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Just picked up a new 05 450x..Now What?

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I am stoked to go out this weekend, I been on the sidelines for almost 2 years with 3 shoulder surgeries which forced my to sell my crf450R. Now that I picked up this new bike, some of the gatherings I read on this message board is the JD jet kit, extra 200cc of oil. Anything else I should do to it? Any recommendations on break in? :thumbsup::bonk:

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I just did a google search on unibikers and came up with very little.. Where do I buy those? :thumbsup:

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Now just load the bike in the back of the truck, drive back to the dealer and trade it in on a CRF450R. After that you'll be set. :thumbsup:

Just kidding. I always tear my bike down to just the frame and motor and grease everything with Bel-Ray waterproof grease. Burned and kelstr recommend tearing the top end down and cleaning out the cylinder, replacing pistons rings and putting ot back together dry.

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Burned and kelstr recommend tearing the top end down and cleaning out the cylinder, replacing pistons rings and putting ot back together dry.

On a brand new bike? :thumbsup:! I'd never do that.

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On a brand new bike? :thumbsup:! I'd never do that.

Yes on a brand new bike. The factory oils the living crap out of the cylinder, piston and rings, but it a well known fact that oil in the cylinder will not allow the rings to seat properly and will result in oil consumption and less power. Most people don't worry about it and just build dry when it's time to do the top end, and then there are those that refuse to accept facts and still build the thing wet, resulting in a motor that smokes, has less power and consumes oil.

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Congrats on the new ride!

1) I suggest before you even ride it clean both brake rotors with brake cleaner to avoid contaminating the brake pads with the the grease and oil that comes on the rotors. When I got my 450X both rotors had this junk on them. My brakes work excellent!

2) put a charge on the battery and check to see the terminals are tight. I have seen numerous posts that say this bike has a tendency for the battery terminal screws to work loose.

3) the teeth on the brake pedal will punch a hole in the clutch cover if you drop it. I did this on mine, and you will find many posts on TT about this. To minimize the chance of this happening, file off the teeth on the brake pedal closest to the cover. When you look at the pedal it will be obvious what to do. 10 minute job to this. Note this clutch cover is Magnesium and very thin.

these are just some free things to do to minimize problems. There are many other xlnt posts regarding upgrades. Check out Krannies posts, I think he is very up to speed on the 450X and good mods that are worth it.

Happy trails and keep the rubber side down! :thumbsup:

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What XRguy said about the pedal! If you can swing a new slip on the E-2 with the JD jet kit, air box mods make the bike really perform. Get a spare air filter and change it every ride if it dusty. You'll never have a valve problem if you keep the filter clean. Enjoy!!

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You can add fuel injection for $5, all you need is a syringe and a quick hand. I know this for a fact.

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I am stoked to go out this weekend, I been on the sidelines for almost 2 years with 3 shoulder surgeries which forced my to sell my crf450R. Now that I picked up this new bike, some of the gatherings I read on this message board is the JD jet kit, extra 200cc of oil. Anything else I should do to it? Any recommendations on break in? :thumbsup::bonk:

This is what I have done so far. Definatly get the Rad guards I went with flatland and love them. You can't beat the price either. I got them at www.crfsonly.com

ITEM / MANUFACTURE / PRICE

Radiator Guards / Flatland / $74.95

Skid Plate / Flatland / $74.95

Hand Guards / Cycra / $90.20

Enduro Computer (EC) / Trail Tech / $74.95

EC Protective Case / Trail Tech / $49.95

Smog Block Off / White Brothers / $23.70

Jet Kit / James Dean / $64.80

Odometer Spacer / Flatland / $23.70

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Krannie's bike is set up nice...

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CRF450X - HOLLISTER HILLS , CA. 500 – 1500’ 50 – 68 Deg.

JETTING: 172 MAIN / 45 PILOT/ 2.0 AIR/FUEL / STOCK NEEDLE # 5 CLIP POS.

