How much noise is excessive on a 450?

My brother just got a YZ450 and compared to my DRZ400 the top end engine noise is rediculous. My DRZ400 had a slight tick in it that I was concerned about, but after riding several hours in the woods with my Bro. it's not an issue.

How much noise is to much coming from the top end? I know that the DRZ400 has had some issues with the ACCT, what about the YZ450? Are there cam issues with the bike I need to keep an eye on? I've never been around a 450, so I don't really know what to expect. Should I check the ACCT and chain? Or should I take it to the shop?

I know my bike makes a helluva lot of noise. If you put your ear down to engine level its really scary. It runs fine though.

Is it new or used?

I recently just bought an 05 YZ450 and just converted from the 2 stroke. I was/ a, kinda concerned about all of the valvetrain/ engine noise too. On a V8 car engine, you would think the timing cahin was slapping if it ws making that kinda noise.

So, I was wondering the same thing.

Mine makes a lot of noise and has since new..

It's a used '03 that was a dirt bike converted to SM and back to dirt. The fellow said he just had the top end rebuilt about 6 months ago and only had 1 race on the new rings and such. Compare to my DRZ400 this thing sounds like the Texas chainsaw massacre. If you all have a lot of noise too, I'm wondering if it's just the reason why they call 'em thumpers? If anyone has any input drop it in, I'd hate to blow money we don't have getting the thing looked at if it's a normal occurrence.

You might check the cam chain tensioner, if it is sprung all the way out not putting tension on the chain, its time for a timing chain. Ive had 2)YZ426's 3)CRF450's and even one of the Orange ones, they are all noisey, its hard to say what is excessive without actually hearing it.

You're all forgetting one thing. The DR is a completely different engine design from a YZ or WR. The DR is a traditional overhead cam engine with actuator arms over the valves. The YZ/WR is a race-bred, 5-valve, shim-over-bucket DOHC design that is much more complex and noisier when operating. You could no more compare their sounds as you could their performance. In any case, it's always a good idea to have a used bike checked out before buying. Cheap insurance considering what an engine failure on a YZ or WR can cost to fix. :applause:

a drz 400 is not a dr.its dual over head cam shim under bucket.they are on par in performance with yz/wr400.which is the bike it was designed to compete with in 2000 when it came out.

Yamaha 450's seem to make the most valve train noise for sure(although they are still reliable)

a drz 400 is not a dr.
You are correct. My bad, but the Suzuki DRZ is a 4-valve design compared with the Yamaha YZ/WR 5-valve setup. More valves make for more noise. :applause:
You are correct. My bad, but the Suzuki DRZ is a 4-valve design compared with the Yamaha YZ/WR 5-valve setup. More valves make for more noise. :applause:
not necessarily, the intake valves don't move as much.......

So bottom line is I should get it checked out, right?

not necessarily, the intake valves don't move as much.......

What has that got to do with anything? You still have five cam lobes vs four. Five contact points vs four. Five valve movements vs four. Five shim adjustments vs four. And the chance for five areas to be out of spec and therefore noisier vs four. Valve travel is not the major factor in the noise, it's the interaction between the valvetrain contact surfaces along with cam profiles (ramp speeds opening and closing) and tolerances created by wear. Another factor is the casting of the head can increase mechanical noise. Open cavities can cause echoes that amplify engine noises making them sound more ominous than they really are. The Yamaha's open head design and tall, hollow valve cover contribute greatly in this area. :applause:

So bottom line is I should get it checked out, right?

Considering this is a used motorcycle and the amount of damage and expense a stuck/broken valve could do, I would have it checked. Not necessarily a teardown, but at least checked against a similar bike. At a minimum I would check the valve clearances to see if they are in spec. Also, a worn cam chain can produce more noise. On a Yamaha, cam chain wear is critical since the drive gear on the crankshaft is not replaceable. Once it's worn you'll need a new crank.

Mine is noisy too--sounds like a sewing machine;but that is the way it has been since it was new.

If you think the YZ is noisy then you should listen to a KTM. I had a SX450 which was a good bike, but it was considerably louder than the 05 YZ I currently have.

