I have a problem to shift to newtral gear during idling and whenever I stop at signals

on roads I have to shift to neutral before completely stop or I have to turn off the engine to do it. Is it normal with all new 400EXC and will this be improved soon?

I don't know about normal, but my '01 520 is the same way.


Pretend it's flat and give it the gas.

I have talked to a couple of guys with the same problem. Getting ALL the air out of the clutch hydraulics will solve the problem,and make sure you use mineral oil (jack oil works ) not ATF/ ETC. Sometimes it is a bitch to get the air out.


400 EXC--stock&great

YAMAHA 250--sold

250 sherco

That seems right. My bike does not like to roll in gear with the clutch pulled in. I'll bleed it this weekend.



Pretend it's flat and give it the gas.

Mine does that as well. At the lights, It does not want to go into neutral. And sometimes I find a false neutral while riding. But I think that is because I am still getting used to the Tech 8's.

My 520 is easy to get into neutral if it isn't running, and they do that so you won't upshift from first into neutral. Try going from second to neutral. It's much easier on my bike that way.

I have a 01 400sx and I am having the same prob. I have bled the air out and am still having the trouble. Please tell me that this can be fixed. When I first got the bike I had no trouble getting it in neutral but after the first oil change the trouble started.

Thanks for all you guys' input.

I had been having this problem since I rode

the bike at the very first time. When I changed the engine oil after 3 hours of initial breaking-in I felt it was improved a bit but is remaining the same so far while I expected every oil change would improve it little by little like the other new bikes which I had the problems.

When I had such problems, shift to neutral with gas worked well but not for 400EXC.I have tried everything I know but only two

ways(stop the engine or neutral before stop) are working. It feels like "losen cable in

cable system" which can be solved very easily by just titening the cable but what can I do with hydraulic? More oil or thicker oil to increase the hydraulic pressure sounds reasonable to me if there is no built-in pressure or stroke adjuster.

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