ALL HRC MODS “THE WRENCH” (copy at all Honda dealers)

2005 CRF450R MUFFLER With PRO MOTO END CAP – SPARKY ONLY

TWIN AIR COMPLETE AIR FILTER “KIT”

APPLIED SMOG REMOVAL KIT

SCOTT EXTEND AIR FUEL SCREW

SCOTT S/S OIL FILTER

WORKS CONNECTION GUARDS

CHAIN: DID MX520

PRO TAPER CR “HI-BEND”

FACTORY CONNECTION SUSPENSION

SCOTTS/OHLINS STEERING DAMPNER

BRIDGESTONE 201/202

ALL HONDA FLUIDS: HP4 10W/40W ENGINE OIL

HP TRANNY OIL 80W / 85W

per Troubleshooting

Bike won’t start after a crash

Pilot too lean

Idle set too high

Improper starting procedure

Bike wants hot start button

Bike runs on or won’t idle down when throttle is chopped

Idle set too high

Air leak intake or engine

Pilot too rich (when bike is hot)

Bike won’t start when cold outside

Pilot jet too lean

Air filter is over-oiled

Motor oil too thick for temperature

Bike sputters/won’t clean out at high RPM

Main jet too rich

Air filter is over-oiled

Spark plug has debris on electrode

Bike coughs and stalls in slow turns

Pilot too lean

Idle set too low

Valves set too tight

Decompressor is set too tight

Bike hesitates or bogs over deep whoops or G-outs

Float level too low

Carb vent tubes blocked

Main jet splash shield not installed

Float level too high, gas is trapped in vent tubes (install T-vents)

Bike starts but won’t take throttle without sputtering

Pilot jet too rich

Water in fuel

Debris in main jet

Bike suddenly starts sputtering/gas flows from vent tubes

Stuck float check valve

Debris in gas or carb

Bike runs hot/feels slow and flat on straights

Main jet is too lean

Fuel octane low, causing detonation

Bike coughs and stalls when you wick open throttle

Needle too lean

Slide cutaway too lean

Pumper circuit blocked or too lean

http://www.factoryconnection.com/index2.htm

BASIC SUSPENSION SET-UP

FORKS

When installing your forks torque the triple clamp pinch bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications (generally 15 - 16 foot lbs.) After you have installed the front wheel and slide the axle through, push down on the handlebars a few times to insure the axle lugs are seated squarely on the axle before tightening the axle pinch bolts. Improper installation can cause binding in the forks and harshness/stiffness in fork action.

RIDERSAG

Measurement A : Place bike on a stand, wheels un-weighted;

measure from the left inside fender bolt to a point on the rear axle.

Measurement B : With the bike off the stand, place the rider w/gear on

the bike in a normal riding position with feet barely touching the ground. Have someone measure between the same two points as before.

• Measurement A - Measurement B

Remember these are only “General” recommendations. Different riding styles, tracks and manufactuer brands may vary these set-ups. However, listed below is a good starting point to choose from:

125-650cc ..... 100-120mm

Too much rider sag indicates you must increase pre-load to the spring by turning the Spring/Pre-load Adjuster clockwise. (decreases rider sag measurement).

Too little rider sag indicates you must decrease pre-load to the spring by turning the Spring/Pre-load Adjuster counter clockwise. (increases rider sag measurement).

FREESAG

Measurement C : With the bike off the stand and the rider off the bike; push down on the back end and let the bike come up by itself. Measure between the same two points as before.

Measurement A - Measurement C (Generally 25 - 35mm)

If you set your rider sag and your free sag does not fall within the recommended range; a spring change may be needed.

HINT: Less than 25mm generally indicates a stiffer spring is needed and more than 35mm indicates a softer spring is needed.

NOTE: 1" = 25.4 mm

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Burned and kelstr recommend tearing the top end down and cleaning out the cylinder, replacing pistons rings and putting ot back together dry.

If you decide to do this, make sure they didnt fire the bike up in the shop before you got it or you will be wasting your time.

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Oh Jeez, not the super hot-tip dry break in thing again. Mr. Smith is right that it would be a waste of time if the shop fires it up first, and my opinion is it's the dumbest crap I've ever read.

All the intellectualizing in the world would ever make me do that to a brand new bike. Good Lord.

Mines got over 50 hrs, it doesn't smoke, doesn't burn oil, and it's compression has been perfect at 15,30 and 50 hours.

There are no 'well known facts' that this magical procedure has any value whatsoever.

It's proponents have people believing that it works in superbikes, nikasil liners,chrome liners,you name it and it's the hot set-up. Doug

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Just installed my unibikers last night and used the link you posted for the installation. Perfect instructions and I would highly recomend the unibikers guards. The installation took around 1 hour and if I had ever done anything like this before in the past I could have done it in 30 minutes or less. Thanks for the recomendation.

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