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mcct for 05drz-sm?

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hey guys just wondering why exactly a mcct would benifit me over my stock setup? critical ? how easy is it to install and adjust? :banghead:

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Ensures that a mechanical tensioner failure can not happen

Doesn't stretch the chain like the auto cam chain stretcher

Easy to install and adjust

Needs adjustment very seldom

Even though the latest design has no known, to us at least, failures on a drz they have appearantly failed on other bikes using the same design

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i was told that this problem has been fixed for the 04,05 models although well have to wait and see :banghead:

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The problem of stretching the chain has never been addressed.

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The problem of stretching the chain has never been addressed.

i don't think there is a chain out yhere that dosn't stretch.i herd the auto tentioner sometimes broke

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Yes all chains stretch but the cam chain with the acct is put under more stress than necessary and that accellerates it's stretching.

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Why wait and see? When you can rest assured for less than $50 :applause:

I don't necessarly want that to happen... but is the chance of messing it up (rear hub tinker to get it on?) worth it when i know so little about the bike. I know with the help of you guys i could get it done🤣:banghead: but with no decent tools and still green grass on my ass i'm a bit hesitant.

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With butterflies and a $10 Durabilt tool kit I installed mine in about 20 min, with the help of this forum off course. Yes, it was a little nerve racking, but it was a simple procedure to do the burned method. The hardest part is getting good leverage, but if you unscrew the black breather box and unclamp a couple of the hoses attached to it, it will be easier :banghead:

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I got ten thumbs and I ride this to work in order to feed my family and pay the bills every day. I need this bike, therefore, I do what is necessary to promote its longevity, even if it scares me to jeopardize the next workday's ride. Here's a reprint of my MCCT story from a past thread.....

*******************************************

Anyway, the hardest thing about the whole job was tightening the inside allenhead bolt after installing the MCCT. I had to remove the midpipe heat shield and unscrew whatever that little black plastic vent box thing is on the frame to clear juuuuust enough swing of the 90deg allen wrench. Bit, by bit....slowly.

Out with the old was easy. EJ can do it and so can you. Forget about the ACCT, measuring the shaft for MCCT install or anything. Fuhgeddabowdit. Just take your new MCCT and run the bolt in and out a few times to get the feel for the unstressed resistance of the threads. You are doing all of this by feel, so develop your unladen baseline. It's your MCCT....Grok it in fullness.

Back the bolt out as far as you can and still fit it into the bike. You want to hit the guide noticeably by feeling the sudden resistance, so give yourself a good run-in distance for comparison's sake.

With that bolt extended full-out, mount the MCCT base to the head surface finger tight then walk each side in evenly taking turns in little steps until your fingers can't turn the allen wrench. Bi-tech means you're compressing the o-ring, anything else and you're seating a gasket. Either way, don't distort things by doing one side all the way and then the other.

Run the bolt in until you feel the resistance of the bolt end hitting the chain guide. Run it in a little further...then out a bit...then out until it releases pressure...in...out...you've got time, right? You're not in a hurry? Good. Get to know the feel so that at 10Krpm you're not locking up the rear wheel to the tune of $1800 just prior to a hospital trip costing ?????

With a good feel for the relationship of all pieces and how they act on each other, you'll know what it means to:

1) Run the bolt in until it touches.

2) Run it in another 1/2 turn.

3) Start the bike.

4) Back it out until you hear marbles-in-the-clothes-dryer noises and not much further.

5) Run it in until the noises stop.

6) Repeat 4 and 5 until you think you're happy with the contact point in this process. STAY OFF THE THROTTLE WHILE MCCT IS LOOSE.

7) Repeat 4 and 5, but this time add 1/4 turn to the "in" once the noise stops.

8) Run the lock nut down, hold bolt with a wrench (you want to maintain its position) while final tightening the lock nut. Tighten the lock nut with the zeal of one who likes to spend money on fun things and not replacing blown motorcycle engines.

Pay attention to the sounds that you are now very familiar with from your motor in its various stages in the heat cycle as you ride the first few days. Listen for the need to adjust based on what you hear cold, warm and hot.

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(((i was told that this problem has been fixed for the 04,05 models although well have to wait and see ))))

There's been no tensioner revision since o3, I'm at 36,000 miles with acct I did pop in a new cam chain at 30,000 miles but it would probably be due about now.

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UPDATE:

I had around 3800 miles on the bike when I wrote this. I now have 19.5K miles on it and I have only touched the MCCT because I wanted to during a valve clearance check. Never left spec.

Money well spent!

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Gday all.

Another Aussie here with one of these great bikes.

I too have a slightly noisy cam chain.

I have read what I can find about changing out this acct to the mcct, but could i ask do you have to worry about getting the piston a TDC first?

Is it just a matter of unbolting old, bolting in new? No worries about chain jumping teeth? Of corse i would not turn over anything whilst apart...

TT Rocks.

Cheers,

Ross.

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Welcome to TT Ross,

I have the same noise on my '05 SM, can anyone answer Ross' question?

Cheers,

Tony

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You want to remove the tank and valve cover. Remove the two plugs on the stator cover (left side). Rotate the engine to TDC, ensuring the cam lobes are pointing at 10 and 2 O'Clock. At this point, do NOT rotate the engine until you are done.Lock down (early style) or remove the center bolt (new style) of the cam chain tensioner and then remove it. Install the new MCCT. Tighten just right. Re-assemble. Warm the bike up, perform the final adjustment by ear.

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