fitting trailtech computer to XR400

Has anyone fitted a trailtech computer to there XR400. I am thinking of buying one but what was wondering if they are difficult to fit. Can I still keep the original instruments i.e. run the trailtech in conjunction with the original?How much work is involved to fit the trailtech?


XR400- 05

WR200 - 96

There is no need for you to keep the original equipment on and pretty sure you will notice that after your first use. I use the Billet protector that mounts to the front handlebar mount bolts and centers it with the handlebars. I wrecked my first Trail Tech without the guard and since buying the Billet protector I have had no problems with the new one in a couple of years. I make sure I remove the unit at wash time. As for install, it is very easy, the hardest part is getting the pickup attached the the front caliper. thumbsup:

I had a Trail Tech on my XR400 with the billet mount housing. You can keep the stock odometer, but you'll have to buy a relocation bracket from Scotts, XR's Only or someone else to move it to the far right side of the triple clamp. The Trail Tech mounts where the stock odo mounts.

I can honestly say that I had no problems with it in the 1347 miles and 34 hours that I used it-- and it was UNBELIEVABLY accurate, but I am old school and it is too much of a fancy gadget for me.

By the way...the whole set up is for sale for $50, computer, mount, billet housing, original boxes and instructions, etc.

I would include the relocation bracket for the stock odometer $20 more.

ill buy the trail tech computer from you for $50

Sweet Deal, you will love it. :applause:

I just installed one today along with new Pro Taper bars on my 250. The computer took me a bit to install only b/c I'm really anal. You do have to remove the brake caliper to mount the sensor. Not a big deal at all. Next I ran the wire up the fork. I did cut the 2 plastic guides that the brake hose runs up through so that I could slip the wire for the computer in it. Afterwards, I epoxied over where I cut.

The docking station would not mount to my stock odometer plate. Mounting it to my bars was not an option b/c I couldn't see the screen then. The guy at TT wanted to sell me the billet one. I wanted to get it done today. I ended up making my own plate from aluminum diamond plate. I bolted in the location of the stock plate. I drilled 2 holes throught the diamond plate and ran 2 self-tapping screws up into the docking station. Then I bolted the plate to the top clamp. Wires are hidden and it looks clean.

My only concern was with the magnet on the rotor. I think they want XR owners to drill a 3/8 hole in the rotor and use a small magnet with a lock ring. I ended up using a supplied magnetic bolt in place of one of the rotor bolts. It didn't line up very well with the sensor but it reads. Wont know until tomorrow if it's accurate.








Can you reset the trailtech computer in tenths?

I installed a Trail Tech Computer on my 04' XR250 yesterday. I used the rotor replacement bolt and I had to slide the pickup sensor 1/4" away from the bolt hole. The directions show mounting it closer to the top bolt hole. I could not get a reading in this location. :bonk: It works great in the new location, no problems. :applause:

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I've searched and haven't found a good answer. Which billet mount are you guys using, the top mount, bottom mount, or stock mount?


I have the Top mount, Check it out.

Nice pics. :applause: From the first pic, it looks like the billet would be fairly tight against the front number plate (but looks like you don't have it installed). Can you tell the rest of us, who do have the plate, if the billet mount will press against it and bend it out of alignment? Additionally, did you have any issues with getting the cabling and brake lines routed around the billet?

This and a few other items are my next upgrades for the bike. Glad to see this thread and the info in it. Very helpful.

I installed a Trail Tech Computer on my 04' XR250 yesterday. I used the rotor replacement bolt and I had to slide the pickup sensor 1/4" away from the bolt hole. The directions show mounting it closer to the top bolt hole. I could not get a reading in this location. :bonk: It works great in the new location, no problems. :applause:

Can you point out the rotor bolt part number you used? The trailtech site doesn't list a part for the XR (or I somehow missed it). Also, some closeup pics of the rotor/bolt setup would be nice and helpful for those of us following along... (wink, wink, nudge, nudge, saiy no more).

My only concern was with the magnet on the rotor. I think they want XR owners to drill a 3/8 hole in the rotor and use a small magnet with a lock ring.

Man, I don't know about that. I didn't have to do that to my 400. Is the 250 Rotor different?

Here is what I did, I mounted the sensor pickup to caliper per directions.

1. I had to drill a tiny hole in the caliper and mount it with a supplied screw.

2. route wire up along side (zip tied) to the brake line and mount the base in the Billet protector.

