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04 TE250 Engine

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My Te 250 seized the connecting rod bearing.

A:How does the starter clutch come off? After I took the nut off I tryed a gear puller but I did not want to force it.

B:I have read about a updated clutch for the 04 anyone have the part number?

Since I have it apart I am going to install stainless valves and reseal the whole thing.

Also the con-rod bearing is seized but the main bearings seam to be fine should I replace them anyway?

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If you are pulling the engine down that far - the cost of the main bearings is a wise choice for peace of mind (Bearing outlet store - buy the high quality). I'll sell you my 04 TE 250 with <600 miles and Hall's SS intakes - may part out???

MSTex

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About 30 hours on the bike.....oil in it,yes I maintain my bikes better than most as far as oil changes and valve adjustments.I am an A enduro rider and was beating it very hard in an enduro when it seized. The crank is around 600 and the gaskets and seals are 200 all together to freshen it up 1600 with piston and valves.It is still all apart as I am still comming up with the $$

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Robert send me a PM if you are interested in my 04 TE 250 Saga. 30 hours is totally unacceptable IMO. Fight back! $1600 whew!

MSTex

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What were you doing when it seized? Was it on the rev limiter or something close, did it drown? I'm supposed to get a 06TE250 soon and want it to last as long as possible. What weight oil were you using? I ask all this so I can try and prevent this from happening to me. I been ridding Yam WR250f's since 01 and these things are solid. I took my WR's to hell and back and they don't break. However I need the plate so I can start linking trails together via the road.

Since you are going to have to open it up maybe you can send it to a crank shop and just have a new crank pin made and move the pin out to give you more stroke. Say 2mm. It might take a little more work but the rewards could be awesome. See what bike/kit (RPM/Forward motion/OEm/etc) has a piston a few mm larger and use that brands crank rod and have the crank pin machined to that bearing. Its a wild idea that would take more homework but the cost may end up the same. What is it bore(piston mm X stroke mm= cc?)Maybe I'm dreaming a little to much here. :busted::banghead:🤣

TE 300@%&!#???

:banghead:

ahhh

:busted:

Aloha

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bore(mm)x bore(mm)x stroke(mm)x .0031416 divided by 4 = cc of displacement

stock 76x55=249.5

new 79(yzf3mm oversize) x 57.5(+2.5mm.pin)=289cc

:banghead:

oh well

Aloha

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Yep YZF/WRF 250 are solid and highly reliable for years - the gold standard. I would be hesitant to use the stock 04 Titanium valves (at least the intakes), IMO Hall's stainless are the best bet, or an 05 TE 250 head better yet? I totally agree, a 300cc 4 stoke would be the ultimate - I hope KTM comes out with one (300 XCF) based on the super light 250SX, if any company would do it it would be KTM. Halls was working on a 300cc kit and larger valves to my understanding.

MSTex

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I was useing Thumper raceing oil.Just the lower rod bearing failed every other bearing in the engine is ok.I changed the oil after every ride.You should be ok as the 06 te250 has all the updates and a bigger rod pin and bearing are one of them.Also when I ride it it is at full throttle or no throttle :banghead:

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do you suggest replacing the valves , my motor has about 30 hours of hard desert riding on it . the top end is a little more noisy than most , it was like that rite out of the crate . even after inital valve adjustment . im getting some small like pepper size aluminum flakes in my oil . and im now wondering what the issue could be . ive pulled the top end down and didnt see anything abnormal . $ 1600.00 - thats allot a scratch man ,,,,

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All the te's sound as if they are going to blow!!Metal in oil..I would check the starter idler gears for missing teeth that is a common problem. as far as the valves go I would wait untill you see them fall out of adjustment fast.They don't seam to just break without warning

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rite on robert thanks for the info . just to reconfirm you said "All the te's sound as if they are going to blow"- i had a a 94 350 w dual exhaust . it was a noisy motor . my husaberg fe 501 sounds like something is going to fly out at any time . my t.e clings a little in the bottom end, :banghead: its a hard sound to describe . for some reason i havent seen many huskies here in nevada so i dont have anything to compare it too . i change the oil every other ride with full synthetic . this is one of the best handeling bikes id ever owned . im just going to ride it , and hope for the best .. thanks

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I'm considering an 06' TE250 or TE450 due to the plating in CA. I'm worried that most guys are posting that they change oil after every other ride and such. I had an 03' YZ250F and wouldn't change oil more than every couple months (3-4 Rides or so). What gives here?? Grant it, my rides may not be as "hard core" as yours but I'm not down for oil changes every ride.

So, it's sounds to me like these Husky's may simply not last four or five years (which is what it takes for me to pay for one, hehe) without having some major possible engine overhauls.

Is that really the bottom line? Husky = Expensive to own.

Please tell me there are many others out there that have owned these bikes for a years now and have had no problems at all and are as happy as pigs in slop.

???

Getting worried over here. Let me know before I plunk down my $6500-7300 OTD!

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