Our YZ426 sounds like what you're describing too. It kind of goes chug chug clink clink, if you know what I mean. It had engine work done too, and it's in good shape. It sounds vaguely like a sewing machine, that's just how it is, DOHC, 5 valves.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Samx22x
      Alright so I’m new to the site so maybe this question has already been asked. I have a 2002 Yz426f and I want a new exhaust, it has the stock header and silencer and sounds amazing but I’d like a little more from it, I know I want the fmf power bomb header and am kind of undecided on the silencer, I see on fmf’s website that their silencer will add low end and slightly take from top end and the other way around but I’m looking for increases throughout rpm range. I do a lot of trail, hill climbs, jumps, and wheelies so kind of need good performance everywhere in the rpms. My question is what silencer I should get and the jetting I should get for the carb. Thanks
    • By Zack Ailing
      hey guys just picked up a new project bike. Its a 2008 Yz450f with a big bore kit and a stroker crank. The total cc of the engine is now 499. It runs on race gas and will be an absolute monster when shes ready to rip. I will continue to make more videos on the bike so stay tuned Link to the video: 
    • By High On Octane
      2005 YZ450F, Athena Big Bore, Power Bomb, Q4.
      Ok.  Last fall after a decently hot day at the track, I noticed coolant leaking from the weep hole on my water pump after pulling into the pits.  Ordered an Athena re-seal kit, put it all back together and didn't really get a chance to ride it.  3 weeks ago, went out to the track, and after about 20 laps, it started leaking again.  Kept filling it with water to get thru the day, never ran anywhere close to dry or empty, jut a cup or 2 low.  Ordered a Hot Rods re-seal kit with bearing and also ordered a new w/p shaft.  Did it all again and got it back together, ran it, and as soon as it got to temp, it was leaking out of the weep hole again.
      So, what the heck am I missing?  I'm totally stumped on this one.  Is something wrong with my case cover?  Do I need to replace the w/p itself?  I'm feeling like I should've just ponied up for the Boysen in the first place, and now it's biting me in the butt.  Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
    • By Awheeler25u
      Alright guys, my 04 YZ450f runs fine minus some slight backfires when decelerating (need to adjust fuel screw). The other day when I was done checking my valve clearances I changed the oil and filter and put the bike back on the stand, kicked it a few times without the ignition coil in to get some oil flowing got off and noticed a little drip spot on the ground, it was no bigger than a dime so I thought nothing of it. Started the bike with no issues took it for a quick 10-15 min ride, came back to the garage to find out my whole case was soaked with oil and it started pooling in the low spots on the clutch basket side. I cleaned all the oil off and took it out again for 5 mins to try and see where it was coming from, here are my three possible places but nothing directly leads me to believe it’s any of the three either.
      1. Decompression plug area
      2.  Valve cover gasket leak (not really sure because the amount of oil leaking Looks to be a large amount
      3. Oil tank (bad weld or cracked weld somewhere
      what are you guys thinking?
    • By bofar
      Hey guys. I could really use your help diagnosing an issue that came up riding today. Bike is a 2013 YZ450F. Well maintained and haven't had any issues until now. Both the oil and coolant are new and levels are to spec. 
      After riding for about an hour in the sand dunes, I noticed a grinding going on on the right side of the bottom end (from what I could tell). When I looked to see what was going on my kickstarter was vibrating and grinding really loud. This was a different sound than if you engaged the kickstarter while running. It sounded less "clanky" and more "vibrating/grinding" if that makes sense. Grabbing the kickstarter and moving it didn't help the issue.
      When I noticed it, I shut the bike off and gave it a second. Being a few miles deep into the dunes, I had to get it out of there so I started it back up and it seemed fine- no grinding. I headed back to the car and after a few minutes, it came back so I shut it off again, started it back up and nothing. That process happened one or two more times before I made it back to the truck. Seemed to run fine otherwise. 
      Once I got it back to the truck I started it up and tried to pay more attention to what was going on but it wasn't doing it. I did seem to have more of a metal on metal noise coming from the motor. I started and stopped the bike a few times and after the motor stopped there was a distinct metal clank/grinding noise that happened right after the motor shut of for maybe half a second. This doesn't happen every time. 
      I tried doing some research and have seen things that make me think it could be the spring that connects to the kickstarter, or the kickstarter stopper plate- but really I have no idea.
      Seems strange that the issue is off and on.
      Thanks for the help!