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my valves are DONE!! some pictures

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Ever wonder what valves look like after going to .00 a couple times and eventually finding there is no longer a shim small enough to get the job done? If this is because I don't clean my air filter often enough how come I've never had to shim the exhaust side. This is from an '03.

valves1.JPG

valves2.JPG

valves3.JPG

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I had the same impression. Just the camera lens distortion or the right is bent?

I'm not an expert but comparing them with mine, if those are the intake ones, they have a lot of carbon buildup like on the inner/top section (reverse to comb. chamber to be clear)

Mines were homogeneosly black/gray sooted in the inner side, not irregulars like yours.

To me it looks like something was coming from the intake: air filter oil? too much engine oil vapor recycled?

I'd like to hear an expert opinion......

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My '03 valves lasted 2.5 years with diligent maintenance and still looked "clean" when removed (even the piston was "relatively" clean, worn but clean). That crud build up is due to either poor maintenance (air/oil maintenance), crappy oil (possible oil left in "way" too long) or running the bike "way" too rich fuel (or some "strange" fuel or additive).

New is nice though!!!

Don :banghead:

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Mine looked simmilar to that. I bought the bike used so I don't know what the habbits were. I would guess that when it gets to zero it is not sealing correctly and lets some combustion through to scorch that fuel on the valve? Did you replace your springs? I just did mine and should have done springs, but didn't think it was that big of a deal since the dumb asses at my shop said, "we don't stock them cause no one replaces them" then I found out different as my new valves are already moving after a few rides.

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Ever wonder what valves look like after going to .00 a couple times and eventually finding there is no longer a shim small enough to get the job done? If this is because I don't clean my air filter often enough how come I've never had to shim the exhaust side. This is from an '03.

valves1.JPG

valves2.JPG

valves3.JPG

The issue is almost always two things with these valves: air filter or air intake system sucking too much dust (actually any dust at all is bad) and the OEM springs go out of spec. I am leaning towards air intake on yours. That gunk on top of the valve is like soapy feeling isn't it? It's dust and oil residue. The reason it doesn't mess the exhaust valves is due to the fact that most of the crap that makes it past the intakes is atomized upon combustion. Make sure you inspect your intake system for leaks or dust build up and keep that oil air filter oiled at all times! :banghead:

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Mine looked simmilar to that. I bought the bike used so I don't know what the habbits were. I would guess that when it gets to zero it is not sealing correctly and lets some combustion through to scorch that fuel on the valve? Did you replace your springs? I just did mine and should have done springs, but didn't think it was that big of a deal since the dumb asses at my shop said, "we don't stock them cause no one replaces them" then I found out different as my new valves are already moving after a few rides.

Did you replace the springs with OEM and use aftermarket SS valves? If so you are running a risk there. The OEM springs are not designed to deal with the added weight of the SS valves. Either all OEM (although you will be in the same boat in 20-30 hrs or so), all aftermarket SS like Kibblewhite/RHC/FactionMX(best choice) or aftermarket springs and OEM valves (yes, this is OK; also a good choice). Never use OEM springs with aftermarket SS valves.

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when mine went, I had a very little build up on the back of the valve. If the valve went to negative clearance, meaning it never loses contact with the cam, could it get carbon buildup on it due to the combustion leaking around it?

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OEM exhaust valves are stainless. Plus, the combustion atomizes virtually any of the stuff that worked over your intakes.

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Look at the face of the valve. Is it pitted up or is it just me? That doesn't look good! Something isn't right. I don't think that you can blame Honda on this one. Obviously something foreign was introduced into the intake charge and destroyed those valves.

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The cupping on those is what mine looked like when i pulled mine out. I didnt have the massive carbon build up though. Got RHC SS Valves and springs Problem solved! OH and ive been through two sets of TI valves and springs! Not going to do that again.

