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Wnt more front lift. Any suggestions?

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I have a 2003 klx 300. I did all the free mods and bought the Dynokit. I still have the stock sprokets (14/50). Of the trails I ride, I'd say 70% of the time I'm in 2nd or 3rd. I really want the front end to lift easier to go over obstacles. 1st gear is easy to lift, 2nd gear is okay but I need to pull up some, 3rd gear has very little lift. Any suggestions on how I can get more lift?

I did change the front sproket from a 14t to a 13t but saw little difference so I put back the 14t. I'm wondering if I go up on the rear and back and back to the 13t if that will help much.

I was also thinking about replacing header and muffler but after reading the reviews on Plantetklx, I'm thinking the money spent would not be worth it.

I'm wondering if changing to the Mikuni TM 33 would help. Any suggestions or opinions would be appreciated.

Of the trails I ride, I'd say 70% of the time I'm in 2nd or 3rd. I really want the front end to lift easier to go over obstacles.

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No difference with a 13T??? :applause: I found a huge difference with the 13T. Do you have an aftermarket header or stock? IMO, at this stage, if you don't have an aftermarket header, that's the direction you need to head in next.

Oops. Just re-read your post. You should get the header. It will make a big difference. A pumper without the header would be putting a band-aid on the problem. First up, you need to get the bike breathing properly. Then go about additional mods if you feel you need them. Make sure you get the dynojet jetted properly also. Do you have a hi-flow air filter on also? Getting all the little things right first makes a giant difference.

I have the dynojet kit and aftermarket header and 13T. I can easily get the front end up in the whoops in 4th at speed. When traction is good and if I'm going fast enough, the front end can come up in 5th too. I really like where the 13T puts the torque band at the speeds I'm riding at.

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a pumper carb will make a big difference in how easy it is to pop the front wheel up, but it will make a bigger difference to get a bike with more power.

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Maybe it's like Mark says. Maybe you're just looking for a bigger bike. The KLX (at least with a stock bore) is never going to be a fire breathing monster. I've ridden a fully blown out 365 that was pretty gnarly though. :applause:

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One more thought. Power to the GROUND is what brings up the front end. I would highly suggest you try an observed trials tire like the IRC TR011 or Michelin X11. If you're trying to get the front end up over logs and rock obstacles, it would be very benificial. When I put one on, it felt like the KLX had 5 more HP and getting the front end up at slower speeds and technical sections became easier. Getting traction instead of spinning brings up the front end much easier. Even running 10lbs like we do, the traction difference is amazing. I will rarely use a knobby anymore - at least on the KLX. It's just too fun with a trials tire.

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Bill,

You had me worried, it took 3 posts to get to the tires. :applause:

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You want more front lift: Underwire and padding.

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You were a little slow getting to the tire Bill. All this trials tire talk has me thinking about one. Right now the thing giving me the most trouble is creek crossings with all sizes of smooth rocks. Would the trials tire be a big gain there? What has me the most concerned is that I ride a fair amount of pavement and gravel roads, and I'm a little worried about that type of tire for that. Overall I'm happy with the Dunlop on the bike now even though it's not DOT. It's half wore out and still hooks good enough most places.

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I was asking myself the samething.....tires Bill, what about the TIRES! Your beautiful Bill. I'm more of a reader than a poster and I have learned a boat load from your posts. Thanks and keep it up! :applause:

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Pumper carb made the biggest difference to my bike doing mono's.

But I'll have to agree with something Bill said.. maybe you need a different bike, a more powerful one. Otherwise you'll end up having to do every single mod possible for the KLX (including making it a 365!).

Consider this.. the MX bikes lift much easier, perhaps because they're lighter.

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Bill,

You had me worried, it took 3 posts to get to the tires. :applause:

I hate those early morning posts without coffee.....

:eek:

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You were a little slow getting to the tire Bill. All this trials tire talk has me thinking about one. Right now the thing giving me the most trouble is creek crossings with all sizes of smooth rocks. Would the trials tire be a big gain there? What has me the most concerned is that I ride a fair amount of pavement and gravel roads, and I'm a little worried about that type of tire for that. Overall I'm happy with the Dunlop on the bike now even though it's not DOT. It's half wore out and still hooks good enough most places.

