Clearing a flood w/ a Hot Cam???

My 2001 426 came with the Hot Cam mod on it. It seems to work pretty well. The decompression lever has also been removed. The guy said that you don't need it any more and Hot Cam's seems to agree. My question is, how do you clear a flooded carb without the decompression lever? I've tried to hold the throttle wide open and just kick it without the ability to hold the decompression lever in, but it never seems to do anything. I usually end up pushing the bike back to the truck and putting it up on the stand. It seems to restart every time (after I take a nap from pushing it all that way). :D

Turn it through slowly a time or three with the throttle held wide open. If that doesn't seem to help, what I find effective is to hold the throttle open and just sit still like that for about 30-45 seconds and let the engine's heat clear it out. Raising the idle speed half a turn or so temporarily sometimes helps too.

Bingo! That's the one fly in the whole "decompressor cam" mod ointment. There are merits to a manually operated decompression system. I just did the hotcam, and basically I still have to "find" the compression stroke and kick per "the drill" to get an easy start. It just makes it a little easier to kick through whereas before it would have been impossible without the compression release.

Do you still have the decompression lever hooked up? Last night I had the same problems again. Every time I would stall, I had a really tough time getting it going again. In the spring I had no problems, but now I just give up and find a hill to bump it.

If I bump start it, it'll go right away, but I can kick forever and nothing. I'm trying to get ready to race again, and if I stalled it, it would be a DNF for sure.

I think that my riding has also changed since the spring, I've been working on cornering more and am usually on the gas when it cuts out. I gotta remember to get the RPM's up a little more when I release the clutch so that it won't bog and cut-out.

I'm thinking about reattaching the decompression lever and going back to "The Drill" to see if that does anything.

I don't have a problem kicking it without the decompression lever, but the engine just doesn't seem to fire. I actually had some luck if I totally jumped my body up in the air so that I was kicking with my full weight rather than leaning the bike and just using the force of my right leg.

The other thing that always works is putting the bike up on the stand. It'll always start on the second kick if it's on the stand.

Any help is appreciated. I'm gonna have the strongest right leg in the world.

If you stall it on the gas you gotta use the hot start feature. For best results (at least with the hotcam design) you still need to find TDC, get it over the hump and kick. I'm curious as to the difference in the decompression mechanism of the OEM cam vs hotcam, specifically timing and duration of decomp. I've got my valves shimmed a little on the loose side, if I shimmed them to the tight end of the spec I'd get another .002 in. of decomp relief. Probably enough to make a difference, but I'm not racing so I don't care about quick restarts. I'd rather have them a little loose than tight. The whole point of the mod for me was getting rid of the lever, cable, and weight, (and something to do while it's hot) so I wouldn't put it back on.

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