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Oil change !

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Ok so I'm about to do my first oil change since getting my bike and was wondering what I need other than oil and oil filters? and just a quickie I drain all the oil out first then filter right ?

p.s. i'VE HEARD ITS EASIER TO CHANGE WITH A KICKSTAND OR TRIANGLE BUT i dont have neither does anyone have any tips for this or tricks as to drain the oil and I have thoroughly read the thumper faq site on how to do it !!!Thank you soo much !!

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Drain your Oil, then change the Oil Filter. Do not warm up the bike prior to draining the oil.

Why>

A) You have to drain the oil from the tank instead, and some oil will still be left in the sump.

:D It moves around any settled metal shavings.

Yes it makes it easier on a triangle stand. Or you can buy a Billy Who Man Funnel.

http://shop.thumpertalk.com/catalogs/White_Brothers_2005/default.asp?p=458

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Get the Billy Who Factory Fill bottle. Its idiot proof for filling the oil in the WR. I love mine, I wouldn't have it any other way. The best 25 bucks you will spend.....just my two cents.

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you will need the oil & oil filter, and lets not forget the correct tools 12mm socket with short extention (or similar tool) 8mm socket and 5mm allen key. a substitue for the frame stand or triangle stand is a wall or tree. just rest the clutch side grip against the wall or tree so the bike lean in that direction a little bit so the oil will drian oil into your oil drain pan.

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Drain your Oil, then change the Oil Filter. Do not warm up the bike prior to draining the oil.

Why>

A) You have to drain the oil from the tank instead, and some oil will still be left in the sump.

:D It moves around any settled metal shavings.

Yes it makes it easier on a triangle stand. Or you can buy a Billy Who Man Funnel.

http://shop.thumpertalk.com/catalogs/White_Brothers_2005/default.asp?p=458

Thats about as wrong as you can get.

1: you should warm the bike up before draining it. The idea is to move around those shavings and get them suspended in the oil so they drain out with the oil rather than clumping up in the bottom of the crankcase just to be set free once you are done swapping the oil.

2: follow the manual, not someones mistaken idea of oil changes. It's your bike treat it like you own it not them.

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Do you guys recommend removing/cleaning the frame strainer? I started to do mine on the first oil change, but it was the mother of all b$tch&s to remove so I didn't do it.

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I have found assembly sealant boogers in 2 out of 5 yzf's in the frame screen. Never found another thing after the first couple of checks on it.

I would say to be on the safe side check it at least the first couple of oil swaps. After that You can bypass draining the frame with the frame bolt and drain it via the oil feed tube. It will take a minute or so longer draining all of the frame oil but you need to drain that oil line anyhow.

One tip on the oil line, and yes you do need to drain it ya lazy bastiches. You need to push it up against the crankcase by hand and then tighten the bolt down. If you just run the bolt down pulling the oil line up tight you run the risk of pinching the o-ring, and causing it to leak. It's not under pressure so it will leak in drips. I carry a couple spare o-rings just in case.

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Follow the exact advice in the ThumperFaq:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil_change.htm#Strain

Warm the bike up first, frame drain bolt, crankcase drain bolt, then do the filter. Add in 1.27 liters of oil...I reccomend Maxima 15w50 100% ester-based synthetic, but only use a synthetic after you break the bike in. Better yet, for the first two changes or so, keep it Yamalube, then switch to another brand synthetic. Oh yeah, and make sure you tighten all the bolts to the proper torque specs.

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