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Valve springs

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Can the springs be replaced without taking off the head on the 450R? I have the new Clymer book and it is inconclusive on this. :banghead:

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Well I guess you could, so long as the Vavle stays were you need it. I just see it being a PITA. I would take off the head and do it on a bench, thats what I just did a week ago. But I did new Intake valves, so I had to remove it.

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I just had mine all done with kibblewhite but my buddy doesn't want to spend the cash on the same thing. he just wants to replace the springs withe the Kibblewhite spring kit. Go figure since the kit costs more then the valves do. I guess i'll give it a try since he is not mechanically inclined and I have the repair manual. :banghead:

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You can use an air compressor to hold the valve closed while you do the swap. If you use the kibblewhite springs on the stock Ti valves, don't expect the valves to last very long.

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I just had mine all done with kibblewhite but my buddy doesn't want to spend the cash on the same thing. he just wants to replace the springs withe the Kibblewhite spring kit. Go figure since the kit costs more then the valves do. I guess i'll give it a try since he is not mechanically inclined and I have the repair manual. :banghead:

:banghead:

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You can use an air compressor to hold the valve closed while you do the swap. If you use the kibblewhite springs on the stock Ti valves, don't expect the valves to last very long.

As if they last long any way. Actually, guys at kibblewhite said it would work fine. Would be better to use their valves but they sell stock stuff with thier spring kits too. :banghead:

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As if they last long any way. Actually, guys at kibblewhite said it would work fine. Would be better to use their valves but they sell stock stuff with thier spring kits too. :banghead:

I would suspect that the greater spring seat pressure of the kibblewhite would hammer the hardening on the OEM Ti valve. Not how I would spend my money.

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I would suspect that the greater spring seat pressure of the kibblewhite would hammer the hardening on the OEM Ti valve. Not how I would spend my money.

I agree, but it is not my money and the Kibblewhite guys said it would be OK. We'll find out. Once it sh!ts to bed I'll repost on how many hours it took. :banghead:

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I would suspect that the greater spring seat pressure of the kibblewhite would hammer the hardening on the OEM Ti valve.

That's not the case at all. We have a number of customers running Kibblewhite spring kits with OEM titanium intake valves. They are getting better service life out of the OEM valves with this setup, and better valve control at high rpm especially with wild cams. The stainless steel valves will still provide longer service life, but for some cam profiles the OEM valves with good springs is a very good option.

A number of guys here on TT are running OEM valves with RHC springs and cams with similarly good results.

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That's not the case at all. We have a number of customers running Kibblewhite spring kits with OEM titanium intake valves. They are getting better service life out of the OEM valves with this setup, and better valve control at high rpm especially with wild cams. The stainless steel valves will still provide longer service life, but for some cam profiles the OEM valves with good springs is a very good option.

A number of guys here on TT are running OEM valves with RHC springs and cams with similarly good results.

OK, that's 2 experts now. We'll give it a shot. Thanks Rich! :banghead:

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A number of guys here on TT are running OEM valves with RHC springs and cams with similarly good results.

It would be nice if they posted their results. There's no substitue for good old trial and error. Using a heavier than stock spring on a used Ti valve and seat just seems sketchy and uneccessary.

Why wouldn't you just install a new set of stock springs if you aren't going to do anything else and are afraid the old ones are sacked. If anything, they should just install two new OEM springs for $11 and call it a day.

gchprime's buddy will find out how it works out soon enough. Keep us informed gchprime.

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It would be nice if they posted their results. There's no substitue for good old trial and error. Using a heavier than stock spring on a used Ti valve and seat just seems sketchy and uneccessary.

Why wouldn't you just install a new set of stock springs if you aren't going to do anything else and are afraid the old ones are sacked. If anything, they should just install two new OEM springs for $11 and call it a day.

gchprime's buddy will find out how it works out soon enough. Keep us informed gchprime.

The problem with that is, the OEM springs arent adequate to start with. Ive been saying it since this crap started. The damn OEM springs are way too light. If you were replacing them every 5 racing hours, they'd be fine, but nobody except KW (Keving Windam, not Kibble White) gets that treatment. What the motor really needs is a spring with a damper thats about 30% stiffer overall.

If I had a race coming up and was in a total pinch and needed to do the springs for piece of mind, you could do the OEM spring, but if I had it apart, I wouldnt do that if I had the time and proper parts to do it better...

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Using a heavier than stock spring on a used Ti valve and seat just seems sketchy and uneccessary.

Running the high end springs should only be done with new OEM Ti valves on a properly cut seats, not on old valves and worn seats.

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Per the original question, I would remove the head to replace the springs. It isn't hard to do since you've already disassembled the engine this far, I think it's only the 4 nuts and the 8 mm bolts on the side of the head. I rent a pro quality spring comp for 12 bucks and that really helps!

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Per the original question, I would remove the head to replace the springs. It isn't hard to do since you've already disassembled the engine this far, I think it's only the 4 nuts and the 8 mm bolts on the side of the head. I rent a pro quality spring comp for 12 bucks and that really helps!

along with draining the coolant and removing the headpipe.

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I just dont see why one would screw around with old valves and new springs. Especially if the old valve comes apart you are going to need a new piston, cylinder, and head. It seems like an unnecessary risk given the cost of new Ti valves.

Either way.. you can do it with out taking your head off as mentioned above. But once again, Ide personally tear it down and inspect the valve seats. Especially if I wasn't replaceing the valves. For all you know you could be putting new springs on valves that are failing and in turn possibly accelerating the failure process.

But as you said.. its your buddy. Let us know how he fairs and best of luck.

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