3. I drilled out one of the slotted holes in the rotor a little with a Dremel tool and epoxied the magnet into place. It really fit very tight and probably did not need epoxy, but I used some anyway.

4. Set the time, date, and wheel size and i was off and running. You can do as little or as much of the setup on the unit as you need, I only use speed, Dist., hours, and maintainance durations.

I hope the pics. are clear enough that you can see everything.

I have a half vented CRF450 number plate. It fit right into place with little adjustments. The billet prtector just fits on top of my front plate top mount bolt with no problem or deflection of plate.

Great info, thanks! The pics really help to clarify things. The wife got me the computer for Xmas but didn't know which protector to get with it, so this helps a bit. :applause:

Is the Trailtech a good device to use in enduros ? I want to start riding enduros this coming year, have been reading may articles about timekeeping setups - anywhere from 400 dollar computers to cheapo "pep boys" digital clocks mounted on the bars along with a ? paper scrolling device. Any direction would be appreciated.

Man, I don't know about that. I didn't have to do that to my 400. Is the 250 Rotor different?

I just looked again and the instructions do want you to drill a 3/8 hole in the rotor between the slotted portion. If you look at the last picture that cmanno posted, they show it being just to the left of that. It doesn't make sense though. Why not just do what he did and drill out the bottom of the slot and slip the magnet in there? I just did that. It's tight. I epoxied it and installed the clip on the back of it. It is closer to the sensor this way.


You did it right, as long as it is in tight your good to go. I think it is better this way. It does not make much sense to have to drill a new hole when you can use one with a little Mod. :applause:

I just got a PM from someone who did the install using the Trail Tech Rare Earth Magnetic bolt and he said I could go ahead and share the info so here it is.

I saw your question about the magnetic rotor bolt used with the Endurance computer. on my XR400, i did this and it worked perfectly. the bolt is the one for CR125s (and most CRs built in the last 10 years.... same brakes). I had no problem mounting the sender on the caliper bracket; and the magnet sweeps very close to the end of the sender, but does not actually pass under it. since its a rare-earth magnet this poses no problem.

I will say that a couple of years ago trail tech had a problem with machining the ss brake rotor magnet bolt but they fixed it. btw, their customer service is great.

I've been meaning to post this tip along (w/ some others), but i mostly just lurk so i never got around to it. if you want to pass it on please feel free to do so.

in short: get the the CR mounting kit for XR400/250s. its much cleaner.

For the pickup - assuming that it pulses one time per revolution - you could use the pulse generator from an '85 XR350R. It is a small piece that screws into the top of speedo cable and has two wires off of it (the '85 xr had an electronic enduro computer).

This would allow you to continue to use the stock speedo cable and not worry about the wire to the pickup on the wheel, etc.


