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Replacing valves and piston (not a valve theory thread!)

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So most of you know one of my intakes went on my 05. I have brand new valves (intake and exhaust) springs, retainers, keepers, and I'm waiting on the seals. What do I need to do to put these valves in? The seats have a few lines around them that I don't really like. Will putting the new valves in without cutting the seats do anything?

And what about my cylinder, I brought it to the dealer and they said it looked good. the cross hatching is still perfect. I'm going to put my piston in, in a few minutes. What should I spray the line with because I'm rebuilding it dry.

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Put some bluing on the valve and tap it on the seat(dont twist the valve) to see where and how wide the seat is. The manual explains what the seating surface should be. If its not right then dont install the new valves or they will soon be junk.

This asssemble dry thing flys in the face of conventional engine assy.

I know people say it works but I dont know if I could bring myself to do it. I went to school for and worked in the auto machining buisness for a few years way back when and it would never be done there/then.

I would go half way and assemble with a light petroleum based penetrating oil like WD-40 before I did it dry.

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Assemble it dry. Trust me. I did it and it runs so much better than before, no burning oil and no oil in the overflow tube. As far as the valve seats go, follow the manual's instructions. If your in doubt, send it out. lol that ryhmed. But yeah, i would play it on the safe side and get them re-cut.

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Wouldn't building a bike dry make the cylinder volnurable during the first start-up? Even if it did kick over on the first try, that millisecon of no engine oil being in the engine could mess the cylinder up right? I've heard this argues back and forth before. Just seeing what yall think. :banghead:

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I did some motor work with a guy that used to build motors for Rick Ryan, Magoo and some others. He was well thought of in the industry. What he used to do was the following:

He'd put in the new piston and or rings in the cylinder and bolt it down WITHOUT the head on it. Now, he'd hand crank over the engine fast and spray in electric contact cleaner into the jug every 4-7 hard strokes of the kick starter. Every minute or so he'd bring the piston to the bottom of the stroke and wipe out the cylinder with a paper towel. Then spray in some more contact cleaner and crank by hand on the kick starter rapidly. He'd repeat this process for ~5 mins. What he told me this did was help get the rings to be "sanded" down to the shape of the jug and get them to seat. Also the electrical contact cleaner doesn't have any oil in it and it was just used to wash off the grit from the rings being slightly sanded down. I've done this since on all my engines and it works very very well.

PT

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I did some motor work with a guy that used to build motors for Rick Ryan, Magoo and some others. He was well thought of in the industry. What he used to do was the following:

He'd put in the new piston and or rings in the cylinder and bolt it down WITHOUT the head on it. Now, he'd hand crank over the engine fast and spray in electric contact cleaner into the jug every 4-7 hard strokes of the kick starter. Every minute or so he'd bring the piston to the bottom of the stroke and wipe out the cylinder with a paper towel. Then spray in some more contact cleaner and crank by hand on the kick starter rapidly. He'd repeat this process for ~5 mins. What he told me this did was help get the rings to be "sanded" down to the shape of the jug and get them to seat. Also the electrical contact cleaner doesn't have any oil in it and it was just used to wash off the grit from the rings being slightly sanded down. I've done this since on all my engines and it works very very well.

PT

yes this dry brakecleaner meathod works very good also on the stubborn hard to seat motors,

lots of guys do it this way also :banghead::applause:

i use the hell out of the brakecleaner ,

you must hone it and really clean the piston,rings,cylinder and head ,

and you don't want any oil on the cylinder or piston,

wd40 is the worst thing to try to put on a fresh top end 🤣

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So most of you know one of my intakes went on my 05. I have brand new valves (intake and exhaust) springs, retainers, keepers, and I'm waiting on the seals. What do I need to do to put these valves in? The seats have a few lines around them that I don't really like. Will putting the new valves in without cutting the seats do anything?

And what about my cylinder, I brought it to the dealer and they said it looked good. the cross hatching is still perfect. I'm going to put my piston in, in a few minutes. What should I spray the line with because I'm rebuilding it dry.

you must hone any cylinder to brake the glaze ,

most of the dealer guys have no clue 🤣 -----and they also don't have a hone either :applause:🤣

you want to wash everthing up with hot soap and water , after the cylinder has been honed,

and then i use brakecleaner to clean it all up again and keep my hands clean while assembling ,

and then kick it over slowly dry quite afew times before you put oil in the case ,

then fire it , get it stink hot and go race it :banghead:

i like to dress up the seats with my stones or my old new way cutters ,

the shop guy should have been able to do this for you ,

but then again 🤣 --------he has more than likely has never done one ,

and probably dose not have the tools to do it 🤣 .

generally the seats on the honda heads are not hurt and if you read the manuel and use a sharpie marker you can see that the seat is within specs .

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