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Anodizing Spray


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Anodizing is an electrochemical process that involves passing current from an anode to a cathode in a acid bath which creates a hollow, hard porous surface. After the anodizing process the part is dipped in color that is held in the porus surface and then the part is dipped in a sealer at high temp. I don't know what it is but if it comes from a spray can it isn't anodizing.

Home anodizing is not difficult if you don't mind working with battery acid, for small parts a simple battery charger will work, do a search on the web and you'll find complete (less acid) anodizing kits with sealer and multiple colors and instructions for under $50. The first decomp plugs I shipped to TT were anodized in my garage in a couple of old coolers using a battery charger with a hot plate for heating the color and sealer. Now they are sent to SAPA anodizing in Portland, OR.

Sorry for the rambling.

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I used this on a few parts on my 05 CRF. It looks good, not an exact match to alot of other anodized parts, But worth the time. Make sure and buy the metalcast primer.

Thanks for the tip, maybe I'll re-do my stuff when I get the time, as yours looks much shinier and the paint stuck better I'm sure.

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Ouchy.....

This must be why you have so much time to make your bike look so pretty

http://photobucket.com/albums/v248/yzfmxer/?action=view&current=IMG_0625.jpg

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The heat during the baking for powder coating weakens the rims, anodizing is the way to go.

aedwards07, Nice job on the valve cover, looks excellent!

you only use like 350 to 400 degrees to bake on the powder coat and that is not enough to weaken the rim, you would have to get them alot hotter than that and cool them quickly to weaken them or to crystalize them, i have mine powdercoated and they hold up just fine,and they look great, plus you can only anodize aluminum so if your stock wheels are steel then powder coating is the way to go. it only cost me $20 a rim to have it done

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you only use like 350 to 400 degrees to bake on the powder coat and that is not enough to weaken the rim, you would have to get them alot hotter than that and cool them quickly to weaken them or to crystalize them, i have mine powdercoated and they hold up just fine,and they look great, plus you can only anodize aluminum so if your stock wheels are steel then powder coating is the way to go. it only cost me $20 a rim to have it done

I agree, I have most of my aircraft parts (steel and aluminum) powder coated and don't worry about PC affecting the strength. They only hold that temp for 10-15 minutes tops so you don't have to worry about powder coating weakening the rims. It's a matter of choice and color options.

PC has more color options and is usually cheaper than anodizing, with most anodizing shops you pay for a tank or rack load, usually $70-$80. The shop I use in Portland for the decomp plugs charges me $80 whether I have 1 or a full rack of 600 done.

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you only use like 350 to 400 degrees to bake on the powder coat and that is not enough to weaken the rim, you would have to get them alot hotter than that and cool them quickly to weaken them or to crystalize them, i have mine powdercoated and they hold up just fine,and they look great, plus you can only anodize aluminum so if your stock wheels are steel then powder coating is the way to go. it only cost me $20 a rim to have it done

I guess it's only the hub he was talking about... I was checking this site that does MX rims and hubs and the note at the bottom says he wont do hubs because it weakens them. Does this sound like a good price for him to strip down, polish, anodize and build back to specs?

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