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MCCT Installation

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Your posts makes it sound really easy, I'm just not sure what the crank bolt access cover is and how do you turn the crankshaft by hand. I get turning the adjuster (but not the crankshaft).

Can you describe it? Anyone got any pictures?

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On the left side of the engine (shift lever side) there is a small round cover (2-3 inches in diameter) that you remove with an allen wrench.

Once you remove that cover, you will see a large nut in there. That is the crank. Stick a socket wrench on that nut and turn the engine by hand (counter clockwise) using your socket wrench.

Stand on the left side of the bike while you do this. You'll be able to turn the crank with your left hand, while reaching over the seat and turning the adjuster bolt with your right hand.

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On the left side of the engine (shift lever side) there is a small round cover (2-3 inches in diameter) that you remove with an allen wrench.

Once you remove that cover, you will see a large nut in there. That is the crank. Stick a socket wrench on that nut and turn the engine by hand (counter clockwise) using your socket wrench.

Stand on the left side of the bike while you do this. You'll be able to turn the crank with your left hand, while reaching over the seat and turning the adjuster bolt with your right hand.

Yep, what he said. Crank bolt takes a 17 mm deepwell socket. After you take the initial slack out of the cam chain, crank the engine with the socket wrench slowly with left hand while you turn the tensioner bolt in with fingers of your right hand. Eventually, the tensioner will only move a little bit, then not at all as the engine is turned over. At that point, back off 1/4 turn and tighten down the lock nut (12mm wrench) while holding the end of the tensioner bolt with a 12 mm wrench or socket, keeping the bolt from moving as you lock it down with the nut.

The cover takes a big allen wrench (10mm, I believe.) :banghead:

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I still have the Bitech MCCT on the shelf.... I assume this method is applicable to that as well right , mainly the 1/4 turn thing at the end ?

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I just ran the engine and wound the mcct in till the rattle from the chain disappeared. Is this incorrect?

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I just ran the engine and wound the mcct in till the rattle from the chain disappeared. Is this incorrect?

I think you want to get the tension set initially by turning the crank and adjusting the bolt until you get the majority of the slack out of the chain. Then you can start the bike and play around with it like you described. I don't have mine yet but this was the method I was planning to follow.

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I did the burned method. Remove the ACCT. Install the MCCT...being careful not to rotate the engine with no CCT installed....dial in till you feel tension. Start bike...back off untill you start to feel/hear chain noise...then turn in until noise/vibration quits. Done.

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I tried tightening mine by hand, at what point do you stop tightening by hand when initially setting it. Do you stop when you feel a little bit of tension, when you feel it becomes difficult to tighten by hand? I am concerned about over tightening the tensioner and effin' something up...

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I did the burned method. Remove the ACCT. Install the MCCT...being careful not to rotate the engine with no CCT installed....dial in till you feel tension. Start bike...back off untill you start to feel/hear chain noise...then turn in until noise/vibration quits. Done.

I did the same thing. One of the easiest mods yet.

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Another rehash of EJ doing "the burned method":

Out with the old was easy. EJ can do it and so can you. Forget about the ACCT, measuring the shaft for MCCT install or anything. Fuhgeddabowdit. Just take your new MCCT and run the bolt in and out a few times to get the feel for the unstressed resistance of the threads. You are doing all of this by feel, so develop your unladen baseline. It's your MCCT....Grok it in fullness.

Back the bolt out as far as you can and still fit it into the bike. You want to hit the guide noticeably by feeling the sudden resistance, so give yourself a good run-in distance for comparison's sake.

With that bolt extended full-out, mount the MCCT base to the head surface finger tight then walk each side in evenly taking turns in little steps until your fingers can't turn the allen wrench. Bi-tech means you're compressing the o-ring, anything else and you're seating a gasket. Either way, don't distort things by doing one side all the way and then the other.

Run the bolt in until you feel the resistance of the bolt end hitting the chain guide. Run it in a little further...then out a bit...then out until it releases pressure...in...out...you've got time, right? You're not in a hurry? Good. Get to know the feel so that at 10Krpm you're not locking up the rear wheel to the tune of $1800 just prior to a hospital trip costing ?????

With a good feel for the relationship of all pieces and how they act on each other, you'll know what it means to:

1) Run the bolt in until it touches.

2) Run it in another 1/2 turn.

3) Start the bike.

4) Back it out until you hear marbles-in-the-clothes-dryer noises and not much further.

5) Run it in until the noises stop.

6) Repeat 4 and 5 until you think you're happy with the contact point in this process. STAY OFF THE THROTTLE WHILE MCCT IS LOOSE.

7) Repeat 4 and 5, but this time add 1/4 turn to the "in" once the noise stops.

8) Run the lock nut down, hold bolt with a wrench (you want to maintain its position) while final tightening the lock nut. Tighten the lock nut with the zeal of one who likes to spend money on fun things and not replacing blown motorcycle engines.

Pay attention to the sounds that you are now very familiar with from your motor in its various stages in the heat cycle as you ride the first few days. Listen for the need to adjust based on what you hear cold, warm and hot.

Go ride, then put your feet up and drink a beer whilst talking smack about things people didn't see you do while thier backs were turned. Nevermind.....you wouldn't do that, would you?

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Just for reference, I screwed my MCCT finger tight, the rattling noise started at 1/2 turn out. Set it at 1/4 turn out.

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