Lowering Links

I fitted a set of Talon lowering links ( same as Kouba 1's) and removed 1 to 2 inches of foam from the seat the day I bought my DRZ. I am 5'8" tall and only have a 28" in-seam.

I also pushed the forks up through the yokes by 1 inch. I have tried every adjustment I could, and could not get the suspension to work properly with the links in.

Today I removed the links, and the bike is transformed. The suspension now works, no wallowing, no bouncing, it just gets on and does the job it should. I have left the forks as they were, and the handling seems fine. Which is just as well, because I can only get 1 toe down, and even then it is a bit of a stretch.

Now is it just me, or is it not possible to get these lowering links to work properly. I assume with a full shock rebuild they will work, which sort of defeats the point of the links (easy). It would be easier to just shorten the shock by half an inch. On the 2000 model this would be very easy, just remove the fork from the bottom of the shock, cut the damper rod and re-thread it.

No rebound damping on the bottom of my shock, or am I missing something here ??

Neil. :D

I have not heard of anyone who has had real good luck getting their suspension to work after installing them.

Neil,

Were you using the bushings out of the stock links, the ones you have to pop out and pop into the after market links??

just my guess, with the longer linkage arm, somehow it allow lesser weight to compress easily on the original, meaning more leverage on the stock spring rate.

to help abit, try cranking more preload may works.

The problem, at least in my theory, is that the leverage doesn't change in a uniform ratio throughout it's stroke. No one seems to be able to get the valveing right for the change. It doesn't help that there really aren't enough of them out there to make it profitable for a suspension person/company to develop the valving stack to make it work....that is if there is one. :D

Neil,

Were you using the bushings out of the stock links, the ones you have to pop out and pop into the after market links??

No, the Talon Links come ready bushed.

Neil.

:D

The kouba link units have to have the copper bushings from the stock links, just checking! I had the DRZ 1 links on my bike in supermoto trim, It did not effect the handleing like that. But then again, my DRZ rarly goes offroad. :D

Linco,

Neither does my DRZ (go of road much, that is) How much do you weigh ?

I am about 210 lb Is this the difference ??

Neil. :D

Did you properly set the sag when you put the link on?

Did you properly set the sag when you put the link on?

Yes, well as good as I could. I tried taking the race sag down to 3 inches, couldn't go any less as that was with the pre-load adjusters wound all the way down. It also left the bike with no static sag at all. And even then it was way to soft.

I have come to the conclusion that the only way to satisfactorily lower the back of a DRZ is to get the shock modified (shortened), or to have a custom shock built to suit. Removing the Links and setting the race sag has left the bike slightly higher than the lowering links with 3 inch sag.

Neil.

:D

I have come to the conclusion that the only way to satisfactorily lower the back of a DRZ is to get the shock modified (shortened), or to have a custom shock built to suit.

Even though I do not have the link and therefore haven't had to deal with it, I've ridden with bronco enough to know that it does some really funky things to the suspension action. It's like it has way too little compression and rebound dampening. If you get the spring set where it should be then the bike will still want to bottom out and then kick up in the rear, at least that is what it looks like from behind.

Even though I do not have the link and therefore haven't had to deal with it, I've ridden with bronco enough to know that it does some really funky things to the suspension action. It's like it has way too little compression and rebound dampening. If you get the spring set where it should be then the bike will still want to bottom out and then kick up in the rear, at least that is what it looks like from behind.

For the people who absolutely have to use a lowering link (that was me until I got brave) what would happen if you changed the shock oil for a thicker one and put a bigger rubber stop in the bottom of the shock.

A downside of the links is to increase travel and to let the tyre make contact with the underside of the mudguard. The bigger/longer stop would prevent this. Or just get the shock and if necessary the spring shortened. This is what I will do, if the short legs make it necessary. :D

Neil.

:D:D

Linco,

Neither does my DRZ (go of road much, that is) How much do you weigh ?

I am about 210 lb Is this the difference ??

Neil. :D

Hey Neil

I weigh in at 215 and use the heavier racetech 5.7 rear spring. I also got rid of the 2001 drz400s rear shock and bought a DRZ400E model rear shock from burned. I don't run the lower link anymore. I'm 5 foot 11 inchs tall so the bike does not feel to tall for me.

My bike handles on road and off road very nicely!!

At 140 lbs, with the Talon Links, and left the shock setting as standard, no problem at all for me!

Think I'll stick to my diet!

At 140 lbs, with the Talon Links, and left the shock setting as standard, no problem at all for me!

Think I'll stick to my diet!

i'm at 145 - 150lbs with the kouba 1 links and stock settings with sag adjusted for me and it works fine as well

I have to be honest, I really started to dislike my bike with the drz1 link on it. I am 185ish and about 5,9 and had the stock suspension adjusted by burned originally and loved the bike to death.

I got a wild hair up my butt and decided to try the link just because I had this crazy notion that being able to touch the ground flat footed with both feet would be way cool. So after doing the link and dropping the forks I went to the 5.7 rear spring And set the sag at 3.75 with all the settings almost maxed. I hit bottum on even moderate sized jumps and the bike felt squirly. I upped the preload to 3.25 and the rear wheel was sliding all over the frickin place and still hitting bottom.

Like I said, I really almost started to dislike riding the bike so I decided to change back to the stock link and just today went on my first ride since I changed too the drz1 link last season. All I can say is the bike is completely transformed. I rode almost 100 miles today at my local riding spot(Rampart) and had that gidding feeling the whole time. Hooked up like crazy and soaked up everything like a cadilac. I really can't believe how much the link comprimises the stock suspension. I think I would listen to motoinmoabs advice and have the suspension lowered by a local shop before doing this mod.

I know that their are people on here that are using the links successfully but I would never recommend this mod to anyone.

lol, but if anyone does want to try them I am selling mine cheap!!!!

I know that their are people on here that are using the links successfully but I would never recommend this mod to anyone.

Like who? Not me for sure :D

Mine comes off in a few days......Right now I have to install this shiny new cyl and piston from MT that hit my door today :D

My links are off now and it's so much better it's just hard to explain without sounding goofy. For some of us they are a terrible mod. I'm glad to hear that they work for some of you because it's nice to spend a little money and get a good result. I'm 175# and tried the Race Tech 5.7 spring with the DRZ-2 link, there's just no way those things work right. 10guy has explained the ride effect perfectly is his posts here. For Sale, cheap, I'll even pay for shipping...

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