how to adjust susp.

i was wondering if my suspention is blown or if it needs adjusting. It is really boncey but doesnt bottom. how do i adjust this. i just got the bike its an 01 yz125

im no good at suspension stuff.. but i think you need to stiffen your rebound?

On the rear shock there is a clicker in the bottom of the shock.You will need a very long screwdriver to get to it. It is between the linkage and the swing arm. On the front forks You should look at the manual. I had an 01 and the rebound I think was on the top of the forks. If this doesn't help you probably need it re valved. It may be blown :thumbsup:

Have you had your suspension serviced? Fresh fluids makes a huge difference.

i was wondering if my suspention is blown or if it needs adjusting. It is really boncey but doesnt bottom. how do i adjust this. i just got the bike its an 01 yz125

Since its an 01 and you just got it; if you got the manual with it (I hope), compare the settings on the bike to what the manual states for starting (assuming the suspension wasn't revalved earlier; in that case there should be a sticker or the like on the shock showing its initial settings). Could be the previous owner just has things out of whack. Then go from there.

If its close the the factory settings its likey in need of servicing.

First off figure out the last time your shock and forks were serviced. If you are not the OG owner of the bike and had it for over a year and have ridden it weekly its DUE :eek:

Start by figuring out when it was serviced. If it needs a service and you are gonna send it out consider Enzo racing first. Enzo is hands down the best in the industry when it comes to KYB's. :bonk::thumbsup: Absolutely worth the extra coin to ship to Cali. You could have a full factory works motor in your bike, but if the suspension is clapped out then you might as well be on a 50. When you describe your bike bein squishy that makes me think that you need to service your stuff. Sounds like a blown shock bladder and wrong oil height in forks. If your current then:

1. Zero out your suspension. Turn all your clickers clockwise then turn back counter clockwise and count the number of clicks. If you get 22 clicks on compression then zero would be 11.

2. Always count back from full firm (clockwise) Suspension clicks are counted backwards from full hard. When someone says 11 clicks that means it was counted by turning counter clockwise from full hard.

3. Zero out rebound and compression the same way. Use this as a start point and make your adjustments from there.

4. Older KYB forks comp is on the bottom and rebound is on the top. Shock= comp is on top and rebound is on the linkage. Make adjustment in 2 clicks at a time.................GO RIDE :thumbsup:

First off figure out the last time your shock and forks were serviced. If you are not the OG owner of the bike and had it for over a year and have ridden it weekly its DUE :lol:

Start by figuring out when it was serviced. If it needs a service and you are gonna send it out consider Enzo racing first. Enzo is hands down the best in the industry when it comes to KYB's. :cool::prof: Absolutely worth the extra coin to ship to Cali. You could have a full factory works motor in your bike, but if the suspension is clapped out then you might as well be on a 50. When you describe your bike bein squishy that makes me think that you need to service your stuff. Sounds like a blown shock bladder and wrong oil height in forks. If your current then:

1. Zero out your suspension. Turn all your clickers clockwise then turn back counter clockwise and count the number of clicks. If you get 22 clicks on compression then zero would be 11.

2. Always count back from full firm (clockwise) Suspension clicks are counted backwards from full hard. When someone says 11 clicks that means it was counted by turning counter clockwise from full hard.

3. Zero out rebound and compression the same way. Use this as a start point and make your adjustments from there.

4. Older KYB forks comp is on the bottom and rebound is on the top. Shock= comp is on top and rebound is on the linkage. Make adjustment in 2 clicks at a time.................GO RIDE :thumbsup:

:bonk::thumbsup::eek::p Thanks so much, I have had these questions for a LONG time....thanks for the answers...now I will ball up and go play with my suspension. :lol:

I would nominate this as the best post I have seen on here... :worthy:

Suspension is like jetting kinda, once you mess with it a couple of times it gets easy. :bonk: Setting up suspension should be the abslolute priority on a bike. Doesn't matter how fast it can go if you cant get it to handle. :thumbsup: Oh yeah unless your Robby Knievel :thumbsup:

No need to ship out just to have your suspension serviced. Its just changing the fluids not re-valving.

how long do you think a service on bolth front and back will take. at my local dealer labor is 60 bucks an hour.

