DRZ oil dump

[Spike5243]

Please help! My 2002 Suzuki DRZ400S has just dumped all its oil out of the left hand side of the bottom of the motor. ??

A chap did an article on a steel aftermarket engine output sprocket shaft bearing (part number? source?) as the original part is not man enough for off-road work. I though that I would get by without it as I only ride the DRZS on road (my YZ is for racing) but it appears I was wrong.

What else could be the problem?

How much work is it likely to be and worse still how much is it likely to cost?

Do I need to do a full engine strip and split the gear cases and do I need any special tools?

This bike is my main commuter into work so without it I am stuck - please help as any advice would be welcome.

This happened this lunchtime and I am pig sick about it.

Cheers.

[Learn2turn]

IT SOUNDS LIKE A COUNTERSHAFT NON-LOCTITED NUT/SPLINE.

Do a search in this forum and you'll see what has happened to many others and likely you now.

[smokey28723]

Look at the countershaft nut, and then look at how big of a hole it put in the case. Maybe it is something you can JB Weld for a while.

[Erik Marquez]

As suggested, check the counter shaft nut for tightness.

The spacer behind that suggested gear does just fine, on or off road. You simply have to maintain the bike. Mud, grass, ect ect can and will get stuffed up behind the sprocket, if you leave it there, it will cause the spacer to rust, and the debris will tear up the seal.

If it's leaking from the CS You can plan on replacing the seal, I'd also replace the bushing, and the o-ring that goes with it.. All told,, under $30 in parts.

If the CS nut was loose, you have some more considerations,, When it is run loose, it can cause a problem with the second gear bushing on that same CS. When you tightened it down after replacing the seal,, check for free rotation of the countershaft.. If it drags, or you feel and grinding,, you have a problem.

Read the FAQ at the top of the page, it will explain how to keep the countershaft nut from coming loose.

[Spike5243]

Thanks for your help Guys, let's hope that it is a damaged CS output seal failure rather than a wayward CS sprocket nut!

Surely the bendable lock washer is there to lock the sprocket nut, negating the need to use loctite, or am I missing something?

[Neil Claydon]

Thanks for your help Guys, let's hope that it is a damaged CS output seal failure rather than a wayward CS sprocket nut!

Surely the bendable lock washer is there to lock the sprocket nut, negating the need to use loctite, or am I missing something?

The need for red locktite is well documented, it should not be necessary, but IT IS.

If you get stuck for parts, I have a spare seal and spacer (used), with the "O" ring that you can have.

I'm in Southend on Sea.

Neil.

?

[Spike5243]

Guys, you were right!

I did some investigating last night and found that the root of the problem was that the sprocket tab washer had given up the ghost which allowed the sprocket to come loose, reducing pressure on the layshaft spacer which allowed the oil to come out. I thing that I am going to need an impact driver to remove the two screws that hold the seal retainer in though (one was fitted, I just couldn't see it for all the oily clag that had come off the chain) as they are in tight and threatening to round off.

Now I have a quandry...the spacer (as far as I can see) is not corroded (I don't ride the DRZ off-road, that is what the YZ is for) so I am not sure what damage has been done to the seal. Could it be that it was just the looseness that caused the leak or has it being loose damaged the seal? I am almost tempted to nail it all back together, carry out a leak check and press on - although it would be really expensive if I got it wrong. Or whether I should change everything as a precaution.

In response to the point: "If the CS nut was loose, you have some more considerations, When it is run loose, it can cause a problem with the second gear bushing on that same CS. When you tightened it down after replacing the seal, check for free rotation of the countershaft. If it drags, or you feel and grinding, you have a problem." I don't have any grinding, which is good but what other damage could I possibly have done? I feel a trip to Suzuki for some spare parts coming on (and some liberal use of Loctite!)!

Any further advice would be welcome.

Cheers!

[kawidual]

Had the same thing happen to me at about 10k miles. Let the nut get loose and it

puked all the oil on the street. Glad I didn't crash. Replace about 3 or 4 parts.

www.ronayers.com has a good microfiche you can look at.

Try a search for CS replacement, etc. Bronco has a post with the parts list.

Its pretty straight forward once you look at he fiche what you need to replace.

Its not a hard job, one or 2 beers tops. Mine had no internal damage.

I needed an impact driver for the spacer philips screws too, tight bastards.

[Spike5243]

I went to my local Suzuki dealer and ordered all the parts anyway (£48 including £28 sprocket) as I needed the bike to commute to work this week. Unfortunately they can't get the bits for about 5 days so this weekend I thought that I would clean the old bits up and see whether it would hold for the time being. On reassembly I found that I couldn't get the sprocket nut (the only bit I didn't order) to torque and on investigation found that the threads had been stripped. Thankfully the thread on the shaft seems OK (cos that would require a g'box strip) so now I am going to have to order the nut too (with another delay I guess).