Starting a hot bike 426 on the track

I think that TT should have a forum dedicated to starting the bike.

I have a 2001 YZ 426. I know the starting drill by heart. So no need to respond with the basic process. In fact, when I first got the bike I stalled it so many times that I can restart it in my sleep. Usually my bike starts with no problems 3 - 4 kicks. Lately I have been having a real problem getting it to restart out on the track. If I drag is back to the truck and put it up on the stand, it will start with no problems, but it's just a long walk pushing the bike back to the truck every time that I stall it. It will also bump start pretty easy as well.

Here are some changes that I have noticed lately:

1). I've been going to a couple of new tracks, I tend to be slower at new tracks. Do I just need to take it somewhere and blow it out?

2). The idle seems to be low. It seems like I really have to feed it the gas to keep it going. (but this could just be in my head). If I have the hot-start button open the bike seems to almost idle at the right speed. It's a little high, but it gurgles right along.

3). The humidity is about 100% here in Ohio. It just won't rain. Previously when I could get it to restart on the track, the weather was kind-of cool and dry.

4). I tend to stall it in a corner when I'm on the gas. Maybe I'm just flooding it and the push back to the truck just lets the flood clear.

5). I don't always drain the float bowl when I'm done riding. I'm always in a hurry and sometimes i just don't do it.

6). Maybe I'm just tired. On the stand I usually get a solid kick. On the track, the suspension compresses and I lose some kick. I always hold the cross-bar so I'm not turning the throttle as I kick it.

The cure-all is to change the plug. Whenever I change the plug, the bike fires right up. The old plug looks good. It is black, but not wet and no gunk. The electrode wear looks good too.

Any thoughts?

seems you have solved your problem already.,learn to use a hot start correctly and might I suggest a flywheel wt.

My buddy had an issue with his 426 getting hard and harder to start when it get warm. He checked the valve clearance and sure enough they were out of spec. When I switched over to the 450 Cam in mine, I checked and double checked my valve clearances and made my adjustments. My thoughts might be to check your valve clearances, even if they arent out of spec, its a good idea so you have peace of mind with them. Another avenue might be to check your jetting, or try making some adjustments. If you havent already, definately look into the 450 cam mod, it makes starting it a lot easier, especially if its hot, and your tired on the track and trying to do the drill in the heat of the moment can leave you wanting to pull off the track rather than keep riding once you get it fired up again. Anytime I am on the track and I lay it over, normally I can hot start it in a few kicks, if not, the drill for hot starting when it wont start is to hold the throttle WOT, pull in the decompression lever, and give it 10 kicks through, let the throttle go, let the decomp lever go, and then try starting as normal, this tends to work also when it becomes a bear to get fired back up on the track...

Great advice CHILLS....

Your problem is jetting. Your FS/pilot jet is a little rich.

When it get's hot and humid the proper jetting is a little tricky with the stock needles. JD's needles are better. But nevertheless you need to make sure and turn the FS in (leaner) when it is hotter or more humid - probably a 1/2 to whole turn. You may even need a leaner pilot.

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