Quick and clean Trailtech install, DIY picture tutorial

I am not as advanced as some of the wrenchers here on thumpertalk, BUT the things i CAN do, i figure i will share, just in case anyone finds them useful.

Trailtech was nice enough to service my broken computer free of charge, just got it back today...and its going on a new bike. This is a rundown of the install..

First remove the protective plastic guard, and Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the caliper. The upper bolt in the pic has been loosened to illustrate.


Also, one of the rotor hex bolts needs to be removed, and replaced with the magnetic bolt included in the kit. (sorry no pics) Now, take the magnetic sensor and use it as a template to mark the spot on the caliper to drill a 1/8 inch hole.



Center punch your mark, and drill. Use something like a bike stand to rest the caliper on while you drill, because it will not reach the ground with the brake line attached.


Now, use the provided "self-tapping" screw to attach the magnetic sensor to the caliper.


Now re-install your caliper, and tighten the bolts to spec torque.

Run the computer cable along with your brake line, and tighten in into the pinch holders. Add a zip tie to keep the cable away from the rotor.


Re-install your plastic protector and route your cable along with your brake line. Add a few zip ties to keep them from slapping around.



Now here i have used my stock ODO mount, turned upside down...I drilled holes to mount the trailtech base, and bolted it back in stock location. Must remove your headlight shroud for this part.



Mount the computer in the base, and again, ties added to keep the cables from slapping around.


The headlight shroud is re-mounted. The stock ODO mount can be flexed up and down slightly, to optimize the viewing position of the computer. here i am bending it toward me, for a nice, glare free view.


Now we mark the front tire, and mark the ground. Sit on the bike (for a more accurate reading) and roll one revolution of the front tire, marking the ground again. We then measure the distance between the two points in inches.




This number is multiplied by 25.4 to attain the distance in mm, and this value is entered into the computer following the directions in the quick start guide.

And thats that!!!!

Thanks for watching!

Nice job............. :banghead:

Vorra, i want that promoto endcap you scored off ebay.

give it to me.

That was a steal, no? I guess I got lucky, and saw it right after he listed it. You'll be the first, if I decide to let it go. I've got the Dubach S/A on my bike right now, and I know it doesn't meet the 96db even with the quiet core in it. I'm going to throw that PMB in with the quiet insert, and check it with my sound meter. Hopefully it will bring the sound down. Good for me, but bad for you.:banghead:

The PMB stuff is really nice. I'm not real crazy that, my wash plug does no good with that setup. But I'm sure a neoprene coozy cup-stretched, will work good on the end when it comes to cleanup time. :banghead:

I gotta get me one of those Trail Tech's-nice.

I like that Corbon fiber pipe gaurd.

What pipe is it covering?

I would like to get one for my FMF pipe but the pipe has no fasteners to mount it.

The pipe guard is on the stock titanium head pipe, and bolted to the stock mounting positions.

THe guard is from ebay, from a company called "allcarbonfiber"

Buying from them is a bit of a caveat emptor...as i have read on the net that a great deal of the CF items they sell are of poor quality, and do not fit...things like street bike farings, and racecar hoods.

But as for the pipe guard, it is awesome, great fit and finish, and you can score them pretty cheap on his auctions.

A buddy of mine just scored a CF wr skid plate from them...i will report as to how it looks/fits.

Hey Arin. Where on the sensor does the magner pass? Is it centered on the sensor? If it is you may find that you get a double reading and your computer at times telling you that you are goinh 100mph instead of the actual 50mph. If you find this what you have to do is relocate the caliper mounted sensor slightly one way ot the other so that the magnet passs over one end of the sensor instead of the middle of it. I dont know if Trail tech mentions that in there instructions or not. But its a common problem.

I will 2nd that! if the sensor bolt is too central on the caliper pickup, it will give a double reading. I found the easiest way to get an acurate measurement reading was to file the drilled hole in the sensor into a sort of slot, that way you can slide it back an forth so the magnetic pickup will record the acurate speed measurement, then fasten it down, works a treat.

i just wish my battery would last longer in my Trailtech, i seem to be replacing it every 28 days or so :banghead: and i keep losing my tachometer overall recorded mileage? :banghead:


i just wish my battery would last longer in my Trailtech, i seem to be replacing it every 28 days or so :banghead: and i keep losing my tachometer overall recorded mileage? :banghead:

You might have a defective PC board, My battery has lasted 2 years.


you may not have the auto-off turned on...assume that you CAN turn it on or off...

my auto-off is for 30 minutes...then it shuts down automatically.

Also, i went on an extended ride today, and had no issues with the computer giving double readings. It always seemed to be right on. So, maybe by sheer luck i got the sensor in a good spot.

Thanks for the tutorial. I have been using a regular bicycle computer on my WR for years but the sensor mounting location was not ideal. I had it strapped to the fork guard and it was vulnerable to getting damaged. I have had to resolder it numerous times. Seeing the way you did yours, I redid mine yesterday and I think it will stand up much better to abuse in the woods.

Okay Vorra. How Much?

Okay Vorra. How Much?

How much what?

How much to make me one then drive to Texas and install the entire setup.

Or maybe how much to make another bracket and ship it to me?

Looks great guys.... I'm curious to see if the newer Trailtech's last longer than the older ones.. My father and brother both had them, both units vibrated themselves to death... Geoff at Trailtech stands behind his products if anything goes wrong..

Great tutorial! :applause::ride: Had to locate my sensor more to the left than what you show on the picture. I have an 05' WR450. Did you have as much trouble getting out the bolt on your brake rotor as I did. I had to drill it and use an easy out. Yamaha must use permenate loctite in these.!!!!

Yes, i pretty much buggered up the bolt when getting it out of my 250..shredded up my knuckles too..but it came out super easy on my 450...

It would be more cost effective for you, to buy the mount LIKE THIS from Trail Tech. Actually, if I could have made that one work, I would have bought it. I run Pro Taper 1 1/8 bar adapters and the pad in my picture's. And I think the Trail Tech dashboard would have put the computer too close to the bar pad to get to..Besides the fact, I like to make my own stuff if I can.

This is an interesting rig, being used with fat bar's and a wide Pro Taper bar pad. But I didn't see anywhere on their website where you could buy that bar pad. HERE is what it looks like with their dashboard and 7/8 bars.

I did not think that the dash would work with the headlight?

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