NOW, before you get all mad at me for pushing this again, I know it's all good natured kidding when you guys make fun of the trials tires and I'm smiling right now. 😛😛😛😛😛 But until you're man enough to try one, don't have too much fun laughing. My buddy - who I convinced to run one on his KLX - just did the BBTR dual sport which is infamously KNOWN for torturous trails with most experienced riders not being able to finish the 160+ miles of torture between dawn and long after dark. He literally putted up nasty rocky trails (just above idle in 1st gear) with a 3/4 worn out trials tire leaving scores of big bore guys with all their hi-tech do dah and new knobbies spinning trenches in the hillside. Personally, I think LT did it that way just to taunt them. 🙂 The little greenie with a funny tire does it again. Truth? Fiction? Why not get one and decide for yourself. OR, are you more concerned with looks or a loud pipe? (If so, I suggest the IRC Vulcanduro - big and gnarly -= just don't ride anything too slick and a big gun race core) I pretty much have a standing offer to any one I ride with that I'll buy the tire off of them if they don't like it. Why would I do that?

I see dozens of people asking about big buck mods on their bikes, but very, very, very rarely do I ever see anyone saying they tried a trials tire - with either positive or negative comments. Why is that?

If someone could answer me, I'd really love to know why more people don't try something as simple as a tire change. A pumper may give you more power - before wheelspin - but you have to mod the frame and kick out some serious bucks. A tire change is simple and can be done in a half hour. And a pumper does not positively affect the handling of the bike like a trials tire does.

We don't have a lot of streams, but I'll give you one thought on an uphill rock waterfall that was mossy, wet, muddy and had greasy slick rock all over it - and had a few 18" to 24" stairsteps in it just to make life fun. I rode up two KLX's shod with trials tires with no problems. Then, it took 3 of us 10 minutes and a lot of swearing to push up a DRZ with a brand new knobbie. The knobbie was useless on the slick rock. The trials tire still seemed to get some bite and allowed for an approach that gave the option of picking lines instead of bonzai-ing and the inevitable nasty falls on hard rock that followed. Don't know about streams, but I would be willing to bet it would be an improvement over pretty much any knobbie. Slick stuff is one of the areas they accel in.

Wear wise, you will be much better off with a trials tire. They last at least 2X's as long - up to 3X's depending on how you abuse it. Since you ride pavement, I'd suggest you try the MITAS DOT approved observed trials tire. They're available from enduro engineering on the east coast. I'm going to try one of those if I can ever wear this tire out. Let's put it this way, my tire is going to outlast my latest hot shot Stainless Steel Kibblewhite valve job unless a miracle happens and my valves are healed. :applause::eek:

Now, no offense to Myall's observations. I know a pumper definately helps, but I've stayed away from them due to tuning issues, a wide variety of altitudes that I ride (sea level to over 10k feet) and the fact that the very even "non-hit" of the CVK actually HELPS me in the kind of trails I like to ride. (See above waterfall example) All that said, I have no trouble lifting the wheel over obstacles when I need to. High speed whoops are where I have had the most problems keeping the front end up, but with the 13T, that is much improved.

I have ridden KLX's with pumpers. A couple with 33's and a 36. They were nice, but I was not overly impressed. I also rode one with a FCR35 that was the biggest POS. (When it ran, it was strong and nice though. Talk about not being able to get the wheel up, every time I whacked the throttle it would bog and die, but I could tell it made good power) I can't comment on whether jetting of the 33 & 36 was correct cause I didn't jet them, but they got some lift. On one of my test rides, I noticed that a lot of the power that I should have been getting was being left in wheelspin. (Sandy desert) All that said, I noticed more oomph after putting on the trials tire than I did with the 33's. Guys, think about it. It's aaaaaallllll about power to the ground. That's why people talk about HP at the rear wheel, not at the crank.

Before you guys flame me, this is just my personal experience. Maybe I should put on a pumper AND a trials tire. 😛

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I'm not laughing. The most awsome rider I've ever seen that is not factory sponsored rides a ktm 300 exc at metcalf mc park in san jose, ca. The guy is awsome, it seems he could ride up the trunk of a tree if he wanted to. He routinely negotiates the trials obstacles they have at the park on his ktm as well. And he uses a rr trials tire.....

I'm going to try one when I wear out my current tire.

As far as not being able to lift the front even with a 13/50t gearing, you may be sitting too far forward, be too big for the bike, or aren't getting any traction, or the carb is not dialed yet, and/or you should do the 1/4 turn throttle mod. Just to reflect and compare: my 2003 klx300 has a dj carb kit, 13t/49, wb header, free mods, stock can; my buddy who rides a 2005 wr450 - a beast of a bike - said my klx is more than powerful enough for most anything trail related, and was pulling wheelies all over the place on it when he rode it; note that I have 13/49t gearing - yes I went to a tooth smaller on the rr and I like it better than 13/50t because 1st gear is more useful now that its a little mellower; also, my jetting currently in the hot weather is dj 124 main, dj needle on 3rd clip slot, 35 pilot is a little leaner than recommended but is snappy and runs clean without detonation and overheating.

