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Did I ruin my engine? PLEASE HELP!!!


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I had a major oil leak at the front sprocket. I took it apart and found that my front sprocket was loose. Being the "Wannabe" mechanic that I am, I started to take it apart to see if there was a seal that I could take out, take to the dealer, buy and replace. I know, I know, I should have looked here first.

Anyway, after taking off the "Retainer" with my impact screwdriver, I took out some large, round metal thing (I guess it's a spacer and began pulling at the rubber that surrounds the outside of the hole. It ripped in several places and now I am wondering if it is the seal or not. I really hope it is and that it can be removed and replaced, even if I have to take it to the dealer although I would rather do it myself.

Is THAT the seal or did I screw things up down there? :banghead:?:busted:

Does anyone have a picture? Please help me!!! :banghead:

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It's the seal - get a new one...and get the upgraded spacer for it so it doesn't happen again.

I have the "S" model. Please tell me for sure that the rubber outer ring in the opening is part of the seal so I can stop worrying and making myself sick.

If it is, is that the only part (Besides the upgraded spacer) that I need to replace? What is the round spring thing and where exactly does that go?

Thanks for the quick replies.

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I think this is what you are talking about.

Look at #10 09282-14003

Description: OIL SEAL

Source: SUZUKI

Price: $3.86

I believe that is the part that I took out. That goes in before the sprocket goes on right? The fiche makes it look like it goes on after the nut.

But what about the rubber part that is on the outside of the large opening that I tore up? Is that replacable? I don't see that on the fiche.

I swear I am driving myself nuts worrying over it. :banghead:

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You didn't cause any perm. damage. You need a new seal. Do a search on "countershaft" or "countershaft sprocket"to understand why it was loose and how it can be prevented in the future. I havan't done it myself so post any questions on installing the new seal.

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ARe you riding the bike in alot of mud, on the street the stock spacers hold up fine. I replaced one at 14,000 miles, it did not need it and the other one now has 22,000 + miles. Next counter sprocket replacement I'll do the whole seal and spacer set up.

if you ride in alot of corrosive mud the spacer will rust and tear the seal up.

i assume the round spring thing , is part of your seal

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You didn't cause any perm. damage. You need a new seal. Do a search on "countershaft" or "countershaft sprocket"to understand why it was loose and how it can be prevented in the future. I havan't done it myself so post any questions on installing the new seal.

I did a search and found out about the lock tite...thanks.

I have only been in the dirt a couple of times and mostly ride on the street.

The part that I am mainly concerned with is the rubber part on the outer edge of the counter shaft opening. That is the part that I tore up. Is that part of the seal? The rubber part that is on the outer opening.

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This is the fiche you should be looking at.

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/300_0367/transmission/transmission.cfm?man=su&groupid=1660&parent=1610

#23 is your countershaft seal. DO NOT order the part xti referenced! That is the crankshaft seal!! :banghead: The new seal will come with the spring you mentioned. Pull the old seal out with needlenose pliers if you have to or pry it out with a screwdriver, it's shot anyway, just be sure not to damage the crankcase in the process. Drive the new seal in with a piece of pipe with a similar diameter as the outer diameter of the seal or tap it in lightly with a hammer in a circular motion. Look at the spacer too (Item #34). If it has a groove worn in it go ahead and replace it also while you're in there.

BTW, aren't you on TLP? :banghead:

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GT80 gave you good instructions. Another thing that works good driving in seals (besides a seal driving tool of course) is a socket of the correct size. Make sure the socket is hitting the beefy part of the seal, not the inner lip part, so that you are driving against the solid part of the seal. Then just tap the seal in with a hammer. Make sure to keep it straight as you drive it in. Take your time. If the seal cocks, stop, straighten things out and go again. Never force anything when your working on a motor. Once the seal is mostly in, you can stop using the socket and just tap the seal, so you can see when it is flush with the side of the case. Did I mention to take your time? Motor work can be fun if you let it.

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