New to DRZs...couple of odd, non-faq questions...

I think I will be getting a DRZ in the future and I have been doing a lot of research both here and advrider.com.

I'm gonna avoid regurgitating any repetitive/faq questions, so I have thought of a few things I'd like answers about... I'm sorry if they've been covered!

First- the 3x3 airbox mod. what is the significance of 3x3? Is it simply the largest hole you can make, or is a 9" sq. hole important? If the size of the hole is dynamically important, wouldn't a 3.385" dia. circle (same surface area) be a better shaped hole considering the structural integrity of the airbox? Has anyone experienced cracks in their airbox after adding a 3x3" square?

Second- With all the mcct talk I see, should this be something I consider modifying if I get an 05 or 06 model bike? If the number if failures have dropped after M.Y. 2003, can this be attributed to specific valve train changes from Suzuki? Are the valves still 2-piece?

Third- This may be a little "faqy".... I currently have a 1998 Buell S1W...I will probably keep the bike and add a DRZ. If so, the DRZ will be purely for play. Irregardless of price, would I be better off getting an SM and a set of off-road gear for occasional trail riding, or an S and an SM set-up for occasional road-play? I am definitely interested in playing with a supermotard on asphalt, but I don't want to destroy my occasional dirt capability.

Thanks for the help ladies and gents-

#1 I cut a 2.5x4 hole in my airbox and it's just fine after a couple of years.

#2 the fact that there are any failures with an ACCT should make you want to change it. There are zero failures with a properly setup $60 MCCT. that is cheap insurance.

http://mutualwave.com/images/WJS/100_0037.JPG

I did much more than a 3x3 and have no reason to believe it will ever crack.

Yes...change the ACT for a MCCT. Foolish and lazy not too.

As for S or SM. Either way could work. I would price out both options and go with which ever you can do cheapest.

The name 3x3 is just that, a name. The airbox is not a stressed member so no it won't crack. A round hole with radius edges will flow better than a square hole and will probably be ever-so-slightly quiter and more responsive. Like .00001% better.

The updated ACCT is okay (you will have to understand that Most every Old school DR rider has a bad experinance with the ACCT. Change it if you have #60 bucks to spend on it and gain some peice of mind but it will probably be okay to go until you do some other mods to consume your money first. Your call.

Nobody has commented on #3 yet: It is by far easier to make an S a better hooligan bike than it is to make an SM into a good off-roader. All you really need to make an S is a good set of road slicks but the SM needs more than a set of knubbies. Although that is a good start. :D If you can find a set for the 17" rims. It depends on which you will be doing more.

With you having a Buell (and money not a variable), I might even suggest that you look into an E model and get it titled with a good set of road slicks. Any DR will feel sub-par when it comes to power compared with your Buell but an E model with some slicks will make your Buell feel like a dump truck in turns under 60 MPH. Dirt is not even a comparison.

Third- This may be a little "faqy".... I currently have a 1998 Buell S1W...I will probably keep the bike and add a DRZ. If so, the DRZ will be purely for play. Irregardless of price, would I be better off getting an SM and a set of off-road gear for occasional trail riding, or an S and an SM set-up for occasional road-play? I am definitely interested in playing with a supermotard on asphalt, but I don't want to destroy my occasional dirt capability.

Thanks for the help ladies and gents-

Depends on how serious you want to get into SuperMotard. If you want to go to the track twice a year then get the S, otherwise I would get the SM.

I just bought an S last month and now would like to SM. If I had it to do over again I would buy the SM and get dirt wheels, etc.

The off road wheels and tires will be cheaper

SM differences -

Seat height nearly 2 inches lower

Wheelbase 1 inch shorter

Inverted front forks

Maybe more - these are the ones I know of.

See specs here

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_dr-z_400_sm_2005.php

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/suzuki_dr-z_400_s_2005.php

-

3x3 is roughly the size left over when you pull the snorkle/air intake restrictor out of the E/K/R models, that is where the name came from.

Yes the valves are still suzuki two piece specials

I think it'd be a toss up between the s/sm. With the sm you would get a theoritically better fork and brakes to start with.

Nobody is reporting any problems with the newer acct -- Suzuki redesigned them -- only on the earlier bikes are there any problems.

Really :D

Ok,, well before you decide that,, and inform a few thousand DRZ riders of the "facts" how about ya search things like "cam chain" and "stretch".

It's not all about complete failure :D

To each his own.. not wrong for doing it your own way,, But lets just make sure all of the pertinent info is available to make good decisions.

First- the 3x3 airbox mod. what is the significance of 3x3? Is it simply the largest hole you can make, or is a 9" sq. hole important? If the size of the hole is dynamically important, wouldn't a 3.385" dia. circle (same surface area) be a better shaped hole considering the structural integrity of the airbox? Has anyone experienced cracks in their airbox after adding a 3x3" square?

It works, nothing has been shown to work better, and it causes no problems.... :D

Second- With all the mcct talk I see, should this be something I consider modifying if I get an 05 or 06 model bike? If the number if failures have dropped after M.Y. 2003, can this be attributed to specific valve train changes from Suzuki? Are the valves still 2-piece?

See the post above this one :D And yes,, they are still crappy 2 piece valves,, that do have somewhat of a history of becoming 2 pieces while in use.

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