2006 DR650 Air Box Help

Hi to all..

I got my DynoJet kit and 14T front sprocket from Jesse today. I want to put it in this weekend and am hoping for some guidance on dissassembly. I did the kit in my other older bike so I know basically what to do once I get everything apart but I am hoping someone here can give me the walk through on removing the airbox on this monster. After first glance, it appears that it will come out from the side but that sounds too easy. Also this bike has a choke cable not just the pull lever so I am unsure how that comes off. I am comfortable wrenching but I don't want to dissasemble 52 things and find out I could have done it with three bolts. Any advice, help, links to help, or common pitfalls to avoid would be great.

Thanks for all the help to date,


there are three bolts that hold the airbox to the frame, then the clamp that holds the plenum to the carb, and a hose that will have to be removed from the airbox for it to slide out the side of the airfilter access cover. as far as the carb goes, you really don't have to fully remove it from the bike, you can leave the cables all intact, drill the idle screw plug out and the rest is a piece of cake.

Yep... Like BrianWheelies said....

1st get a real fat screw driver that fills the entire screw head--No strippers!

Slide the old box out from the left side after removing the clamps on the carb and the 3-4(?) bolts...

Got to pull off the crank case breather tube 1st...Once inside take that Anti-Backfire screen and make a frisbee out that......

The carb comes off real easy.. I took mine off so I won't lose any of those tiny parts from the rejet... Watch out for the cheap ass plastic choke bolt(?) that connects the choke to the carb. You can strip it by looking at it real hard.. I was Sooooooo easy when putting it back in... be sure the threads go in REAL smooth if it won't turn in all the way easy; Back it out and start over... Don't even think about putting a wrench on there !

Other than that ,, took me about 6 hours and took my time,,it was raining....

One gasser was there is a tube that goes nowhere from the carb....gas overflow I think...so don't freak it you got one extra......

Don't go ape shi* on the air box hole... just open it up and take out that stupid tube thing,,, unless you want to run under water,,way under...

Take a look in my garage for the K&N filter and open air box,,,I'll put my pre filter on when it gets dry in Virginia...... Remember....easy does it....

PM me if you got more questions or needs a picture or two.....

Later Gator!! :thumbsup:

you don't need to remove the airbox, just to do jetting, you can remove the carb with it still in place no prob.

now, if you want to, -modify the airbox, thats different, but I would not suggest you do that do a dr650. just removing the snorkel, changes the airflow enough to need jetting changes, and you will lose a little bottom end by opening up the airbox.


Your bike looks great. It's crying out for a DRZ250 rear light though! ;-)

removing the snorkel alone does not require rejetting. With the carburetor, I loosened the rubber thingies on each side of the carb and twisted the carb - to work on it's top from the gear shift side of the bike and to work on it's bottom from the brake pedal side of the bike.

You might find while trying to unscrew the 2 screws on top of the carb(diaphram) that no matter how strong you are - the screws will be stripped by the screwdriver. If shit I mean this happens you will need to buy a set of "easy outs", drill a hole in the stripped screws, and wind in the "easy out" to get the screws out ( hardware or auto store)

take off black diaphram and the needle, and spring - adjust the E clip on the needle OR install the E clip onto the new needle(dynojet or alike). put the needle with E clip on it and the spring back into the diaphram making sure the needle fits DOWN into the hole ALL THE WAY.

(First thing after removing the seat, the fuel hose and fuel tank - is to loosen the carb drain screw to drain the fuel out of the carb the screw head is facing out on the chain side of the bike and is located on the carb). Do the drain screw back up.

The 2 screws on the bottom of the carb will come out fairly easy but use the perfect screw driver and becareful not to strip them.

once you've got the carb bowl off the bottom of the carb, simply remove the float bowl if it didn't already fall out and then unscrew old main jet and screw in new main jet and put everything back together.

I hope this helps a bit.

I stripped a float bowl screw trying to remove it while the carb was still on the bike. The rubber intake mounting makes it too spongy to apply enough pressure with the screwdriver. I'd remove the carb first.

I didn't have an "easy out" so I used small vice grips to remove the stripped screw. I had to grind away (w/ dremel) a small amount of the housing around the screw to get the vice grips on it though.

After the float bowl screws it was a breeze though.

Also, replace the philips head float bowl screws with hex head screws from the hardware store. They're much easier to work w/ in the future.

just use an impact driver on those tuff screws, $10 bucks at autozone. Just a light tap from a hammer and they always work for me.


Tanks Mayner on the comp! Are you tellin' me the 250 rear light will fit on there dude-SNAP!---Looks like uncle Jesse has them..

Man that box is a SMASH! You can get a 12 pack and a small child in there! Or enough to keep your buddies quad runnin',,, ohhh bad :thumbsup:

Dig that pipe too! Whats FMF stand for? Nothing I can post here comes to mind-(he,he,he)

What's up with taking out the float? I didn't have to Jack with Dat!

Dude the main jet is the big fat one in the center(see picture of 400DR carb).

Did I miss something? It runs good,,plugs look right. And don't know about the loss of power on the low end by opening up the air box,,,Burned would know 'bout it.

See this link for 400 example;


Zuk does use some cheesie screws uhh?Next thing is to replace the "Death-Wings" Seems the pirelli's are alot of $$$---worth it??????

The Pirelli tires are a good choice if you're mainly going to be on the road. I haven't had the bike in the dirt since it was a week old. All street since. I will probably go back to the Trailwings after these. I do mostly freeway miles and the Trailwings seem to handle the rain grooves better.

That top-box comes in real handy. Comes off at the push of a button. I'm assuming you have already checked out My Garage. Did you see the pics of the DRZ tail light? 40 bucks and it's a direct swap.

I have no idea what FMF "really" stands for. F My Female? :thumbsup:

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