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2006 WR250F Emissions removal???


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I see the GYTR kit for the 450:

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/products/modelscitemdetail/5/210/1222/5389/all/1/6228/0/0/detail.aspx

I'm not sure if it's available for the 250 yet. The GYTR kit is a really good deal. I've already purchased the YZ throttle limiter for $20 and the Thumper Talk AIS kit for $40. With the GYTR you get both of these items plus a new pilot and needle, all for $40. Even if you only use the throttle stop and AIS plugs you're saving money over the way I went about it.

Also it looks like with the GYTR kit you leave the fitting in that I'm having trouble removing, and just cap the fitting and put the hose clamp on it. Very simple setup, although the Thumper kit will look cleaner if I actually get that fitting out.

The GYTR saves money and is easier to install, sounds good to me.

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The most criticle parts are the plugs themselves and they fit both bikes.

The jet is the only part I am not 100% sure of. which is no big deal. the stock needle is a fixed position needle and the gytr needle has grooves like the used to have. same taper just adjustable

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I wish I'd have known about the GYTR kit, too.

But, the TT kit is gonna look a lot more sano when done.

Agreed. :applause:

And lets face it, looks are much more important than function. We definitely made the right decision to spend more time and money than needed to accomplish the exact same task. :ride:

I'm kidding of course. The GYTR AIS would look half assed, I still plan to use the TT AIS.

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You're welcome. Let me know how it works out. :applause:

Well, I went to Lowe's this morning, and got a length of allthread and some nuts and washers. It works great.

Only problem is, the vice grips are not getting enough bite on the fitting; four or five good whacks, and they slip out.

If I had access to a welder, which I don't, I'd just tack the allthread right to the fitting. So, for now I'm stumped. :ride:

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Too bad there's not more material to get a good grip on. :applause: If this is just a pressed-in fitting, a bit of dry ice on it for a few minutes may shrink it up enough to come out with the four of five good whacks. Get as much contact between the metal fitting and the dry ice as possible, let it "cold soak" for a few minutes, and try the slide hammer again.

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When you get to "It's all or nuttin'" stage here's a suggestion. Go to your local plumber's supply store and take your all-thread with you. In industrial buildings where the plumbing is in the ceiling they hang the pipes off all-thread. What you are looking for is the hangar. There is a type that looks like a nut with arms on it. Get one that fits your all-thread and narrow arms.

The idea is to drill a hole through the fitting and bolt it to the hangar on the all-thread / slide hammer. It will ruin the fitting but it will come out :applause:

You can also make one out of flatstock :ride:

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I love this place.

I gave up and put it back together. Gotta leave early in the morning to go riding with my buddy.

I'll be trying the dry ice on Sunday (grocery store down the street sells it), and if that fails, the hanger on Monday.

Thanks again, guys.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I love this place.

I gave up and put it back together. Gotta leave early in the morning to go riding with my buddy.

I'll be trying the dry ice on Sunday (grocery store down the street sells it), and if that fails, the hanger on Monday.

Thanks again, guys.

Did you ever try to remove that fitting again? If not will you be sending back the TT kit? I still haven't tried the needle nose idea yet.

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Find a piece of solid stock (bolt, solid steel rod, etc) that will just fit inside the fitting snugly. Leave some sticking out in case you need to remove it. Then you can clamp down on it with a pair of vice grips using some serious force without just crushing the fitting. Twist, turn, pull. Or get a piece that is long enough to use the slide hammer rig on it mentioned earlier.

If that fails try heating the fitting with a torch till red. Let cool and it should be looser in the head after it shrinks. Mapp gas or even a propane torch may get it hot enough if you don't have access to acetelyne.

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  • 1 month later...

I haven't attempted to remove it again. I think the solid stock idea combined with full size vise grips and slide hammer suggestion will be the one to work. I've got a bunch of parts coming for my bike this week so I'll be in the garage working on it again, I plan to give it another try then.

Part of the reason I've put off trying to remove it is because my last attempt back in Nov the fitting started to crack and fall apart. I don't want to destroy the fitting and still not have it out.

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Seems like a lot of work, for what?

Other than just getting the smog stuff off of there (which is a violation of Federal law BTW), does it actually improve performance?

The evap cannister on the DRZ adds weight. The throttle stops, grey/pink wire, and plugged exhausts undeniably restrict performance.

Does the AIS actually hurt? The issue on automobiles with the "smog pumps" in the '70s was that the pump drew HP from the engine to pump the air into the exhaust... there's nothing like that feeding the AIS.

When I worked at Pep Boys in '82, I got a LOT of carb core returns brought in with every vacuum line cut and plugged with a screw and some silicone.

Two weeks later, the customer would be back complaining that his new carb didn't work any better than his old one. Yup... caps on everything.

I don't have a problem with mods that improve performance or reduce weight by a noticeable amount, but is there really a need to mess with the AIS? As time goes on and EFI is added, our systems will become more complex and it will be increasingly risky to simply yank parts without careful cost/risk/benefit analysis.

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