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oil and oil screens

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Hey guys. Need a little help please. :banghead: I can not get the oil screens out of my bike. Does the one on the bottom of the engine have to have a special tool? I used an allen wrench and tapped with a hammer, :banghead: but still could not break it loose.

Also is there another oil, besides Mortrex that anyone would recommend?

I'm ridding an 2004 exc-450. Thanks.

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do a search, there's a ton of stuff on this and specifically on how to get the bolt out. bottom line, the lower oil screen bolt is a PITA for many folks to get off and many have stripped the socket. Get a BRAP or Slavens oil screen replacement bolt asap.

I am not aware that folks have had any issues getting the upper oil screen bolt off (and the screen will come out with it but note that the manual tells you specifically how to put that screen back in).

Finally, I use Spectro or Motorex. Do a search as the issue of what oil to run has been beaten to death. There are two camps -- those who say screw it and just use anything that looks remotely like oil and those that are nervous nellies and only use Motorex. I am toward the nervous nelly side b/c oil cost is not a break the bank issue for me and I don't race so I only do about 8 oil and filter changes a season (April-November -- basically every 2-4 rides or once a month). But I admit that there are plenty of decent lower priced oils out there. My local shop carries Spectro.

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Get thee to KTMTalk and do a search. Tons of great advice.

Lumpy is right about the Brap bolt. KTM even made one, but it's back ordered last time I checked. Personally, I fall into the other oil camp and use other stuff. Like diesel car/truck oil from Wallyworld. Tons and tons of stuff all over the internet about oils.

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I have never had a problem with the bottom allen bolt. Lube it a little (usually has oil on it already) and DONT OVERTIGHTEN!!

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I've never had a problem with the lower bolt either........... Well actually I have, I bought the bike used, and the bolt was a mess when I got it. I just bought another stock bolt when I did my first oil change ($4 instead of $20), use anti-sieze, and torque to spec (7 ft/lbs). Since then I've never had a single problem with it.

I'm in the middle on the oil thing. I use Belray Thumper, a simi-sythetic blend. It's a few bucks a quart cheaper than the full synthetic oils, gives me good clutch performance, and I change it everyt couple hundred miles so it never has a chance to break down.

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OK...how about the actual oil CHANGES? I was reading the manual and they talk about tipping the bike on it's side and filling the 2 resevoirs 1/2 way w/ oil? Then soaking the (2) filters in oil before putting them back in?

Does everybody do this? I've never heard of the concept? I have 3 bikes and a quad and have never heard about this process before??

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OK...how about the actual oil CHANGES? I was reading the manual and they talk about tipping the bike on it's side and filling the 2 resevoirs 1/2 way w/ oil? Then soaking the (2) filters in oil before putting them back in?

Does everybody do this? I've never heard of the concept? I have 3 bikes and a quad and have never heard about this process before??

It's a good idea to do it. It would be similar to when in cars and trucks you fill the screw on oil filters with oil before you mount them to the engine. You should actually tip the bike on its side before you remove the old oil filters so that you don't spill any oil, then use a turkey baster or syringe to remove the old oil from the filter cavities.

:banghead:

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Yes common problem. Due to an incompatibility between the two metals (that being the allen head cap and the casing). I had to lay over my bike and soak in CRC and just work away at getting it out. Finally i got it out with an oversize TORX head socket and a breaker bar but the plug was destroyed...Next time you put it back in ensure you use either plenty of copper base antisieze or even better, thread tape. And dont overtighten!!!! And since my rebuild i have used Slkolene PRO 4 as it is much cheaper than motorex and is (sorry i hate this argument) but is aparently a better oil

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Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to go ahead and order a Brap bolt so I'll have it on hand for the next oil change. I know I'm going to mess up the original one. I have allready ordered a new plug for the screen on the side, because I rounded it off with a brand new socket the first time and still did not get it out. I bought the bike used and am not sure if the first owner ever took them out or not. It almost fells like he used locktight. Thanks again.

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you'll get used to the oil change procedure -- drain oil, remove skid plate and the two oil screens and blow them clean, take bike off stand and lean over to replace filters, fill oil filter cavities 1/2 way, soak filters and drop them in, put bike on stand and fill with oil to 1/2-3/4 sight glass. different than what you are used to but no big deal. a little more messy than ususal but hey you are getting a high performance race bike in return so treat it right. hey, what else are you gonna do, watch TV all night?

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Actually, let me clarify. I take off the skid plate first, then put the bike on the stand and you might want to put a thin piece of wood or something under the front of the engine cradle so that cradle is at least level so that all oil will drain out. Then take bike off the stand to get the lower oil screen out. So there's some back and forth on and off the stand but like I said it's no big deal after you do it a few times.

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filling the cavities just insures you have oil in the pump when you start the bike, and helps prevent damaging the motor, in the unlikely event that debri clogged an oil line. Some people who have been changing oil and not filters, have been finding at a later date, that the used, wet filters, were getting sucked into little balls in the filter chambers, because of the lack of oil in the chambers. From what I saw it was the K&N filters having this problem the most. Consider stainless steel filters. They pay for themselves by the 6th oil change. I also have been using the Silkolene semi synthetic oil. It seems to be just as good as anything else out there. Car and truck oil isn't the best, because oil for your car/truck, may be too slick to use in a bike that uses the engine oil to also lubricate the clutch. Car and truck oil can significantly increase clutch slippage, increasing the wear on those parts.

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regarding the whole stainless filters debate -- go do a search there's a lot on it. Many go stainless and love them (I have not as of yet), but while they increase flow it is b/c they filter less (higher micron size). so pick your poison. I understood that filling the oil cavities 1/2 way was to prevent dry filters from getting ripped when the flow of oil first gets pumped into the cavities after the oil change. anyway, no need to revisit all these issues here -- just go do a search here and at KTMTalk as there is a ton of info out there. then just do what makes you comfortable.

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Actually, let me clarify. I take off the skid plate first, then put the bike on the stand and you might want to put a thin piece of wood or something under the front of the engine cradle so that cradle is at least level so that all oil will drain out. Then take bike off the stand to get the lower oil screen out. So there's some back and forth on and off the stand but like I said it's no big deal after you do it a few times.

Or drill a hole in the bottom of the skid plate so you can get at the bolt. I stuff some foam in there when I am done so it stays somewhat clean and un- obstructed. Just saves 10 min on the oil change.

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Best bet on the side oil screen bolt is a 6-point 13mm socket with a pipe on the end of the rachet for additional torque.

For the bottom oil screen bolt I had to tip the bike on its side, take a 8mm allen socket, use my impact driver and beat it silly with a big hammer.

I replaced the bottom bolt with a brap, put anti-seize on both bolts, torqued to spec (7lb) and have had no issues with either bolt since.

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