bogging very badly please help!!!

[230F_Rider]

I have a crf230 and just put the power-up needle in with a 132 main and a 45 pilot. I'm about 600 ft above sea level. after installing the bike know bogs very bad when you pin the throttle from idle. If you let it idle and pin it and don't let off immediately it will kill the engine, but if you the rpm's up a little bit above idle and then pin it it revs right up like it should. I have tried putting the needle in the 3rd 4th and 5th positions and adjusted the mixture screw from all the way in to 2 1/2 turns out with no change whatsoever. I have also put the stock pilot jet back in #42 and no change there either. please help for i am a newbie to tuning carbs.

[Red_Snapper]

You didn't mention if you pulled your exhaust baffle and intake snorkle. If you did the power up thing without these, your over-rich experience is to be expected. I assume you know that wicking a 4-stroke throttle without a pumper carb generally involves a lag. Are you road testing or just wicking it on the stand?

BTW, you are not a newbie anymore after 3 clip changes.

[kevindepot]

Thumper Troubleshooting

Bike won’t start after a crash

Pilot too lean

Idle set too high

Improper starting procedure

Bike wants hot start button

Bike runs on or won’t idle down when throttle is chopped

Idle set too high

Air leak intake or engine

Pilot too rich (when bike is hot)

Bike won’t start when cold outside

Pilot jet too lean

Air filter is over-oiled

Motor oil too thick for temperature

Bike sputters/won’t clean out at high RPM

Main jet too rich

Air filter is over-oiled

Spark plug has debris on electrode

Bike coughs and stalls in slow turns

Pilot too lean

Idle set too low

Valves set too tight

Decompressor is set too tight, so turning the bars engages release slightly

Bike hesitates or bogs over deep whoops or G-outs

Float level too low

Carb vent tubes blocked

Main jet splash shield not installed

Float level too high, gas is trapped in vent tubes (install T-vents)

Bike starts but won’t take throttle without sputtering

Pilot jet too rich

Water in fuel

Debris in main jet

Bike suddenly starts sputtering/gas flows from vent tubes

Stuck float check valve

Debris in gas or carb

Bike runs hot/feels slow and flat on straights

Main jet is too lean

Fuel octane low, causing detonation

Bike coughs and stalls when you wick open throttle

Needle too lean

Slide cutaway too lean

Pumper circuit blocked or too lean

[230F_Rider]

i have removed the baffle and snorkel. Yes i understand that a 4 stroke will lag a little but it shouldn't completely stall the engine. I have put the stock jets back in and left the power-up needle in and again i have seen no change. If I let the rpms come up slow its ok but if i just open it quickly it kills the engine this is a big problem b/c when i go into a sharp turn i let off the throttle and I am leaning into the turn then open the throttle to exit and it will die. I have almost dropped it a couple of times b/c of this.

[230F_Rider]

one more thing, I replaced the little sleeve that comes with the new needle by using the stock needle to pull it out i then used the tube that the main jet goes in to push the new one in as the sticky tells me to. But when i put the new one in i guess i tightned it up just a little to tight and deformed the end of the tube I did replace the tube with a new one before ever putting the carb back together. Could this have caused the sleeve to be to far up in the carb?

[Red_Snapper]

The needle bushing has a ridge that stops it at the right insertion distance. You should see a couple mms sticking into the throat of the carb. With the screw in method to seat the bushing I would be concerned about getting it started straight into the hole--if it's not started right it could get mashed (it's about as soft as cheese). If your previous effort messed up the jet holder tube I'm guessing the bushing is deformed too. If the bushing is deformed the needle won't seat properly.

Also, when you changed the clip did you get the the little spring seated properly so the needle is spring loaded and free moving? I'd clean/blow out the passageways too. Sometimes when changing jets a little burr off of the aluminum threads will break off and clog a jet.

[barton]

Needle dimensions are measured in hundredths of a mm. It doesn't take much deformation to cause a problem.

[230F_Rider]

Ok, I have taken the carb off the bike and disassembled it I cleaned it throughly and blew out every passage with air. I also replaced the needle bushing. I put it all back together and I still have seen no change in the way it runs. My question know is about the needle. I thought that with the power-up needle the purpose is to richen the mixture. If that is so then why is it bigger in diameter than the stock one it looks to me that the stock needle has a more aggressive taper to it. The new one is fatter and doesn't taper down as small on the end. Wouldn't this make the mixture leaner. Doesn't the needle control how much fuel flows into the carb after going through the main jet. If that is true then wouldn't I get more fuel with a needle that has a smaller tip. The bike seems to be running lean. It pops when down revving, or coasting down a hill. Could I have gotten the wrong needle?