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Rg 3 Valve Stack

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On my 07 I used .47 mains, 1.76 pressure springs. I weigh 195 lbs.

Valving

14-30x.1

1-18x.1

2-30x.1

1-29x.1

down to a

1-19x.1

Stock bleed valving, stock midvalve, stiffer rebound damping but I cant find my notes on that.

FC spring seats(inner tubes have to be machined), oil lock collars and 390cc 5wt oil.

They are the best forks Ive ever had. Good on little stuff, great on slapdowns and screw ups or over jumps.

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On my 07 I used .47 mains, 1.76 pressure springs. I weigh 195 lbs.

Valving

14-30x.1

1-18x.1

2-30x.1

1-29x.1

down to a

1-19x.1

Stock bleed valving, stock midvalve, stiffer rebound damping but I cant find my notes on that.

FC spring seats(inner tubes have to be machined), oil lock collars and 390cc 5wt oil.

They are the best forks Ive ever had. Good on little stuff, great on slapdowns and screw ups or over jumps.

So you took the OEM stack of 16-30's and removed 2-30's changed the 28 cross over to a 18 (that was the OEM Pivot) and added the 2 extra 30's back under the 18 cross. Nice pretty close to the RG3 stack

14-30x.1

1-18x.1

2-30x.1

1-29x.1

down to a

1-19x.1

Ya its great to finally get some thing that works right:thumbsup:

There are just so many was to get from point A to B

theDogger

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Well, on my new/used 05crf450 I`m running

12x30x.1 may add back 1 or 2 more 30`s as I get faster.

28x.1

26x.1

25x.1

24x.1

23x.1

22x.1

21x.1

20x.1

19x.1

18x.1

top out plate(stock)

stock rebound with 5wt inner chamber fluid and M1 outer at 375cc with .49 springs. rebound 7/8 compression 8to 12 clicks out.

then shock

exact copy of 07 crf450 shock shim stacks with 5.5kg spring(stock)150psi nitro

this setup is for a 185lb. senior "b" rider for motocross

all I have to say is I don`t need gloves!!! all stuff learned from "TT", dogger, kestr, shawn, etc etc. could not be happier with my new Honda!

:cheers::p:bonk: Thanks guys!

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There are just so many was to get from point A to B

theDogger

"or so many ways to skin a cat" as they say at the orange site.

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instead of 16,30x.10's

they run 12,30x.10's

then a 17 or a 20x.10

then start the highspeed stack

with a 30x.15

and then the 29-28-27-26 and so on.

then they generally take 1 or 2, 20x.10's out of the compression side of the mid.

they run a cr 250 i.c.s. spring, --the 1.6 kg.

and they like 365 cc of oil, this is usually what you get. they will add or subtract oil and add or subbtract spring weight for the rider weight :lol:

the last 10 of the rg3 units were almost a carbon copy of this :worthy:

hope this helps !

Does anyone have the shock valving to match these fork settings ? Thanks !

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I wasn't going to change the midvalve ! LOL ! I maybe old but not that old ! LOL ! :lol: It not for my bike anyway. Its a friend of minds bike.

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i generally add 1 extra 20 on the compression side of the mid and this cuts the float down .015 , but thats just me :lol:

Thanks. Thats what I've been doing and guys say I'm nuts but then they ride my bike and love it.

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The by pass is: (from bottom up)

10) .10 x16

1) .10 x 15

1) .10 x 14

1) .10 x 13

1) .10 x 12

1) .20 x 11

Hope this helps

Does the by pass have any function? Can I add my removed shims from the stack above the washer to it so the nut on the top has thread?

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Does the by pass have any function? Can I add my removed shims from the stack above the washer to it so the nut on the top has thread?

Ok the compression adjustment stack does have an effect. It is used to control dive....I have seen it used different ways....FC removes some of the 16's like this

5-16 x .10

1-15x.10

1-14 x .10

1-12 x .10

1-11 x .20

5-16 x.10 (removed shims from the 10 flipped over)

1-16 x.20

What this does is makes the first couple inches of travel softer but the transition into the mid-stroke becomes harsher.

But on the other hand I have see RG3 Stacks that are like this

14-16 x .10

1-15x.10

1-14 x .10

1-12 x .10

1-11 x .20

1-16 x.20

This on the other hand helps hold the fork up in the stroke making the transition into the mid-stroke plusher.

I have done both but for different types of riders and skills. I usually remove some for lighters riders like girls and light boys on the 250f's and for woods riders.

Then for faster riders and heavier riders i will add to the stack...

