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clutch springs...

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have any of u changed just the clutch springs alone in a stock clutch? i was reading about the PC clutch springs in transworld and they rated them 10 and said that the by changing just the springs makes a huge difference...

also how easy is instalation ive never really worked on a clutch bymyself..do u just take off the 5 bolts and pop the old out and in with the new? thanks

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I am going to get clutch springs for a couple of reasons. The clutch pull will be buttery, and the aftermarket springs will not start to fade under heavy use (this is the advantage btw).

As to replacing them it is cake. Pull the clutch cover and they are right there. Do them one at a time making sure not to over torque (strip the bolt).

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WMR makes some out of stainless wire that heat doesn't effect until it gets to some ungodly amount, I have them in my bikes and they work great.

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I have a new set of moose racing clutch springs, but I have yet to try them. I am going to put them on my new woods bike, but it is a work in progress.

Anyway, changing the springs is REALLY easy. However, do not overtighten the bolts dude or they will snap like twigs. I would get a decent inch-pound torque wrench and do it to factory spec just to be safe.

Let us know how it goes. A good investment for sure !

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Storm ...what else do you use a torque wrench on? the bike man the bike lol oil drain plug ?

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goodtogo: well, I have been turning wrenches on dirtbikes since the early 90's and after breaking numorous "Important" bolts off, both inside the motor and outside, I decided maybe there is a reason why the manual gives torque specs.

Another example: Yesterday I installed a TrailTech +9oz flywheel on one of my KX's and the instructions said 36 ft. lbs for the main bolt ... Do you think I should have guessed at how tight I got it or maybe just done what the professionals say ?

... not a tough decision for me really ... I have the tools so why not use them :applause:

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If you are on a budget you can try using some washers to preload the springs. The washers need to have the same ID and OD as the spring coils. I use stiffer springs and washers...

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goodtogo: well, I have been turning wrenches on dirtbikes since the early 90's and after breaking numorous "Important" bolts off, both inside the motor and outside, I decided maybe there is a reason why the manual gives torque specs.

Another example: Yesterday I installed a TrailTech +9oz flywheel on one of my KX's and the instructions said 36 ft. lbs for the main bolt ... Do you think I should have guessed at how tight I got it or maybe just done what the professionals say ?

... not a tough decision for me really ... I have the tools so why not use them :bonk:

I was turning wrenches on bike's {pedal power} for 7+ years ...& over torqued a few myself...so I will be looking for a torque wrench myself...I use craftsmen tools...any sugestions ...thanks .... :applause: Oh how is the woods bike coming along? cant wait to see some pics

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goodtogo: I use mostly craftsman as well. My foot-pound torque wrench is from there and it works pretty well. My inch-pound wrench was cheap and I got it from Harbour Freight ... I do not use it a lot, but it does the job. The woods bike is getting there ... I worked on it for about 8 hours the other day and have the flywheel-weight, the kickstand, frame guards (needed trimmed), and the flatland rad braces done. Loads more to do though !

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Ok ...I was looking at craftsman and they have a good selection...wow 8hrs damn lucky you .... :applause:

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i have had the barnett and pc both in and the pc is by far the only way to go,allthough you may think you clutch will be easier to but thats not so the pc spring will make it a little stiffer while the barnett is about the same as stock and perform like stock also...with barnett i couldnt tell a difference but with the pc instant hookup you just have to try to believe..

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