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DRZ overheating

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Ever since I replaced the right side radiator on my '01 DRZ400 after a crash, it's had a problem with overheating when stopped in the woods. The hot antifreeze is spewing out the overflow when it never did before. I've heard two theories and would like to figure out if either could be true. One says the the old cap isn't fitting the new radiator well enough to keep a vacume, and the other says one of the hoses between the overflow tank and radiator could be blocked thus stopping the recirculation effect. Any thoughts from the TT experts?

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You might have a vacume you need to bleed all the air out of the small screw on the top of the left rad as you sit on the bike......or it could be your cap :banghead:

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Both are possible, but are you sure you have bled all the air out of the system. There is a bleed screw on the top of the left radiator, and there may be more (I have not had a look)

Neil. :banghead::banghead:🤣

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Is this required of the S radiator as well when you change the fluid?

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You might have a vacume you need to bleed all the air out of the small screw on the top of the left rad as you sit on the bike......or it could be your cap :banghead:

I'll try the bleed screw first. Should this be done with the bike hot and while running?

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Not while hot! A properly operating cap does not keep a vacuum, it holds pressure when hot, as does the bleeders. Opening eather of them while hot is dangerous. There are two bleeders. One on the left Rad., one on the thermostat housing (on the front of the motor). Fill Rad. open thermo. bleeder, when air stops coming out close and top off Rad.,then open left Rad. bleeder,when air stops close and top off Rad. At this point there is probably still air in the system. Some people may start the bike momentarily to push the air out but I haven't. I rock the bike, squeeze the hoses, check the level again, open the bleeders again etc.... After about three cycles of this it should be good.

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take the bleed screw out (while the motor is cold)of the top of the left radiator.

start the bike.give the lower hose a few squeezes.you see the level drop.top off and go.

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Done all the above and she still spews antifreeze on the ground when sitting idle for more than 60sec on the side of the trail. What else could it be???

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they dont like to sit still.doesnt suprise me that it boils over qucikly.

I agree...but it didn't do this before the replaced right side rad. :banghead:

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are you sure the radiator cap is good?

did use the same cap?

did the severly over heat with previous rad damage?

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Replace your cap and see, I'm personally using one off a kx500 that waits a bit longer before it opens up. 1.6ATA vs 1.1ATA of the stocker. ATA is approximately 14.7psi, stands for atmospheres absolute.

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are you sure the radiator cap is good?

did use the same cap?

did the severly over heat with previous rad damage?

I don't know how to tell if this cap is any good. Yes I'm still using the same cap because it wasn't damaged from the branch that took out the radiator. I never ran the bike with the damage except to get back to the van that day.

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where did the radiator come from?its possible it plugged up from alumaseal or some crap like that.people try that junk all the time to fix the leaky water pump seal syndrome.

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where did the radiator come from?

Brand-new OEM replacement from the stealership.

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If all you did is replace the rad, I'm guessing the cap isn't sealing. Did it get damaged when the radiator did?

Yep, I have an 'S', but even at long traffic lights I haven't had the fan kick on.

This may not help you solve the problem, but they're sure a handy edition to the trouble shooting tool chest. Raytek MT4

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make sure there is no air in the system and replace the rad cap.

you can get the cap at any auto parts store.its a common foriegn car cap.

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Ordered a new cap yesterday (I was too late on the foriegn car idea) and will see if that takes care of the problem. Thanks guys!

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