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Lets talk about my DR for a second.

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Well, I got the acerbis DHH as a birthday gift from my lovely wife, only one issue...it's got to be the ugliest thing I've ever seen, so I'm trading it in for the blitz. The DHH looks like a martian head or something.

Second I just bought a DG skid plate from ebay for $55.00 brand new, does anyone have one of these in use?

And last but not least...Winter is just around the bend and my buddy is telling me I should fill my engine to the top with fresh oil. To help prevent corrosion. Should I do this? I never have in twenty years of motorcycle ownership and have yet to have a problem with a bike after storage. I want to baby my DR so it will last a long time. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance

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I have been told to fill the engine up with oil for long term storage. But I would think that over the winter would be short term. Also, you may get a couple of days warm enough to take it out for a short ride, which will circulate the oil. You can also just start it once in awhile. If you use synthetic oil, that tends to stay on the metal longer than regular oil. For just a couple of months of storage I would fill the gas tank and add some gas stabilizer (wal-mart usually has a product called Sta-bil) and put an automatic trickle charger on on the battery. If you have long periods of extreme sub-zero temperatures you may want to pull the battery and take it inside. Hope this helps some. ~Steve

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I would agree, although winter seems long it is really not long term. Your Michigan season must be similar to mine in western NY. They start to salt late november and don't stop til March. Still that's only a little over 3 months. I try to start mine about once a month and let it run for at least long enough to recharge and thoroughly warm up. With such a short down time topping off the tank is probably the biggest thing. I use Stabil, but even on their bottle the say gas can go bad after 6 months. The only thing I do to most of my "not pampered" engines is turn off the gas and let them run the carb dry (kind of tough on a bike with no "off" - I thought about using hemostats to pinch the line but have neer tried it). The battery can't freeze as long as it is charged up, so unless you have a battery that gets weak sitting that shouldn't be a problem.

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as far as winter storage goes, the oil thing seems a litle on the excessive side. If you're worried at all, just keep the battery in good shape, drain the float bowl, and maybe midway through go pull a spark plug and just turn your bike over to circulate the oil without running it.

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Your storage time does not seem long enough to worry about the more involved storage measures usually performed on vehicles that are intended to be stored for years.

I would just change the oil, trickle-charge the battery, and start her up and ride her around when weather permits.

Also, you do not need to "baby" the DR for it to last a long time. After reading countless testimonials about this bike it's my understanding that to baby it is counter to what the bike was designed to do.

Change the oil, perform regular bike and battery maintenance, and keep it reasonably clean. I think that's all the darn thing needs.

My 2 cents.

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Don't take my statement wrong...I pound the snot out of her and she takes it and wants more, I just don't want to have to do any unexpected head maintanance at the beginning of the season.

I'm running a dry cell battery that is tauted as a "no freeze zero maintanance trouble free unit" so we'll find out cause we do spend a good deal of time below the 0 degree mark.

I have practiced the fuel top off/ stabil additive ritual for a long time, and it has never done me wrong. My buddy is absolutely sure that rust is going to form on his piston rings...so I'll let him fill his bike up, and mine will just get an oil change before her long sleep. Thanks for the advice.

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it actually sounds really bad to fill entire engine with oil. i guess if you drained everything out, then pumped the stuff inside the cylinder out with your engine turned upside down as not to have much inthe combustion chamber to not raise your compression to 20:1. i don't know, just sounds like a horrendous idea.

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A newbies advice. I work with Porsche engines having to be stored all the time. What I do is take the spark plugs out and spray wd40 into the hole and reinstall the plug. One a month I spray again. When I'm ready to fire it up, I remove the plugs and blow out the cyl. with dry compressed air. New plugs and fresh fuel and Vrooommm.

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IF you live in a cold wet climiate check this out----------------------------------------IF the bike is in a shed or garage--Place a breathable canvas cover over the bike with a 60w light bulb under it (the bike). THis will dry the air and the bike will emerge in real good shape after months of wet cold weather, no rust, no probelms, fire right up first try.

What happens is the light bulb gives off just enough heat to drive out the moisture. BINGO, an old sail boat storage tip, used it for years.

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