oil drain bolt

is the oil drain bolt a standard bolt that i might find in the fastener rack or do i need to buy the overpriced OEM version? partsfish lists it as 'BOLT, DRAIN PLUG (12x15)' which i assume means M12x15mm. anyone know for sure?

its relatively important because once i get it out with the tools at school if i can't get a replacement off the wall i can't ride to the dealer to pick up a new bolt, due to lack of oil :banghead:

you might have problems with a regular bolt leaking, but i don't know for sure. i know SOME bolts have special chamfers machined into the flange. Some aftermarket is available though, 'cuz I saw some on the shelf at Cycle Gear last night. Try calling the TT store :banghead:

XR's only has a magnetic one - every one could use one!

I heartily second a magnetic drainplug!

You can use a bolt of the same thread depth/length. Nothing longer should go up into the crankcase because you do not know the internal tolerances. Make sure you use a soft washer made out of aluminum or copper to seal things up until you can get the proper bolt. I would stick with stock for reasons mentioned before and they have a nice flanged area for the washer to seat on. BTW the washer should be replaced every change. You did not say why you have to replace the bolt????

If possible you should take these guys advise on the magnetic drain plug if for no other reason than it is an early warinig device for pending trouble.

--Nice avatar ccaddy!

Stillsun er JTurmel, I bought one of your magnetic bolts and fancy rubber-lined washers...but couldn't use the washer on my 03 XR250R, the diameter of the washer is too large, the bolt/washer seat area on the engine is machined and has a ridge around 3/4 of the seat surface that distorts/ruins the too large washer...no mind, I just reused my stock alum washer, I've never had a leak and don't expect one now...

i need a new bolt because i'm an idiot and stripped the head off the old one. probably over-torqued it last time i changed the oil, or something equally lame.

anyways, i'll buy a new stock bolt tomorrow and it should be alright.

:banghead::banghead: I fully concur with Mar,finger tight, then just a little snug for re-assurance.To bad your not close to me, I replaced mine with magnetic ones,engine and frame,Id be glad to help you out. XR_Ron 86xr600,very clean XR250,modded-work in progress,kids xr100,all modded some
Stillsun er JTurmel, I bought one of your magnetic bolts and fancy rubber-lined washers...but couldn't use the washer on my 03 XR250R, the diameter of the washer is too large, the bolt/washer seat area on the engine is machined and has a ridge around 3/4 of the seat surface that distorts/ruins the too large washer...no mind, I just reused my stock alum washer, I've never had a leak and don't expect one now...

We also carry copper crush washers if that is what you prefer... on the sizes (12 and 14mm plugs) that we can get the rubber molded one's we do, just for the simple fact that you can use them over and over again without fear of it leaking, after a few uses of a copper crush washer, sometimes even just one use you have to replace it. No big deal, but sometimes you just don't always have an extra copper/aluminum washer on hand to do so... anyways, glad you liked the plug, be assured the real cost of the plug (which we offer at a super low price to begin with) is in the plug itself, the washers are "cheap."

Let us know if you need any for the rest of your bikes, we can always mix and match bulk purchases too; and if you want copper instead of molded rubber just let us know.

Thank you. :applause:

So many people strip out oil drain plugs trying to torque them its not even funny.
Yeah, I read somewhere that any amount of oil on the threads really distorts the reading on a torque wrench and it won't click until it's waaaaay over-torqued.

People need to stop ham-fisting their oil drain bolts, about the easiest way to do it is to just use a 1/4" drive ratchet so that it's harder to put a lot of leverage on it....and do it until it's snug and then maybe another 1/4 turn, and if you're going to use a torque wrench people, for your sake use an inch-lb one and not a ft-lb.

I think another problem is purchasing those aluminum anodized plugs, while they are pretty, they are aluminum and that just adds to the problem.


When i was yonuger i was ganging the oil on my xr 100 and i stiped the thread on the enigine casing buy not turning it the right way and i had the breaker bar on the socket, had to get a helicoil but it still leak after that so i put a fiber washer on and it was fine after that. No i just do them up hand tight then a quater of a turn with the t-bar.

I know there is a torque spec from Honda on that bolt, I think it's 18 lbs-ft. I'm very curious to know if Honda takes into consideration, when they claim the torque rating on the drain plug, that there is no way that bolt is going into the crankcase threads dry, as it is an oil drain plug? You would hope that they would consider the situation, but who knows? If it is a dry torque spec, then you need to reduce the torque by up to 25 percent if I recall correctly, for lubricated threads. With all the folks that strip or otherwise damage their drain plug threads, you would think that the manufacturers would pay a little bit more attention to detail on the torque specs for them.

I'm very curious to know if Honda takes into consideration, when they claim the torque rating on the drain plug, that there is no way that bolt is going into the crankcase threads dry, as it is an oil drain plug?


well, we'll chalk this one up to a lesson learned. it sucks though, it seems the only reliable way to get this bolt out is to take the engine out of the frame so i can get at it with vise grips. i might try an ez-out first and if i snap that then i can still remove the engine..

Use an Aluminum Crush Washer to seal the bolt flange and the engine.

Just in case anyone was interested I got the bolt out tonight (long time, I know..) by pounding an 11mm 12-point socket on with a bigassed hammer. It came right out. Now I just have to figure out the best way to get the bolt out of the socket :applause:

Thanks for the help.

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