axle blocks .


So many companies make aftermarket axle blocks im suspicious

if the stock ones are totally accurate for wheel alignment.

about to replace my chain and sprockets this weekend want

to know if the 25 bucks for Ride axleblocks are worth it so that

i know im dead on alligned.

where does the 4 finger rule come into play where along the swing arm ?

I bought the Zip TY ones for nothing more than bling, I think the stock ones are fine but if you want to spend the money, Im happy with mine. As far as the chain adjustment goes, I keep mine to where I can get 3 fingers between the chain and swingarm at the rear of the rubber slider while on the stand. Hope this helps.

transworld motocross online had a really good article about Benchmarking your chain adjustment here,13190,1127654,00.html

to use a tie down between the exhaust and swing arm to compress the suspension till the counter shaft sprocket, pivot hole on the swingarm and the axle hole are all lined up in a straight line. then adjust your chain and measure from the axle block to the end of the swing arm on both sides to make sure its straight,

but then measure from the top of the swing arm to the chiain rivit and use that measurment as your benchmark.. i guess that would work.

but you need to know how much sag on the chain though.

First thought that comes to mind - READ THE MANUAL

You have to count from the rear forward. Opposite of the other brandx japanese bikes on the market. They are very accurate the way they are designed.

Most of the aftermarket axle blocks have an extension on them which allows the axle to sit back in the slot, but have the bolts run in short, making them less likely to become bent. It also often allows quicker gear changes because the blocks can be flipped long side/short side, and then the adjuster bolts won't have to be moved as far.

The blocks can be as accurate as they want to be, but you still line them up with the mark on the swing arm. If you suspect the alignment, check it.

I have the GYT-R axle blocks on my ride. I like them because the are longer on one end then the other, that way I can change sprokets and not have a mile of adjustment bolt sticking out. Plus they look great. I have the black ones.

Now there's some good advice, tweak your exhaust to check your chain. :thumbsup:

I have the procircuit ones. They are bigger so I you run both adjuster bolts as far in as possible.

dont yell at me .. im not transworld motocross, im not the master technician in the article. and im not the one strapping my exhaust to my swingarm..

im just the relay man. i dont think id want to put a tie down around my 700 dollar exhaust. soo.. im kind of with you on this one but if you look at the article. seems to work .

It's unnecessary. The manufacturer takes this into account and publishes their recommended chain slack. Simple as that. A couple pieces of advice. Anytime someone calls themselves a "Master Mechanic" look out. Never buy a bike from a guy who says he's "a mechanic".

IM sure the master machanic that trans world motocross is using lives up to his name and has the credentials and team race experience ..

Do you believe in Santa Claus too?

Magazines generally employ the clueless.

I wouldn't worry about the axle blocks. If the axle isn't sitting square the sprockets will wear on one side or the other.

If you are that concerned measure form the swingarm pivot to the axle. You can use drill bits or metal rods stuck through holes in the swingarm bolt and axles to measure.

Anytime someone calls themselves a "Master Mechanic" look out. Never buy a bike from a guy who says he's "a mechanic".
I'm a Master Mechanic (5 x over), got some kind of a problem with that?

Did you give yourself that title?

No, Norton-Villiers, Yamaha, Ford, the ASE, and Chevrolet did, in that order.

Since I'm here, I wonder what gives our "Master Mechanic" the idea that the swing arm slots are an absolutely dependable reference point for his measurement? I mean it should be, but what if it's off? To be aligned properly, the rear wheel must be pointed straight at the steering head centerline, and the chain run straight off the rear sprocket to the front, no matter what the swing arm says.

I'm a Master Mechanic (5 x over), got some kind of a problem with that?

Getting a little defensive aren't we? No one questioned your credentials or advice. You (or anyone else) may have all the certification in the world. It doesn't mean you're infallable, it doesn't mean you're not. I'm licensed by the US DOT as an airframe and powerplant "mechanic". Doesn't mean shiite, nor does it mean that my axle is always perfectly aligned (though the Pro Circuit blocks really help). My subjects cost about $45M a piece. Doesn't mean I know it all. It just means my mistakes (can) cost a lot more. BTW, I would venture to say most highly trained automotive mechanics recieve more and better high tech training than the average aircraft "mechanic". Regardless, compressing your swingarm/shock to check your chain tension is just stupid, and amounts to nothing more than (questionable) page filler in a magazine.

Then should no one buy a bike from you? I wouldn't give such advice.

Incidently, for anyone who's curious, I cannot say that I ever felt as if any of my certs put a single dime in my pocket, although I think my CCNP helped me get the job I have now.

Everyone who ever bought a bike from me got a damn good bike. And I'm careful never to brag about (having been) a mechanic. :thumbsup:

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