Jump to content

Primary nut fix -- with pictures

Recommended Posts

MOD EDIT NOTE:
There are some issues still with pictures that were in a users garage, and linked in a post, like those found below in the OP's article..

For this thread,I provided a link to those pictures. This is a TEMP fix only. Once the archive is taken down, this temp fix will not work. I'll work on something better later.
But the real fix is behind scenes and is something that is on the list of the admins to get done.

Thanks

E.Marquez---- 15 FEB 2012

---------------------------------------------------------------
MOD EDIT #2 Pictures have been re uploaded to the current server. This should fix things till we migrate to a new How To Article format......
E.Marquez----15 FEB 2012
---------------------------------------------------
Here are some pictures of the primary nut fix. Image test ignore

The resident TT DRZ gurus recommend checking the tightness of the primary nut. This nut has come loose and caused engine damage (or been found loose before causing damage) on every model year DRZ (2006 models have yet to report in numbers.) See poll: http://www.thumperta...55&parentpage=5

Drain oil and coolant. Remove right side engine case. The right side cover gasket will most likely need to be replaced. Mine did.


The primary nut has a left-handed thread, so it has to be turned to the RIGHT to be loosened. Here's the location of the primary nut:

12237.jpg
12235.jpg


Primary nut removed:
You do NOT need to remove the clutch basket (as I did for other reasons) to tighten the primary nut.
12233.jpg

Clean nut and threads of all oil. Apply red locktite to crankshaft threads:
12232.jpg

To tighten the primary nut either:

(1) use an impact gun (which is not recommended, but some of us did it that way anyway), or

MOD EDIT E.Marquez -----12 Aug 2013: Correct wrong TQ value

 

(2) Torque it to 110 Nm (79.5 ftlb) (this is the proper way). To hold the crankshaft, remove the left side case, and use a 26 mm deep socket (my local AutoZone carries one) or offset wrench to hold the other side. A 1 1/16" socket works as well. Here's a pic of the offset wrench made by 10guy:


Don't forget the red locktite.

Thanks to AZVMAX and the TT DRZ guys for helping me do this fix.

12239.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. Mine's a '01.

(It wasn't loose, but I didn't want to mention that so as not to discourage anyone from doing the fix! Shhhhhh..... :applause: )

But I'm real glad I checked it. Before I did, I felt as if I was playing Russian Roulette every time I rode.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My impact wrench instructions say not to use it to properly torque a nut, but it did come in handy rattling the nut loose so I could re-torque with a Craftsman torque wrench after application of red loctite. I used the rag stuff method and it worked fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My impact wrench instructions say not to use it to properly torque a nut...

I hear ya! But some of the guys have used a rattle gun, so I thought I'd mention that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW, great write-up.

Mine E is a 2001 and the primary nut was NOT loose. I'll do the 2006 SM soon enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent job on the walk-through and photos. I'm bookmarking this thread to repost when anyone new asks about the Primary Nut fix in the future.

:applause:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the great post. The only thing I would suggest is to mention whether the threads are right or left-hand thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The only thing I would suggest is to mention whether the threads are right or left-hand thread.

Oh, right! This should definately be mentioned. I had read it in some of the posts and still forgot it! Couldn't figure out why the nut wasn't coming loose with an impact gun until I remembered! :applause:

If there's anything else I forgot, let me know and I'll put it in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Loc-tite cleaning, use a solvent, like laquer thinner or acitone, what even but make sure you have bare metal. Any oil will render loc-tite useless.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Here are some pictures of the primary nut fix.

The resident TT DRZ gurus recommend checking the tightness of the primary nut. This nut has come loose and caused engine damage (or been found loose before causing damage) on every model year DRZ (2006 models have yet to report in numbers.) See poll: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318555&parentpage=5

Drain oil and coolant. Remove right side engine case. The right side cover gasket will most likely need to be replaced. Mine did.

garage.php?do=viewattachment&attachmentid=12238

The primary nut has a left-handed thread, so it has to be turned to the RIGHT to be loosened. Here's the location of the primary nut:

garage.php?do=viewattachment&attachmentid=12237

garage.php?do=viewattachment&attachmentid=12235

Primary nut removed:

garage.php?do=viewattachment&attachmentid=12233

You do NOT need to remove the clutch basket (as I did for other reasons) to tighten the primary nut.

Clean nut and threads of all oil. Apply red locktite to crankshaft threads:

garage.php?do=viewattachment&attachmentid=12232

To tighten the primary nut either:

(1) use an impact gun, or

(2) Torque it to 101.5 ft-lbs. Remove the left side case, and use a 26 mm deep socket (my local AutoZone carries one) or offset wrench to hold the other side. A 1 1/16" socket works as well. Here's a pic of the offset wrench made by 10guy:

garage.php?do=viewattachment&attachmentid=12239

Don't forget the red locktite.

Thanks to AZVMAX and the TT DRZ guys for helping me do this fix.

great job, thanks :applause::bonk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Loc-tite cleaning, use a solvent, like laquer thinner or acitone, what even but make sure you have bare metal. Any oil will render loc-tite useless.

That is incorrect,oil will not render loctite useless,I am a industrial mechanic and use 242 loctite everday on machinary that requires it on all bolts,with a little oil as a wet application. Red loctite is a stronger grade it comes in 262 and 272,and 277. Not nessacery to clean completly,a little oil wont hurt,but just a little. And good luck getting that nut off if u ever need to. :applause: But a good idea to keep nut from coming loose.

Nice write up.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

This is next on my list of Drz to-do's and I have a question. Your post says that you don't need to remove the basket to tighten the primary nut. I'm curious if you can get a socket on the nut as the basket looks to close in the pictures. Also is there any other way of tighteneing it without removing the opposite side engine cover to hold the nut Maybe putting it in gear and holding the brake? Not sure how acceptable of a practice that is or it may cause more damage internally? :applause:

Thanks in advance

Frank

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I'm curious if you can get a socket on the nut as the basket looks to close in the pictures. Also is there any other way of tighteneing it without removing the opposite side engine cover to hold the nut Maybe putting it in gear and holding the brake? Not sure how acceptable of a practice that is or it may cause more damage internally?

Well, I'm the LAST person whose advice I'd ask on anything other than scratching up the plastic real good. I hope others chime in on this, but I can tell you the little I think I know.

A socket will fit on the primary nut with the clutch basket in place. It's close, but there's enough room. However, I'm not sure an impact socket will fit since they have heavier walls than regular sockets.

Others have used rags in the gears or used the brake to keep the gears from moving. but good mechanics will just cringe at the rag stuffing approach.

When I did it, I didn't realize the left side cover had to come off to hold the gear on the other side. There's a 17mm bolt accessible through the plug on the left crankcase cover which turns the crankshaft, but that does not work to hold the crankshaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×