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Swap DRZ 400S carb on to E model?

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Me and my brother have a drz 400 each, mine is the "s" model and his is the "E" model, what we want to do is swap the carbs over!, now we have got the Keihin fcr carb on to the s model with no problems the bike seems to run great, but we cannot get the "S" model carb to run properly on the "E" model, is it possible to fit it or are there to many problems with this?.

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The "S" carb will bolt right on to the "E" and run fine. Where are you having problems?

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We want to change the carbs because he hasnt had much experience on drz's and he finds that the E model is way to agressive for him, and i thought that it would make a good upgrade for me to swap the carbs over, Two birds with one stone!,

The problem im having is that the bike has no power at all, i mean it seems as tho somthing is realy holding it back?.

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fair enough ,just curious

sorry i cant help with the running problems ,ask burned he's the expert

HTH

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Sorry man, I was just playing. I honestly hadn't noticed that you were from the UK until I saw Neil's post. Sounds like he's got the real answer to your problem.

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Sorry man, I was just playing. I honestly hadn't noticed that you were from the UK until I saw Neil's post. Sounds like he's got the real answer to your problem.

Hey no problems at all johny its all good fun🤣:banghead:

tried neil's method and its cured it!🤣 , i dont think the solenoid is faulty because i can hear it working when i disconnect and reconnect it again, so this leaves the other theory that neil mentioned "The Air Leak", im going to check all the pipes just incase one has a split were i may have trapped it.

Thanks for your help guys🤣:applause:

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Neil. You are right about the piston control valve. I over looked that. But it is so easy to over-ride with a plug or activate from any switched power I still have to go with my original advise "just bolt on (with minor mods)". :banghead:

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Neil. You are right about the piston control valve. I over looked that. But it is so easy to over-ride with a plug or activate from any switched power I still have to go with my original advise "just bolt on (with minor mods)". :applause:

It's easier to just remove the valve and block the hose connections.

There are only 2 off them, 1/ in to the air boot, 2/ the top of the carb diaphragm chamber.

The bonus of removal is you can then remove the float chamber for servicing or re-jetting with out removing the carb.

And that is a BIG bonus, change the main jet in less than 10 minuets, instead of 1 hour.

And as I have now been through about 10 jet changes, I have saved a full working day. (What's one of them ???)🤣

Neil.

:banghead:🤣🤣

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