B.

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Good points by all. I have thought about a bigger bike but mine runs and handles so well. I do get enough lift to go over obstacles. I was just wondering if I should expect more out of the bike. Sounds like my bike runs as good as most others. Thanks for all the comments. Now on to my next question.

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C'mon Bill you really think I'm going to get after you for "pushing this again" when I was asking you for info??? Just kidding and thanks for your reply.

You are definitely right with the power to the ground being important. Both of our bikes, when properly jetted will loft the front wheel easily on pavement. On the dirt it's very dependant on a combination of traction and power. The 400 has a big edge here while the 300 seems to spin more even with less power and a better tire.

Now there is only that image thing to keep me from trying the trials tire. Do you think that pink handle bar streamers would go well with it?? :eek:🙂:applause:

Almost forgot. This is off topic, but I take it your SS valves aren't living up to expectations? What seems to be the trouble?

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tuhge: you're probably just too big for a 300cc trail bike when you want to really rush it. Even though I'm not real big I would like more power out of my klx for stuff other than tight trails, but for tight trails it's already more than enough, which is probably the case for you too. So, because of the limitations and focuses of bike designs, I've come to realize that ideally I might need 2 bikes: one for technical stuff that is very progressive and controlled (klx), and one for more open riding that is more of a beast(something bigger). Of course I'm constantly wracking my brain to figure out what would be the perfect "do it all" bike that could do everything excellent, but as yet I haven't been able to find the answer. If anyone has the answer to my ever-perplexing question of the perfect bike that is awsome everywhere, light and easy to start, and easy to pickup off the ground after a dump over, and is green sticker, please let me know!!!!!

B.

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No difference with a 13T??? :applause: I found a huge difference with the 13T.

I've been thinking of changing to a 13. Did you shorten the chain a link or is there enough adjustment?

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Unless your chain is stretched a lot, ther should be more than enough adjustment for the 13.

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I've been thinking of changing to a 13. Did you shorten the chain a link or is there enough adjustment?

I too found a big difference after changing to a 13t....IMO, if your riding the tight woods and technical stuff you have to run with a 13t...now that I swapped my dyno jetted cvk to a 36 pumper, it's a good match since I ride mostly in my lower gears. :applause:

I found shortening the stock chain was not necessary.

Sangair

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Mmaxed - No problem. Like I said, I was smiling. You surmised correctly - the Kibblewhite stainless valves are now toast. (Actually, I can probably squeek a few more rides if I'm willing to shim again.) I don't believe that anyone really knows definatively what the problem with hi performance 4stroke dirt bike valves is. I am soooooooo disapointed in Kibblewhite. They told me "put them in and your problems (the KLX's valve problems) are OVER". That is just not the case. And my situation is not an anomoly. I have two KLX's that got the Kibblewhite valve treatment at the same time and the intakes closed down tight almost simultaneously on both bikes. So close together that it was spooky. My buddy who did the same treatment to his KLX 2 months later is starting to show signs of his intakes heading south also. Very dissapointed. I got better life out of the stock valves when they were new.

So, because of the limitations and focuses of bike designs, I've come to realize that ideally I might need 2 bikes: one for technical stuff that is very progressive and controlled (klx), and one for more open riding that is more of a beast(something bigger). Of course I'm constantly wracking my brain to figure out what would be the perfect "do it all" bike that could do everything excellent, but as yet I haven't been able to find the answer. If anyone has the answer to my ever-perplexing question of the perfect bike that is awsome everywhere, light and easy to start, and easy to pickup off the ground after a dump over, and is green sticker, please let me know!!!!!

B.

Brian, there is no perfect bike. You can go a long ways in getting there by customizing for your needs, but even then there will be compromises. For me, even with the valve issues, the KLX comes about as close as it gets. It's a 4s with very tractable power delivery with the CVK/dynojet and superb tight handling. The power delivery is superb on very tight singletrack and I often find the KLX almost laughingly ahead of much bigger and more powerful bikes. Out in the open it doesn't have enough juice, but that is a problem I'm willing to live with. I'd rather get left a bit behind in the wide open than be bulldogging a big heavy beast with too much power in the tight stuff. For a dual sported 4s, the KLX is pretty light. Not the lightest, but right down there. It's super easy to start and even for those once in a blue moon times where the bike gets hopelessly flooded, I now know the secret of getting it started easily. And, most importantly, mine is green stickered AND plated. That alone puts it out ahead of 80% of the competition IMO. So, unless the valve thing gets too out of control, I'll be sticking with the KLX for awhile longer. I will admit to looking for an older model KDX that's green stickered and plated. If I could find one, I'd probably snap it right up.

bp

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