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lowering link ?

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I was wondering if the front needs to be lowerd when useing the link and how this can be accomplished? How do you like the link? Thanks

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When I first bought my bike, we put on the lowering link with taller bar mounts to raise up the front forks. I have since had spacers put in the forks and revalved, removing the bar mounts and placing the forks in their original position. I was having trouble turning due to not being able to raise the forks up enough to balance out how much the link lowered the back. It has made a BIG difference in how it handles. I highly suggest having a professional suspension person install the spacers if you will use the lowering link for very long. It wasn't as expensive as I thought it would be.

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A few comments, first you do need to drop the forks, the idea is to always keep the drop the same in the front as the back to try and maintain the geometrry of the bike as close to stock as possible, but keep in mind the forks are weak below the stock clamping position so be careful. It is better to have them shortened. Also keep in mind the links change the leverage, and ultimitly do the same as changing the valving, not for the better, so you might need to revalve your rear shock to correct after the link. If nothing else you will need to reset your sag

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So let me see if I understand. The link will make the shock softer because of the leverage of the lowering link and the front of the bike should be lowered the same amount that the link drops the bike. I only way 150 and ride trails only so I'm thinking that the softer shock might be good for me. Does that sound reasonable? And the spacers that go in the fork are removeable right.

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I have a Kouba l lowering link on my 250X and I raised the forks about 3/4" above the top clamp to try to even the bike up a bit. There is a place called Slavens Racing, in CO I think, that will shorten your fork springs for about $250 or so. I can't remember what they quoted me. Check them out.

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I have a Kouba l lowering link on my 250X and I raised the forks about 3/4" above the top clamp to try to even the bike up a bit. There is a place called Slavens Racing, in CO I think, that will shorten your fork springs for about $250 or so. I can't remember what they quoted me. Check them out.

Before you ride again, drop your Forks back down.

The clamping area is thicker where the Clamps are designed to grip the Fork Legs. Even the Manual tells you not to raise them up.

If you think it's expensive to get your Forks professionally Shortened/Lowered, wait until you have to replace both upper Fork Legs because they were distorted-crushed from being clamped in the wrong spot.

As far as Spacers, yes, it's a reversible modification. Talk to Fineline in Huntington Beach, CA., they did a couple of the Ladies Bikes in Desert MC (including my Wife's Bike), works great for those that are "inseam challenged".

"Shortening the Fork Springs" is NOT the correct way to lower the Bike. When Fineline did the Lowering, internal Spacers were fabricated to MECHANICALLY alter the Forks. Yes, they used different Fork Springs to get the Preload-Sag correct but there is more to it than that including Re-Valving. We did try the Kouba Link on a CRF 230 and I was VERY IMPRESSED with the workmanship, customer service and professional attitude of Norm Kouba. I would recommened that you try his products, we did and were not happy with the results and he HAPPILY refunded our Money upon returning the Link.

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So let me see if I understand. The link will make the shock softer because of the leverage of the lowering link and the front of the bike should be lowered the same amount that the link drops the bike. I only way 150 and ride trails only so I'm thinking that the softer shock might be good for me. Does that sound reasonable? And the spacers that go in the fork are removeable right.

NO, That is not correct.

The Link changes the "Starting Point" of the Suspension Travel, it does NOTHING to make it "Softer". (It mecahnically lowers the linkage)

As a side note, if you have your Shock professionaly Shortened, it will change the "Rising Rate" of the Rear Suspension and start the travel in the "Steep" part of the curve. Although having internal Spacers fabricated is the BEST way to lower your Bike, it is not without it's drawbacks.

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