The question here is if you are mechanical and don't mind workin on your stuff. No sweat if your not, Stewart said he does even know how to change a spark plug :thumbsup: If you like to wrench then do the forks yourself. Plus you will get a better understanding of how stuff works and should look. The shock is tricky and you really need some pricey tools to do it. Absolutely make sure that you get a flat rate cost on suspension service, DO NOT have it serviced if they want to charge an hourly rate. Any quality suspension service will always flat rate. Should be around $75-100 for shock, $75-100 for forks. This should include any parts and oil. If your shock is clapped out then it may cost a little more, if you need a new bladder and stuff.

If you are gonna take your forks out to bring to the shop, then you are halfway thru servicin them yourself....We can help walk you thru it if your gonna try it :thumbsup:

so how do i do this i really want to start working on my stuff myself but i cant just rip stuff apart and try and figure out where it goes the stuff doesnt even bottom out on me its just really really squishy like when i brake and stuff

Well first make sure you got a really clean work area with some room to move around. Make sure your usin METRIC wrenches so you don't round nothin.

1.With your forks still in the clamps or secured another way loosen the top caps.

2. With the forks completely out of the clamps leaned against a bench remove the top cap. Top tube should want to slide down, thats OK. Just be careful to support everything or you will have a mess.

3.With a box wrench wedge it between the springs and the nut you see under the top cap. Skinnier box wrench is way easier. You want damage the spring so you can use some pressure.

4.While holdin the top cap with a ratchet and the nut underneath with a box wrench. Remove top cap. REMEMBER the order of the parts on top of the fork spring for installation.

5.Remove spring and parts and set on clean newspaper, they will drip and fork oil is nasty crap to celan up.

6.Dump out old oil, piston rod will probably come out at this point. Remove rod and set on paper.Pump piston back and forth a bunch of times to get all the oil out. Drain all of it.

7.Clean all parts and inspect.Get ready for install

8.USE high quality fork oil 2 quart bottles. I like Pro Circuit or Enzo's Kayaba. First choice is Enzo's. You can buy PC from Rocky mountain or Enzo's from them(Enzo) direct only.

9. Buy a metric ruler or I recomend Motion Pro's Fork oil guage-$20 or so. Way woth it if you are gonna do this yourself from now on. Call motion Pro or Chapparal, or maybe your bike shop if there any good. Don't pay more than $30.

10.Compress forks and fill with oil to the top.Pump rod up and down and bleed out air the oil will settle down.Tap lower tube gently(Not with METAL) to get out all air bubbles. Keep filling till you get about 5 inches from the top and have bled out all the air.

11.Since your suspension feels soft/squishy I would set oil at 90MM from top. If you use Motion Pro's guage its self expalnatory. With a ruler you will measure from the very top of the fork tube to where the oil is.Forks must be compressed.

12.Once the level is right put everything back together in the correct order.Make sure the nut under the top cap is tight.Tighten top cap when fork is secured in clamp........Your done!!!!

PM me so this thread doesn't get too long if I missed somethin :thumbsup:

i think im gunna try this are there gunna be a ton of little parts to worry about. thanks uve been a great help

No= Top cap, Washer/spacer on top of spring, spring, piston rod. Thats pretty much it. Since you are doin this you may just want to change your fork seals while your at it. You would be halfway there :thumbsup:

You don't have to if there not leaking, but it would suck to have them leak a month later. If you ride everyweek then you should change fork oil at least every 3 months.

1.With your forks still in the clamps or secured another way loosen the top caps.

You must loosten the top tripple clamp bolts to loosten the fork cap. Seen mant rounded fork caps from trying that.

im kinda confused my local dealer said there could be no more oil left in the shock or fork if its squishy but then wouldnt it bottom out?

The shock is not bad at all to work on. The tools needed are very minimal. MX tech has instructions on the procedure. It is not a big deal to change the seal head and add fresh oil.

It woudl get expensive buying a nitrogen tank and charging hoses. Most shops charge 10 to refill a shock.

well i have decided i am going to start the tast of rebuilding my forks next weekend what are the tools i will need. also thank u dunecj2a for all of ur help

well i have decided i am going to start the tast of rebuilding my forks next weekend what are the tools i will need. also thank u dunecj2a for all of ur help

No sweat man :thumbsup:

Metric box wrenches and sockets. You'll have to make sure you have a 15 and 17mm open end. Go back a couple messages and I have the tools you need. If you are gonna do your seals then that will require a special tool. Are you plannin on swappin them out? PM me if your gonna swap them out and I'll walk you thru it.

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