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First Start since re-jet

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Yo TT.

Cranked the engine for the first time since i re-jetted. Needed choke to get her going and once i took it off the engine quit :banghead:

Fiddled with the screw at idle and it eventually started idling although i don't think it was because of me...

Smelled a bit rich. Will have more when i give it a test ride. Still waiting for bolts to come in so i can secure my tank!

155 main , 22.5 pilot

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no not particularly high. usually when i have the choke on, then turn it off (when rpms start climbing), it idles smoothly right away. but this time it just killed it right away. after a couple tries it seemed to idle fine. (warm?) don;t have any idea where my fuel screw is postioned as i was fiddling trying to get it to run. i;m sure all the wrinkles will get worked out trial and error style but i really don't know where to start if it continues...

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How long was it choked for? Sounds like it's the same thing that mine does when it's still cold and I want to take it off of choke too soon. The next fire up even without choke usually is successful.

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just till the revs start climbing quite a bit. its all speculation at this point... ill gey some more firm symptoms when i get off work.

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can anyone describe to me what effects will be obsevered altering the different parts of the carb. For instance a bigger main jet will make it richer? turning in the fuel screw makes it richer. the pilot jet is for idle. don't know what the hell i'm talking about as you can see...

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Fuel screw effects pilot fuel mixture. You manipulate the fuel screw within a range of adjustment and if you cannot get the mixture right then you change the pilot jet to a larger size to make it richer overall or a size smaller to make it leaner overall.

Pilot jetting effects the mixture at idle.

Main jet effects the mixture at WOT.

The Needle position effects the mixture at slide positions between WOT and idle. It also will effect WOT mixture when you raise or lower the clip.

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thanks nate thats just the info i needed! How does sliding the needle postion one way or another effect the way the bike runs? I imagine if it bogs in a certain part of the rev range moving it postion up or down will possibly cure it?

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You want to get the right taper profile for a given size main jet. So the AF ratio is right as you open the slide.

If you feel it bog at certain slide positions either the needle profile sucks or you need to move the needle position. Moving it down a clip raises the needle therefore increasing fuel. Moving the clip up drops the needle making it leaner.

The reason you do a Dynojet kit is the overall profile of the needle is a huge improvement over the stock needle.

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if it coughs and sputters off the bottom(0-1/4 throttle)get a 25pj or play with the fuel screw(if you order one tomorrow it will be in by fri).it probally died because it wasn't warmed up enough(mine does this too although it is more prevelent at this time of year)if the bike coughs and sputters or just the odd pop when you are climbing up the revs wide open then your probally to rich on the mj.i noticed when too rich on the mj and the needle my top speed decresed.if you have surging mid way through the revs(1/4-3/4 throttle) the mj is probally to lean.if you search my threads in the jetting forum you might get a hold on whats going on.or just pm burned he will get it running like a top(just like mine.) :banghead:

BTW-its humid down there that also makes it run rich.good luck :banghead:

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