Primary Nut

[ORO]

Whats the Primary nut.When tightening it up why should engine nosies stop.

How do you get to the Primary nut.

[Erik Marquez]

Give this a try

If your new to this forum.. and wish to start a new thread

Use this button.

If a loose primary nut is causing noise...tightening it will not make the noise go away

[ORO]

thanks for that great

[captd1]

Whats the Primary nut?

How do you get to the Primary nut?

I had about the same question about fixing all the standard Suzuki problems. I just looked at my front drive sprocket and made sure it is torqued, 65 ft lbs. But didn't take it off. For the 'primary nut', is it on the right/clutch side? And is it vital that I take the bike apart to verify? I heard all the talk about locktite, but thought that was the sprocket? Appreciate links/info.

[BikeRider]

Primary nut is on the inside of the right side cover, so not easily accessed. Holds the gear in place that meshes with the clutch gear. Suzuki changed the torque spec to 100 ft lbs. Everyone is recommending to retorque it to that torque and to use red loctite on the threads. Catostrophic engine failure if the nut comes loose. I'm thinking I'll go in and do the job at my next oil change interval.

[10guy]

The gears on that end of the crank are responsible for just about everything from the cluch to the counter balancer. The biggie is the cam chain runs off of it as well.

[xti]

When did Suzuki change the Torque to 100 lbs?

[captd1]

Primary nut is on the inside of the right side cover, so not easily accessed. Holds the gear in place that meshes with the clutch gear. Suzuki changed the torque spec to 100 ft lbs. Everyone is recommending to retorque it to that torque and to use red loctite on the threads. Catostrophic engine failure if the nut comes loose. I'm thinking I'll go in and do the job at my next oil change interval.

I know this is a serious thing to have blow up, but it's not as common as the ACCT problem right?? It looks like a real teardown to get to. What parts have to be replaced? Cover gasket, water pump parts, etc?? Once the cover is off, is the nut is accessable? And how to hold the nut stationary? I do have an impact wrench, but that is not suitable, as the torque range is zero to broken. TKS

[BikeRider]

captd1, one persons serious teardown is anothers tune-up. I had the right side off not long ago installing the kick kit. Removing/installing the cover wasn't bad. Yes, the nut is right there with the cover off. Holding the gear, well, I would need to make something to hold things. Maybe the tool used to hold the clutch basket. I'll cross that bridge when I get back in there. I don't know if it is as common as the ACCT failure. Probably not. I already addressed the ACCT with the Bitech unit. I would like my bike as bomb proof as possible. As to parts, I guess worse case the cover gasket and some red loctite.

[Erik Marquez]

I know this is a serious thing to have blow up, but it's not as common as the ACCT problem right?? It looks like a real teardown to get to. What parts have to be replaced? Cover gasket, water pump parts, etc?? Once the cover is off, is the nut is accessable? And how to hold the nut stationary? I do have an impact wrench, but that is not suitable, as the torque range is zero to broken. TKS

You really must have a dislike for the search button

This has been posted a thousand times......but I guess a thousand and one for the search dysfunctional is always good?

The primary nut has seen more issues in my last two years on this board then the ACCT has.

Here is a good post that describes the nut in question, the tools needed and the procedure to fix it.

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286614&highlight=primary+nut

And here is a quick search using "primary" & "nut"

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/search.php?searchid=737644

[captd1]

You really must have a dislike for the search button

This has been posted a thousand times......but I guess a thousand and one for the search dysfunctional is always good

While it is true that my search skills could use some work, I have seen the thread you linked to. It is a bunch of guys, ALL with differing opinions on how to tighten the nut. I was hoping for difinitive repair steps from you 'experts'. Aside from being left hand thread, and no proper way to hold it in place, I still have limited info. Holding a wrench on the left case 'stator' nut was mentioned, but as that is 'standard' thread, wouldn't it break loose while doing the primary?

[Erik Marquez]

As you asked,, and I had posted in the other thread,, I ASS U MED you would take that as my reply.

1: Yes you need to make or buy that off set wrench to hold the rotor.

2: No tightening the left hand thread primary nut on the right side..does not unscrew anything on the rotor nut.. That nut,, is not screwed to anything.. it is cast onto the rotor.. which is keyed in place to the crank.

3:Step 1. get a manual. Step 2. remove the gen cover. step 3. drain coolant, remove right side cover. Step 4. Hold the gen rotor with your home made $20 tool or but a $90 one from another tool source.. loosen the nut, degrease threads, add a single drop of med strength thread locking compound, tighten it to 100 ft lb. Step 5: put everything you took off or out back. Step 6: Go ride

[BikeRider]

I'm going to add to Bronco78's post just for fun. Step 3.5- drain the oil. Step 5.5- wait 24 hours for the loctite to set.

[sireland67]

I will add to bikeriders post step 3.5, lay bike on its side, no need to drain oil.

[captd1]

Thanks alot guys. I have PRINTED your instructions and look forward to a fun Saturday of bike parts. This info may be worthy of adding to the DRZinfo page, so it doesn't get asked 1 million and TWO times! ha Especially since some people are advocating putting 100 ft lbs of pressure on the tranny to hold the bolt.

[ORO]

ive heard its best to hold the generator nut with one spanner and the primary nut with another spanner,saves abusing anything else trying to undo it and tightening back up.

[BikeRider]

I'll add to sireland67's info. 3.5.1- Have friend bench press bike so you can access the other side of the motor to hold the rotor nut. Or, push the other primary nut out of the way (sireland) and drain the oil .

[Spud786]

The book says to remove the left cover and hold the 17mm rotor hex. This was not acceptible to me , having removed that stuff before. It's not just a couple of screws and there's a gasket which can leak and the magetic field of the stator, it adds additional time to the checking the primary nut and I looked for an idea to avoid that additional hassel.

Luckily there's a short cut which allows doing the primary nut without removing the left cover. it's a sound method, or else I would have had issue by now , over 6,000 miles since I did it.

[JoelH.]

Go to pep boy's auto, buy cheap battery impact, zou primary nut, zou countershaft nut, return impact. Or if your the moralist type keep it. It will probably last forever considering the few times you'll absolutly need it on this bike.

[captd1]

Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?? My water pump is fine, but I saw somewhere there is an impeller upgrade, supposed to pump more coolant?? If it aint broke, don't tear it open right?