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2005 DR650 jetting settlement

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After taking the carb apart twice, here is the happy median for fuel economy, filter protection (from rain and sand), and make you grin performance improvement on a poorly running California model DR 650.

1.) drill out brass screw and turn air screw out 1.5 to 2 turns (listen, it will tell you where it's happy as you are turning the screw on a warmed up bike) use a towel for the heat and I fabricated my own shorty screwdriver using a large cotter pin and my bench grinder)

2.) Open your dyno-jet kit and change the 140 main to a 150 main jet

3.) Change the needle to the one supplied with the kit and install clip at 4th position from the top.

4.)Install K/N air cleaner

5.)Remove top snorkel on air box and using a 1 inch drill, I installed 5 small vents with their mini filter foams (Uni-product #ufv-6) on the side air box lid. Drill the 1 inch holes from the back side of the cover on a scrap piece of wood for support. On the back side of the cover you will see the small supporting ridges of plastic, and of course,you drill in the center of these squares.

5.) Install K/n filter

6.) Serve with 2gallons of gas and a saucy country road.

I tried the 160 main jet with no side cover, as instructed with the dyno jet kit and did not like the idea of the air filter being so exposed. MY fuel economy also dropped. With the 150 main jet I got a honest 50 MPG. and still had thrills for dessert.

I'm open to any ideas or criticism, but feel like I have a muscle thumper compared to the wheezy slug that came off the showroom floor. P.S.///If you plan on riding in severe fine dusty conditions, It is my opinion that the K&N filter is a little too generous with air filtration. Don't take my word for it, but hold a K&N up to a light and you'll see the small holes that fine particles will bleed thru. I plan on using the K&N for street ,winter, and spring riding here in the Pacific N.W.. But, down in Baja or the desert.... :banghead: not on my upper end:thumbsup:

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Sounds like you have got it pretty well dialled in for a stock piped bike. The DJ kit is a winner from my perspective, especially that well tapered needle, I'm sure that makes a difference to my mid range, compared to that stock needle, which has as much taper as a matchstick! Worth forking out $15 to get one of Jesse's extended fuel screws as well, makes tweaking the pilot circuit a snap for varying altitudes, and no screwdrivers required. Oh, and the 14 toother adds lots to the acceleration of this bike as well. :banghead:

Cheers, dave

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Sounds like you got the idea, I have FMF power core, 160 main,needle 5th from the top, air box mod, second hole drilled in the carb slide, .5" cut from the slide return spring and 14/45 sprockets on stock 525 chain. there is no real standard it depends on what you want the bike to do. I do believe that this is and could be if set up correct for around the world adventure the best and most versatile bike. 1 point is its air cooled and if it won't over heat in 102 degree heat in the woods at speeds under 30 than wow!! 2 point is parts, a lot of stuff from older bikes trail and street will work on this bike. oh!! sorry got off the subject. :banghead:

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2 point is parts, a lot of stuff from older bikes trail and street will work on this bike. oh!! sorry got off the subject. :banghead:

What do you mean?

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What I mean is put in another country in a isolated area say like Mongolia with a bent fork or bad rim the parts off whats there are more likely to work on a DR cause the technology that this bike is built on is basic and 10 years old or better. no radiator or water pump, you could duck tape a carb to this thing or run metal frame is easy to weld. I have my second pipe on mine first was off a DRZ second off a CRF.

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2.) Open your dyno-jet kit and change the 140 main to a 150 main jet

So using the 150 Dyno Main jet is not changing it much at all... it's only

a ballhair bigger than the stock Mikuni 140.... hmmm maybe I should be going

leaner - I go stock tomorrow instead of to the 155. I guess with the stock

pipe not much main jet change is required at all.

Here is the Mikuni to DJ conversion table, scuse the spacing it gets a bit

out of wack... but you get the idea:

Mikuni Dynojet

140... 149.3

.........150

142.5 152.0

145... 154.7

.........155

147.5 157.3

150... 160

152.5 162.7

........165

155... 165.3

157.5 168.0

.........170

160... 170.7

162.5 173.3

.........175

165... 176.0

167.5 178.7

.........180

170... 181.3

172.5 184.0

.........185

175... 186.7

177.5 189.3

.........190

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:banghead: No problem, I got it from one of the other folks here.

it also explains why they are different:

DynoJet jets are marked according to the diameter of the hole in the

jet .. ie: DJ150 = 1.5mm and DJ175 = 1.75mm.