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Kev_XR
      If you own an XR250, many of these tips will apply, however, the carburator jet sizes will be different.
      It really helps others answer your questions.
      I will fix them as time allows.
      Until then the Search Feature and enter "kevin's xr400 mods".
      The results will bring up most of the links.
      Here are some frequently asked questions I have answered before.
      Which XR should I buy?
      The longer the straights, the taller the hills, the deeper the sand; the bigger XR you want. The tighter the trail, the smaller hills, firmer terrain; the smaller XR you want.
      The XR400 has a great motor that will pull you almost anywhere. You can be sloppy on a hill climb on an XR400, where you have to keep the 250 singing. The XR400 weight is most noticable when you drop it or try to stop it going down a long downhill. (Moooomentum!)
      The XR250 feels like a mtn bike compared to the XR400. My friend rode his XR250 for years before decided he needed more power. Even then you can add a 300 kit and get good power.
      If you were heading to ride fireroads in Baja, I'd tell you to get the 600/650.
      To the tight woods, get the 250.
      A lot of both, the 400.
      Dual-sporting? Go bigger for more freeway, but don't show up at the trailhead with too big of a bike.
      All of the XR's are great. Pick the one that fits your needs.
      Gordon's Mods for XR400 (Uncorking the bottle up performance)
      Gordon's Mods for XR400
      XR400 History
      The changes to the XR400 have been listed here several times. This list appears to be complete.
      In addition, HairyScary discusses how to tell if a part has been updated by the part number. Good tip!
      XR400 history
      Getting the Spark plug out
      It seems the MotionPro spark plug socket does not work on the XR400R, but works on the XR250R.
      There is an OEM tool kit being sold on eBay that seems to work.
      717448 XR400 oil change
      Here is a way to make changing the oil much cleaner.
      This tips is really handy if you have a skid plate.
      XR400 oil change
      XR400 FAQ by Paul Gortmaker
      Paul usually has very good info.
      Small bolts
      BE CAREFULL with the bolts on the oil filter cover!
      An oil covered bolt will not torque at the same rate as a dry bolt.
      The friction doesn't build up, the force simply builds until the threads strip.
      This is the reason many people strip out these bolts.
      Here is an execllent website on bolts, oil, and misc values.
      Did you ever wonder why a 8mm box wrench is half as long as a 18mm box wrench?
      It is shorter as most 8mm bolts cannot take very much torque.
      I highly recommend getting getting an 1/4" socket set.
      I bought the Craftsman set at Orchard (owned by Sears), which tends to sell them for less.
      What is the Snorkle?
      This place has a description and pic, it's easy after you pull the seat. I siliconed a piece of coarse screen (fiberglass) over mine to keep bugs and stuff out. - NORTEXT
      717439 XR400/250 Pre-Filter
      After pulling the snorkle, there is a big hole on the top of your XR400. My friend showed me this prefilter trick.
      767409 XR400 Engine Bog, Pilot jet, and the Fuel Screw
      On XR400's twisting the throttle from fully closed to wide open will cause the engine to "bog" or in some cases die.
      Engine Bog, Pilot jet, and the Fuel Screw
      831305 Valve adjustment (Am I retarded...)
      Inspect and adjust valve clearance while the engine is cold (35C, 95F).
      Valve adjustment
      389095 bigger jets (Lists stock jet sizes.)
      96-97 XR400's were jetted assuming you would remove the intake and exhaust snorkel.
      98 and later XR's were jetted assuming you would leave them in.
      bigger jets
      739907 Cheap Tool for Setting the Fork Oil Height
      There are some really nice tools out there for doing this job.
      This tool costs $4.49 at Kragen.
      Cheap Tool
      392932 high altitude jetting
      There are two big factors for jetting, elevation and temperature.
      high altitude jetting
      Allen screws for the XR400 carb
      This lists the screws you need to convert the XR400 carb to use allen screws.
      Allen screws
      Screws for the brake and clutch after removing the stock handguards
      TBD - There is a post with the shorter screw part numbers for after the stock handguards are removed. Use search.
      Very quick engine hop up
      This is a very minimal change that should take less than an hour.
      Most of that time is removing the float bowl (3 screws).
      If you decide to do the full "Gordon's Mods" later, you will need to replace the jets again.
      o Pull the intake snorkle.
      o Add a UniFilter.
      o Pilot jet to 55, main jet to 155. (Assuming sea level and moderate air temps.)
      Source: Motocross Action magazine.
      Quick engine hop up
      Gordon's mods
      Baja Designs Baja Baffle with 96' spark arrestor.
      Pull the intake snorkle, UniFilter, 60 pilot jet, 162 main jet.
      (Depending on altitude and temp.)
      What to add to a new XR400 or XR250?
      Acerbis wrap around style handguards (saves levers and bars as they don't dig in)
      Baja Designs skid plate (Made by Utah Sports Cycle)
      Acerbis fork/disc protector
      Grease headset and rear linkage
      Spend you money on the suspension, not a pipe!
      First get some stiffer fork springs (96-97, 98-99 years)
      Fork revalve (cost: 2 qts of oil & time)
      Shock revalve (cost: oil, nitrogen, shim stack, friend who knows shocks)
      Jetting for Altitude (XR400)
      Assuming at sea level and 68 degrees, you would use a 60 pilot and 162 main.
      At 5000 feet and 68 degrees.
      Jettting correction:
      5000 feet and 68 degrees.
      Main 0.96 * 162 = 155 -> 155 main
      Pilot 0.92 * 60 = 50.6 -> 55 pilot
      Due to your elevation, you have less air and less fuel.
      Your bike will not behave the same as a bike at sealevel.
      First, check the fuel screw. If it does not affect the idle speed, you have the wrong one.
      kevin's xr400 mods
    • By Child
      Can we make a sticky thread of pictures? I've done search for pics but I want to see all sorts of bikes just for ideas on stuff without having to go through tons of threads. Not trying to sound whiny or anything, but I think it would be nice to do what they do in the CRF250X forums with a sticky thread of just pics, no comments or anything. Think we can get one of those rolling here?
    • By kawamatt2
      Ok guys, add one more to the list of riders attempting the USD fork swap to an XR frame. Quite a bit of research here on TT and ebay hunting brought me a pretty good deal on a set of forks, triples, and stem from a 00' CR 250.
      There are a few different options for adapting CR style forks to an XR. Bushings for upper and lower CR triples can be made to allow use of the stock XR stem. Specialty bearings can also be purchased to allow use of the stock CR stem in the XR neck. And finally what seems to be the most common; modification of the stock CR stem to allow use of XR sized bearings.
      I obviously chose to pursue the third option for a few reasons, the most prominent of which is serviceability. I wanted to keep as many wear items at possible as stock parts. This has two advantages; availability and price of replacement parts. $45 dollar a pop "specialty" thin section tapered bearings don't sound too appealing especially when being used on a 12 year old dirtbike.
      So now we can get to the meat of the issue; modification of the CR stem. I should begin by saying that i am NOT a draftsman. I've taken a few classes on engineering measurements but am far from an expert and probably only mildly proficient reverse modeling components. With that said, the first order of business was comparing an XR stem and bearings to a CR stem and bearings. Shown below.

