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switching oil weights

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I have an 86 yamaha xt350. The manual says 20W40. I found some motorcycle oil that is 20w50. Do you think I will be alright using this?. I think it would do a better job of holding up against the extreme temperatures of the air cooled engine.

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The real reason Yamaha recommends 10w30 and 20w40 oils is to steer the motorcycle owner away from the modern automotive oils. Modern automotive lubes with a rating beyons SH have had so much zinc and phosphorus anti-scuff and anti-wear additive removed that they may create probs with tranny wear and camshaft wear in motorcycles. The 10w30 and 20w40 lubes are considered "obsolete" by automative standards and have a relaxed rule concerning the additive packages. You'll note that the new OEM Yamaha lubes are grade MA which is similar to the old automotive SG grade. This if a motorcycle oil says it is

API SL but also MA , it started out as a SL lube then was up-treated to MA, which then sort of negates the SL automotive rating.

As far as the service ratings of 10w30 and 20w40 go, 10w30 and 20w40 are replaced by 10w40 with 20w50 being not as thin as 10w40 at 210.D F. and so on.

OriginalDirt

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You seem to know your oil.

I'm using SAE40 performance standard SH SG SJ SF Caltex Havoline formula 3 motor oil on my air cooled Xl500R Honda scrambler. Recomended for hi mileage motors but not for heat stress.

At R12 or $2.50 (US) it is not a bad price for 500ml tin of oil compared to the R38 or $7 for 750ml of proper bike oil. I do about 400km per week with my bike in heavy traffic and it can get fairly hot and bothered on summer days.

I add a tin of oil per week so: R48 to R60 of the cheap oil compared to R150 to R200 of the more expensive kind. This could get costly considering that my fuel is about R450 per month.

What grade of oil will you recomend, taking price, heat stress and mileage in consideration.

Oil Spec (best rating is 4)

Protection against deposits 4

Maintain power and performance 3

Long drain 2

Improved economy 2

Extreme heat protection 2

Low temprature start-up 2

Reduce emissions 2

Minimise oil consumption 3

Suitable for high mileage 4

In hind sight this looks like a crap oil to me!!!

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In response to "Pikes"

I am not sure which brands of oil are sold in Spain, but to be in the safe range use one of the "factory" bands (Yamalubes, Honda HP4 etc.) or one of the motorcycle specific "euro-brands" or a US import such as Spectro or Bel-Ray.

The motorcycle multi-grades (10w40,10w50, 15w50,20w50) are stronger in every measurement than straight 40 oil. They lube better in cold temps, and stay in grade longer at high temps. Motorcycle oil is CHEAP insurance compared top the cost of replacement parts, time, labor, and non-riding time to facilitate repairs. Also, better oils will last onger and disappear slower in your application (uless you have a visible leak, or visibly burn oil). I am trying to be "not-specific" and trying to give you a large range from which you make you lubricant choices.

However in my experince, synthetic - petroleum blend oils last longer and have most of the attributes of full synthetic oils at a much friendlier cost.

The anti-scuff anti-wear additive chemicals bond stronger to the petroleum base stocks than they do to synthetic stocks. However, the petroleum stocks bond almost perfectly with the synthetic stocks , so the combination has a symbiotic effect and can out perform pure synthetics in most applications.

I usually go easily twice as long between oil changes with syn-blend lubes than with petroleum or pure synthetic lubes.

OriginalDirt

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