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Looks like the valve guides should be checked by the build up on them. To some point its cool to get more time out of your valves but the valve margin is gone and there is a risk of it being pulled into the valve bowl :banghead: Thanks for the pics its good to know someone else has valves like mine ( although not as small margin)

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I've changed the oil at least every 5 hours: Mobil 1 Red Cap in engine side and Honda gear oil in tranny side. I may have over-oiled the air filter on occassion. If you over-oil you can go twice as long between changes, right? (That's a joke for those of you with no sense of humor.) I swap between the stock filter and a Twin Air between changes. The only other non-standard thing I've done is run a 50/50 mix of 91 octane and 100LL (AVGAS) for races, since the highest you can get at the pump in Cali' is 91. The LL in 100LL means low lead. Any chance that's what's built up on the valve stems? I haven't touched the jets since I bought it. Do these run rich from the factory? The valve is not bent, just camera distortion. Although I had bad luck with the stock valves I'm replacing with same, mainly because the Kibblewhite spring kit is many $. I think it's a total scam you can't buy just the Kibblewhite intake springs. If I run through the second set of stock valves I'll try Kibblewhite -- or maybe just sell the bike. Besides as long as I do better filter maintenance I should get about 500 hours on this top end right?! :banghead: (Another joke.)

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Thanks for posting the nice pictures that allow memebers to understand where the wear is on the valve and how it causes the clearance to go to nothing. :banghead: I have a box full of vlaves just like that that I've done for many folks but never tried to take good pics of them: good job!

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The deposits on the valve have to come from somewhere...its either a valve guide, or junk in the fuel, Im thinking the piston had the same crap on it...Id think to get that much crap on the valve in the short amout of time on the motor you'd have to be getting some pretty bad gas...could be the AV gas, but I dont know that for sure...91 octane is good enough tho...so dont feel like youve gotta continue that...

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These bikes do not need high octane fuel. Heck VP U4 is only 93 octane or so.

I used to run 110 av gas in my 2 strokes w/out any problems, but would never put it in my CRF tank!

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The exhaust valves don't wear as quick because the are SS. Once you need to shim an intake they are stuffed. The valve will only wear once the hard coating wears off. If you shim the valve it is a waste of time. I know a guy that had 03 and 04 crf's. He would get about 25 hours until the valves needed shimming, if he shimmed them he would be lucky to get a further 3 hours before they needed shimming again.

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I've changed the oil at least every 5 hours: Mobil 1 Red Cap in engine side and Honda gear oil in tranny side. I may have over-oiled the air filter on occassion. If you over-oil you can go twice as long between changes, right? (That's a joke for those of you with no sense of humor.) I swap between the stock filter and a Twin Air between changes. The only other non-standard thing I've done is run a 50/50 mix of 91 octane and 100LL (AVGAS) for races, since the highest you can get at the pump in Cali' is 91. The LL in 100LL means low lead. Any chance that's what's built up on the valve stems? I haven't touched the jets since I bought it. Do these run rich from the factory? The valve is not bent, just camera distortion. Although I had bad luck with the stock valves I'm replacing with same, mainly because the Kibblewhite spring kit is many $. I think it's a total scam you can't buy just the Kibblewhite intake springs. If I run through the second set of stock valves I'll try Kibblewhite -- or maybe just sell the bike. Besides as long as I do better filter maintenance I should get about 500 hours on this top end right?! :banghead: (Another joke.)

you need to stop mixing your fuel,

you would be better off just to run the 91 pump than to mix the av,

the bike will stay cleaner and not have all those nasty lead deposits and pits on the valve if you just ran 91 unleaded.

if you ran race fuel like u4 or f&l the combuston chamber would be very dry and clean and have none of the engine dirt all over the valve and piston.

and 5 hrs run time is way to long on oil .

these thing need to be cleaner than that .

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you need to stop mixing your fuel,

you would be better off just to run the 91 pump than to mix the av,

the bike will stay cleaner and not have all those nasty lead deposits and pits on the valve if you just ran 91 unleaded..

My '05 450X will occasionally ping/knock at low RPM's in 2nd gear

and "on it" and I'm just running std premium pump fuel. (no its not

chain slap-that I can tell is different sound). Bike is all stock so far

and runs good/strong other wise...

Kelstr, what would you recommend to cure the pinging?

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My '05 450X will occasionally ping/knock at low RPM's in 2nd gear

and "on it" and I'm just running std premium pump fuel. (no its not

chain slap-that I can tell is different sound). Bike is all stock so far

and runs good/strong other wise...

Kelstr, what would you recommend to cure the pinging?

The jetting might be too lean, if it's pinging. Try moving your clip down on the needle and see if it cures it or makes it better. You might need a fatter main.

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