Right now I have about 300 miles on it. The suspension is starting to settle in too. It was recommended to not change the suspension (if at all) before i put 800 miles on the bike.

I change the oil after every weekend ride and it has been clean and with out metal shavings so far. I went to an O ring chain and changed the sprockets to a 16/46 combo. This works good in spreading out the ratios and giving me a better 1st gear for trails. I have the Uptite Skid Plate and it is great. I took off just a bit on the oil filter side so I could remove the cover without having to remove the skid plate first.

Everything else works great. I hooked battery tender leads to my battery and bought a tender (it came as one package from GP Cycles in San Diego). Now the battery is fully charged everytime I go riding. No kick starter came with my TC and a new one will set you back about $260.00 + tax. So far I haven't needed it, but will probably buy it just to be happy while riding in Baja. I went with HD tubes, slime and 6 ply tires for desert/baja riding.

Steny :applause:

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Speaking of tools, I got this little round thing in the toolkit. Looks like it fits in the front axle, opposite of the allan cap bolt. I tried to stick it in and the nubs on it are two wide to fit into the axle sleeve. Bad tool? Or is the axle supposed to stick out some on the left side so this tool will fit the notches in the end of the axle? It doesn't appear that would work right.

The tool is to hold the front axel from spinning while you get the nut off the other end. Normally you can leave the one side axel pinch bolts tight while you are spinning off the nut so you don't need the tool most of the time. Some times you do to tighten up the axel before tightening the pinch bolts.

All of the axel tools seem to be hard to get into the slots, just a little tight is all it is. I took the wire Brush on my grinder to mine and it now fits fine. The spark plug wrench doesn't work either.

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Flame,

You have been asking about the off-road pipe that came with my bike. Have you checked out the pipes from www.uptiteracing.com? His prices seem really good (~$300) for a custom tunable pipe. I'm going to hang on to mine for a bit and try it out when I get a chance to head to the track after breakin. If I don't like it, you get first dibs on it. Maybe I will replace it with one from UpTite and sell you mine.

--Tony

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The spark plug wrench that come with 04, were for the old 570 motor. And it dosn´t fit the new motor.

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