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should u really use motorcycle oil instead of car oil? wats the differance? and wat is the best kind? and is there any cheap kinds? :banghead:

I have no clue?

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Yes, unless you can find a non-specific motor oil without friction addetitives such as Moly (i've found that most auto oils have them). The friction modifiers can screw up your wet cluch....mmmm wett....

Any motorcycle specific oil will do. I use Bel-Ray Thumper, synblend. Not as pricy as full synthetic but has alot of the benefits and better than dino (non-synthetic) oil.

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I've been very pleased with Shell Rotella-T full synth 5w-40. It's ~$13/gallon at WalMart.

I ran 8 hard hours in the desert this past Sat and no signs of overheating...

FWIW

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I ran QS 10w40 for about 25 years and have been running Motorcraft 15w40 for about 5? or so in many different bikes. I, personally, think the motorcycle specific oils are a scam. I've heard to stay away from oils that state "energy conserving" which is mostly the lighter weight 5w20, 10w20, 5w30, 10w30 etc. weight oils due to excessive slippage in wet clutches, but I wouldn't run anything that light anyway.

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I like motorcycle specific synthetic oil. Many guys will say "I've been using xyz dino non motorcycle specific oil with no problems." And they're probably right...they've experienced no problems. But are they getting maximum efficiency out of the engine? Are they getting maximum lubricity [is that even a word? (Lubrication)] thus keeping the engine cooler and increasing wear parts life? A cooler engine is more efficient at delivering maximum hp. Is the auto oil designed for the high temp/shear of the transmission?

I like knowing the synthetic motorcycle oil's physical and chemical properties are designed with the high rpm, high heat motorcycle engines in mind. With a fully synthetic motorcycle specific oil I feel I'm providing the best oil for maximum engine efficiency, not merely an oil that meets the oil specs and gets by with no problems.

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should u really use motorcycle oil instead of car oil? wats the differance? and wat is the best kind? and is there any cheap kinds? :banghead:

I have no clue?

Motorcycle specific oils have more zinc, less moly and maybe some anti-foaming agents (for the gearbox), and maybe more boron. Some diesel oils have the same relative amounts of these additives.

To get educated - go to www.bobistheoilguy.com - they have a motorcycle section. Folks there will post virgin oil analysis (VOA) and used oil analysis (UOA) - to show what's in the oil at the beginning and how it holds up with some miles on it.

For non-motorcycle specific oils - Diesel rated oils like Shell Rotella (synthetic and non) seems to be the current favorite; It used to be chevron delo 400 - but chevron started adding more moly to it recently making some concerned about clutch slippage.

I am going to be using shell rotella 15w40 conventional oil in my bike. Good oil, low moly, high zinc, and cheap by the gallon at wal-mart.

jeff

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about 3-5 years ago the EPA made the motor oil refineries reduce the amount of ZDDP anti wear additve in automotive oil to increase catalytic convertor life. motorcycle oils did not fall under the EPA mandate.

bottom line MC oils have more antiwear additives than auto oils.

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I used a Castrol 10-30 oil on my KLR once, and had major problems with my clutch when I took it to Mammoth. Basically when I started the bike in the morning when it was very cold, the bike would just slam into the 1st gear as if I didn't engage the clutch. I haven't had that problem since I changed to cycle oil from a local bike shop.

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When I owned my '97 XR400R I ran only Honda oil in it. I sold it in 2002. I had burned one set of clutch plates when I broke my shift shaft. I shattered 3rd gear motorcross racing it. It never lost or darkened any Honda oil I put through it. I could beat that thing for a whole day at the sand dunes, and 8 gallons of gas and never burn a drop.

My 1995 XR650L on the other hand now has over 52,000 miles on the odometer. I beat the snot out of it. I used to race it, now I commute with it. I take these 'shortcuts' on the way home that includes about 5 miles of gnarly fun trails.

I used to run Honda motorcycle specific oil (usually 20w50). For the last 30,000 (+/-) miles however, I have been running Quaker state 10w-40. I change it once every 6 months. I replaced the clutch plates when I was still using the Honda oil. The "new" clutch had about 5000 miles of Honda oil on it when I made the switch to Quaker. The clutch feels smoother with the quaker.

I've had no problems. It runs very strong, and has never left me stranded.

Whatever oil you use, change it often..

Advice I seldom follow.

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Is 20-40 a good summer oil for the xr's? 10-40 for colder temps??

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Hee Hee what an interesting topic. I've tried everything in the 35 years I've been riding. Motorcycle specific = rip off folks. Been running QS 10-W30 in my thumpers and 2 stroke gearboxes for years with great reliability. Change the oil on a regular basis and you're good to go. Use the money you save on slick new riding outfit!

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I also use Shell Rotella T 15-40 mixed fleet spec gas/diesel. I use this in all 4 strokes and in 2 stroke trannys. I did use Chevron Delo for many years until the rumors of too much moly caused me to jump ship. I buy in 6 gal cases at Sam's club. Less than $40 for 6 gal.

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I hear ya xrmarty. My 97xr400.I made the same poor oil choise once never again.It wouldnt shift after it warmed up.Rode like 20min.Got home removed the clutch and the metal discs were brown.It cost me over $100.00 to fix and screwed up a nice day i should have been rideing.Buy the oil's made for bike's.

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Rotella T 15-40. I use it in my 4-stroke bikes, my motorhome (454 Chevy), my Dodge pickup (3.9 V-6), my Dodge van (318 V-8) and used it Mack diesel engines for many years. My good experience with it will not allow me to change. :applause:

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I started to buy a gallon of Bel-Ray 5w50 fully synthetic 4-stroke specific motorcycle oil,when i seen the price I had 2nd thoughts,39.95$ was a little to steep for me,I have been running castrol 20 w50 synthetic blend,and right after a change you can actually feel the bike is running smoother,Im not joking,at 55 mph,my bike sounds like it is running quieter than before the change,and i never go more than 500 miles to the next service,these are easy miles,if it were race miles,i would change it at the end of every race day,race miles at all out are a lot different than just cruising around. XRRon

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Is 20-40 a good summer oil for the xr's? 10-40 for colder temps??

20-50 summer, 10-40 rest of year

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Personal experience: Cheap oil ($1.15/qt) would get dark pretty quickly, and look like it needed to be changed.

Medium oil ($3.50/qt) seems to last much, much longer without getting dirty (I believe the cheaper oil was breaking down due to higher temperatures or something like that.)

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Most four stroke bikes can use non specific oil I.E off the shelf engine oil or synthetic. With 2 strokes some of the older one's especially standard engine oil can tend to gum up the clutch due to different additives like it has been mentioned, but the newer synthetics shouldn't cause a problem.

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