I have a BRP with a Baja Designs kit on it. The stator is stock and I was wondering if I put a standard 55/60 headlight in it would it cause any problems? Right now it has a 35/35 light in it.


I have read several times that the 35w is the brightest you can run with the stock stator, and still have the battery hold a charge. You can find a lot of information on how to rewind your stator, or buy a new one. I am going to rewind both mine. Hope this helps. Steven.


I'm not sure what the 55/60W will do, but at the very least it will be dim, at worst it will discharge your battery.

I did the Buell Lightning dually 55W setup on my 650R. I rewound my own stator using 16awg, 32 turns per pole, total 320 turns (remove the stock lighting coil, 4 poles). I had to upgrade my wiring a bit too for the higher current, but it works great. Here is some information...

Here are some pics of my bike...

This setup give AWESOME lighting capability, and nobody flashes me on the street.

I keep hearing about rewiring stators. Is it really that easy to do yourself, or would I be better off buying one? I prefer to do things myself, but I am not too electrically inclined. If there is a page or a thread that has very detailed instructions could someone please help me find it.



Here is the basic page;

He did his a little bit different back then as he simply added on to the stock coil. This works, but not as good as making a new coil (resistance gets to high otherwise). Simply remove the stock coil altogether, then you have 10 poles to wind on. Using 18awg magnet wire, wrap 32 turns per pole, alternating the direction each pole, for all 10 poles. This gives 320 turns total, 300-330 turns total for ANY wind is the sweet spot for high induced voltage and low resistance. The 18 awg wind will give you a solid 125W+ (no one really knows for sure as output varies with RPM), however this wind will drive a 55-75W bulb to full brightness right off idle and still charge a dual sport kit battery. When you are done winding simply solder your new wires from each end of the coil to the 2 wires that the stock coil connected to. When complete, coat it all up with Devcon (or similar) epoxy, 200F operating temperature and water resistant, 5 min drying time. This stuff can be found at Lowe's, WalMart and Auto parts stores...

For a bid dog rewind for 100W+ lighting, you need to wind with 16awg magnet wire. Again 32 turns/pole, 10 poles, 320 total turns. This puts you in the 200W range, it drives my dual 55W bulbs (110W) to full brightness right off idle and still charges my battery.

The downside to this wind? The stock Baja Designs regulator/rectifier will only handle ~150W, so you will have to have your headlight run all the time to help burn off some of that power. Furthermore, a 100W+ headlight will pull a good 10A or more. This is getting to the max that the stock wiring can handle.

I replaced the stock wiring from the stator up to the regulator with heavier 14awg (could have used 16) wire. I just slit the rubber grommet that comes out of the cases between the two holes that the stock wires went through. My bigger wires stuffed through, tightly, but it went. Then I wired 14awg directly to the headlight, and bypassed the Baja Designs switchgear and wiring. This way the headlight runs off regulated AC voltage straight from the stator ->regulator->. What the bulb(s) don't use, goes through the rectifier and battery, charging the battery and becomes available for many DC accessories. Basically, the Baja DSK was not disturbed in anyway. If you don't have a Baja kit then, it's even easier.

If you have to have your lights turn off. You can buy a Ricky Stator heavy duty regulator (this is a regulator only, NOT the 150W reg/rec that Ricky and Baja D sells), this puppy can handle ~225W. If you need DC voltage, buy a cheap "bridge rectifier," ~15A+ capacity at any electronics place, Digi Key, Mouser, maybe Radio Shack. Here, the regulator can handle the extra juice if you need to turn off your headlight, and with the rectifier you can still charge a battery. However, it's unknown if the battery can handle ALL that charge coming in. Still, better to keep the headlights on when the bike is running.

All the purchased stator's or rewound stators use a dual coil setup. This is BS and just makes it more difficult. *Most* people don't need the big 200-250W single coil (obtained by wiring the two separate coils together in parallel), and as you see from the above, too much power can be a problem. Then you are stuck using 2 coils separately, or just one and wasting the other. Wind it yourself, it's cheaper, and an excellent learning experience. If you screw up, simply yank the windings off and start over, no harm done. Just stay away from the 2 stock ignition coils. Good luck.

Nice post Snaggle, but I'm a little confused. Are you suggesting to utilize the stock windings or rermoving and replacing them (rewinding all the coils and using the same number of coils that Honda used for the ignition)?

"He did his a little bit different back then as he simply added on to the stock coil. This works, but not as good as making a new coil (resistance gets to high otherwise). Simply remove the stock coil altogether, then you have 10 poles to wind on."

"Just stay away from the 2 stock ignition coils. Good luck."


I would like to run an 80 watt (or so) headlight, I don't have a battery. Thanks for the tip on the Ricky Stator regulator.

Sorry for any confusion. For a large single coil wind, definitely remove the stock lighting coil (4 poles worth on the US bikes). This leaves you with 10 poles to wind your new coil on. Why remove the stock coil? Because adding to it gives "diminishing returns." Adding to the stock coil gives more resistance, which almost negates the added output of more windings. Rewinding all 10 poles with 18awg (320 total turns) will give much less resistance, thus allowing much higher output. It is more efficient.

You can keep the stock lighting coil as is and then add 18awg to the remaining 6 poles and keep them as *separate* coils. With a dual sport kit you could use the stock coil to run the DC stuff by feeding it though the regulator/recifier. Then with another regulator, you can use the new coil to drive a headlight. However, this just gets complicated and requires an additional regulator. It's SO much easier to have a single large wind.

Thanks Snaggle,

I think I'll go with the single large wind, heavier regulator, and a 60 or 80W PIAA H3 (I think) bulb along with the glass headlight lens. Should be enough for jeep trails and mild singletracks after dark. :thumbsup:

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