This is not true for Mikuni or most other OEM equivalent jets. This size

Mikuni jet, (N102.221 Super BN), is marked according to its' flow rate,

ie: 150 = a rating of 150 cc of fuel per minute.

Besides it looks like youre the one that may have helped me - We'll see

tomorrow :banghead:

Go read this thread - page 3 has a good tuning guide from the Mikuni web page.

https://thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=295851&page=3

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My riding buds told me to hold off on the K&N filter till I get back from a 3000 mile ride in Baja and Mexico Main land. They've been down there and say the dust and sand is a serious issue...I read other post to this forum and now feel I wasted my money. Read my edit to the original post on top

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Yeah, I got a No-Toil replacement "foamy" for mine, it works pretty well.

it cost $18 and is better than the stock one.

My air filter box gets way too hot. I'm going to get some heat shield from Auto Zone

and stick a piece on the part near the Pipe, that should help cool it down.

The heat destroys the foam "lip" on the stock filters, causing them to climb off

the cage around the crank case breather end. :banghead:

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A friend who owns a m/c shop just ordered me a moose filter for about 30 bucks, how come I keep finding out about a better deal a day too late. It will be a spare filter for the big Chihuahua ride (my first) next week....Thanks for the heads up anyway.

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This is weird.... I'm back on my 145 Main jet, Stock Pilot, Mixture screw is less than 1.5 turns out (but I'm not done with it yet)

I shimmed the stock needle up about 1.5mm and... BAM!! it flies!

I know I've tried this before.... well maybe not such a big shim on the

needle, more like .9mm the last time and it had a bad flat spot.

I guess since the needle sucks and the main jet is pretty good, the faster

I get it under the main jet's infleuence the better?

Any how. It's great.

I'll ride it like this for a bit... till I get used to it and want more :banghead:

Oh, another cool side effect is, it gets the front up pretty easy in 2nd

now. :banghead:

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with the stock foam filter put back in for the dusty Baja ride, my mid-range appears too rich (as per spark plug color and performance), looks like it's back to the stock needle like you suggest, with a little shim work, or the dyno-jet needle dropped (Clip one more position up) to lean out the mid-range. Of course this is getting closer to stock due to the removal of the K&N filter. My problem was a too lean idle in the first place but I'm still learning.---- Thanks for the update. p.s./// where or what site do I find the Jesse Idle Screw, this using a mirror and home built tiny screw driver is for the birds when attempting to adj. the idle screw mixture :banghead:

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with the stock foam filter put back in for the dusty Baja ride, my mid-range appears too rich

Sorry for the double post - just wanted to get you that link first...

The stock filter does get things to richen up.

It doesnt breathe as well as the K&N.

Before I started playing with the carb / jets etc. I used to use SAE 30

Motor oil as filter oil to stop more air and force the bike to run richer :banghead:

It worked pretty well for about a year :banghead:

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Hey Sharky,,,Ok, dumb question, on car manifolds, I've seen the heat shield wrapped around header pipes to keep heat contained, but with your suggestion about sticking a piece of heat shield on the plastic air box to prevent heat from cooking the filter lip...well, well, I think I get it, and I like the idea, but I also wrap bake potatoes in foil to cook them. So, I take it you are using the stick on shield to "bounce" the heat away from the air box, that is NOT to put the heat shield material on the muffler itself (as if it sticks). I'm heading to the parts store tomorrow,,so I gots to know :banghead:

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Hey Sharky,,,Ok, dumb question, on car manifolds, I've seen the heat shield wrapped around header pipes to keep heat contained, but with your suggestion about sticking a piece of heat shield on the plastic air box to prevent heat from cooking the filter lip...well, well, I think I get it, and I like the idea, but I also wrap bake potatoes in foil to cook them. So, I take it you are using the stick on shield to "bounce" the heat away from the air box, that is NOT to put the heat shield material on the muffler itself (as if it sticks). I'm heading to the parts store tomorrow,,so I gots to know :banghead:

Yes - it's the type that sticks to the airbox.... it looks like the same stuff thats

on the back side of the right had side frame cover. silver outer layer / fiber / sticky stuff.

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