And for just weekend warriors I just leave it stock. Ihope that this helps

theDogger:thumbsup:

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Thanks, that does help.

how about this....i have removed shims in my stack and now the nut on top does not have enough thread to keep the piston tight. How can i fix this? Can I add the removed shims back in a place that will have not effect?

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I have not had a chance to measure the float. I am aware that I have locked it pretty good. I am going to be taking them apart to freshen all the shims and I will measure the float and post it.

As far as the spring preload goes I did not want to change it at all and no I did not try it just as a bleed and single stack.

I have gotten a lot of good responses for the idea of the website. I do realize that I would be stepping on a lot of toe's. But the website would be for the DIY'ers and people looking for quick answers who do not have the time to wait for a legit response. Sure there will be some scabs that will try and profit from it but I think that they will be exposed quickly.

I have never in anyway ever wanted to make a buck from doing suspension but if my buddy wanted me to do it for him it would be for free. He would have to be there threw the entire process so he would be able to learn and take over himself down the road.

You know it is hard sometimes on the forums to get people to completely understand what you are trying to accomplish. Would be great to have some sort of voice conf. system so things can get explained the way that the person intended.

To me that is what the site would before and about.

theDogger

Old thread, but what is the status on the website Dogger?

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Thanks, that does help.

how about this....i have removed shims in my stack and now the nut on top does not have enough thread to keep the piston tight. How can i fix this? Can I add the removed shims back in a place that will have not effect?

What does your stack look like?

If you have any shims under your clamp you can remove them and also make sure that the piston is on correctly...

theDogger

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Old thread, but what is the status on the website Dogger?

Way too bust to finish the site the way that I want it.....but still helping everyone...

theDogger

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This on the other hand helps hold the fork up in the stroke making the transition into the mid-stroke plusher. (Talking about a RG3 stack)

Would that work to smooth out small acceleration bumps?

My stock 07 450 (with .46 in the front and 5.6 in the back) works pretty much everywhere except at the end of hare scrambles when the course is all chewed up. These small bumps are killing me. I can feel every single ones of them.

The course is a mix of MX track, and more open track with sweeping turns. The wide open stuff is the problem. You get out of a turn and 3rd and 4th gear acceleration shakes your fillings loose.

I'm 6'3", 195lbs without gear, toward the top of the novice class.

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What are your current stacks?

Also should be .48 - .49 in the front. I am not a fan of under-springing...is the suspension packing? Are you too deep in the stroke? What are your clickers set at? Oil height?

Rear sag? Should be 103mm-108mm on the CRF's...Also I am a huge fan of the FC HSC Spring running it at 3 out from hard...

theDogger

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Hey, I don't mean to hijack the thread. So you guys can tell me to start my own damn thread if it is more appropriate.

Interesting about the spring rate. I went with the MX tech recommendation, but I can see that race tech recommends .487, basically what you suggest. So maybe I am too deep in the stroke.

I have the stock stack. At least I assume I do. I bought the bike used and it was set up for a much lighter rider by a local race shop (RDP) Not knowing what they did, I had a coworker (who used to be a suspension tech) put things back to stock for me. He is good with servicing suspensions, (as in changing oil, seals, and bushings) but not necessarily up to speed on tuning.

The only thing I've been playing with is oil height and clickers. Right now I went with the minimum height in the manual: 311cc and I'm 17 out on compression and 15 out on rebound. I was at 13 rebound but I was getting major head shake on these small bumps. Going softer seems to have helped a bit.

It might be marginally better than with 384cc but since I have limited riding time and it was too far between the changes I can't tell for sure. (Oil height affect things close to full compression right? So if my issue is with these small acceleration would you expect to see much difference there?)

I asked on TT about the stock stack when I bought the bike and this is what people came up with:

default compression:

16-30.1

28.1

29.1

28.1

27.1

26.1

25.1

24.1

23.1

22.1

21.1

20.1

19.1

18.1

30x2.00 base plate

16.2

11.2

12.1

13.1

14.1

15.1

9-16.1

Mid default:

6-20.1

4-17.1

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OK not a fan of MX tech. They tend to valve and spring on the soft side. If you are OEM stacks now....which you should confirm first. You are going to have to make changes to the Forks and Shock to get them to work right.....do me a favor and go to the CRF450 forum and at the top is my DIY thread post in there and I can help you out..

theDogger

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Just picked up a new 2010 crf450r, I am looking at fixing the float & replacing .46 w/.48kg springs, .30 of mid valve float seems to be the obvious problem along with the shock valving being to slow, I have a PC link arm and am working on a valving spec, .15-.20 of float with a 2 stage BV has worked great on previous CRF's I am 165lb Vet-B and like forks that stayup in the stroke but are fluid and MV suggestions to start

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