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castle nut

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I am definately to loose on my headset. I read in D.Rider that you can use a fish scale and string to pull on one fork leg to get 4 lbs when the fork moves. I don't have one but I just wanted to know how tight you guys are going. Perhaps some of the headshake can be avoided by going tighter. I don't want to wear out the bearings but right now if I breathe on the forks the clamps will hit the stops (when on the stand). Who's got the feel? :banghead:

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Put the bike on the stand. When you gently push the bars to the side, they should move, with some restriction, all the way to the stop. They should not flop there with no friction, and they should not stop before they reach the end. That is the rule of thumb I've heard for the 'standard' tension. Then you can loosen or tighten a little (just a little) either way from there to suit your preference. Test with the nut torqued down to spec.

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I am definately to loose on my headset. I read in D.Rider that you can use a fish scale and string to pull on one fork leg to get 4 lbs when the fork moves. I don't have one but I just wanted to know how tight you guys are going. Perhaps some of the headshake can be avoided by going tighter. I don't want to wear out the bearings but right now if I breathe on the forks the clamps will hit the stops (when on the stand). Who's got the feel? :banghead:

From the factory they are a bit loose. So unless you have serviced your headset or had it apart for some reason it probably is alittle too lose for the 4 pound fish scale test. I read that too, and thought it was pretty neat. You could actually set it to something, like 4 and try 6 or 8 and even 2. I have always just tightened it till there is some resistance in the headset. Then torque the lock down.

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I had it apart last winter and I think I may have not tightened it down enough for fear of overtightening.

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