      A little closer look at the XR setup.

      And the CR setup.

      Now to get out the calipers and model up the stock CR piece. I used a cheaper set of calipers and suspect their tolerance is +/- .01mm. Good enough for gov'ment work though! All dimensions in millimeters.

      Now to modify the CR stem to work with the XR bearings while remaining compatible with CR triple trees. There are a few things to say about why i did some things the way i did but most of the thoughts are included in the notes section of the drawing.

      With a resized stem we run into the problem of mounting the top triple clamp. The hole is too large for the stem. An insert bushing must be made to resize the hole in the clamp.

      Finally what the stem and bushing look like together.

      Last one. The difference in how the top triple clamp is located on the stem. The CR is equipped with a chamfer that provides a stop for the tree while the XR's triple appears to be limited only by the threads for the castle nut.

      So... would like to hear your opinions on the execution of the stem modification and bushing. I think having these drawings will make it simpler to have the modifications performed as opposed to asking the machinist to completely reverse engineer the part him/herself.
      And a final query: Anyone know the thread callout for the two threaded portion of a stock XR steering stem? My drawings show the outside diameter of the threaded portions and i have a cheap plastic pitch gauge that tells me a pitch of 1.0 but i am looking for something more concrete than what i have.
      Thanks for your thoughts and opinions.
    • By ATJ_Number_1
      I'm on strike 2 here but thankfully this isn't baseball.
      The reasoning and my history. If you haven't figured it out yet I've done a crap load of work on these motors over the last 7 years but they have had 4 wheels around them. In the EX world there are a lot of carburetor options and although many are great there's a cheap alternative that runs 95% as hard as the high dollar options, some even liking it better then aftermarket. When I joined up here in the 2 wheel club I was shocked that the only accepted option was $400 for a 36mm Mikuni Pumper that isn't any bigger then stock! That cheap alternative for the EX is an 04-05 trx450r carb. It's 42mm round slide Kiehin piston-valve with accelerator pump and a mildly modded 400 loves it with a surprisingly strong bottom end yet. Yes I said 42mm!
      So as I build my XR4 I already know that I'd be shooting myself in the foot if I settled on a 36mm carb because I like bigger bores and cams and this motor likes bigger carbs. Makes sense, it is 400cc. Don't get me wrong though, the Mikuni is a real nice pumper for a stock bike and would seem fine on a well modded machine too but this 4 stroke is like every other one in the world in regards to when you go big inside, you want to go bigger outside or you're missing out.
      Whether the info is appreciated or scoffed at I'll post up my findings one by one as I try to find viable alternatives. When I say viable I mean still being able to use the stock environment and not needing a ton of work. I'm sure collectively this is not a new idea to search for such a beast but I enjoy a good project and I like cheap alternatives when they produce results.
      Currently the "test bike" is a 2000 Xr400r, snorkel removed, Uni filter, stock engine, stock headpipe and a 4" supertrapp slip-on with 11 discs.
    • By XL100allnightlong
      Just wondering if there is any tricks to polishing the stock headers on an 02 xr 400 to bring back the original copper color? If not ceramic coating them sounds like an option?